@clubairth1

So the knock sensor code is P0328 and i replaced both knock sensors not too long ago and the code stayed.

and pending is P0300 because the pcv valve that i just replaced! snapped in the same exact spot AGAIN.. this is the 4th pcv valve i replaced...

and yes the car was in the air when only one wheel was spinning
and the transmission fluid i filled up and went through every gear while filling once car was warmed up.
the old fluid was only a little darker, no metal bits or grim or any other indications.

and the battery voltage is stable hasnt moved.

and the same transmission fault code remains once i start driving it pops up P1643.

I also have a cold air intake and im running only cats, rest of the exhaust is deleted. I assume this is why the plastic pcv keeps snapping (i ziptied it together for now).

 

If you changed the knock sensors (Both of them?) and you still have the code then the problem was NOT the knock sensors. Do you see how I am using the codes to troubleshoot the problem?
This now points to something other than the sensor like wire harness damage as the new sensors are throwing the same code as the old knock sensors.

Again was the car level and NOT on ramps? It must be level to check the fluid. And again and again we need actual numbers and codes to help. Stating the battery is good or the fluid level is good is of no help at all. What was the transmission fluid temperature when you checked the level? Did you change the pan and filter and sealing sleeve as needed?

What are the NUMBERS??

Battery voltage - key off and engine running. What does the voltage do after the engine is started?

Transmission sealing sleeve leaks can put fluid inside the wires themselves which can then travel to the TCM causing additional problems. If this is happening replacing the TCM won't help. What does the sealing sleeve look like in your car? It's hard to get to and I usually use my hand or a clean rag to check if anything it wet up in that area. You need to unscrew this connection and inspect it.

Have you done this?

We have seen some terrible repairs in this area too like silicon gobbed on and the sleeve mashed into place but not fully seated.
Another good thread about P1643 and do focus on the fact you probably don't have a good enough scanner as your car most likely also has U or network errors because of the TCM problem.
P1643 CAN Bus Error's

Code P0300 is a random misfire code not a PVC code?

With code P0328 have you read this thread and all the possible causes? Note replacing the sensor was last suggestion in the factory workshop manual.
I don't think you have anything wrong with the sensor but take a look and do some more troubleshooting as laid out in that thread.
Knock Sensors

I think you can see what a mess it is to let a car decline with multiple problems? They interact with each other and complicate the troubleshooting.

To recap as I am getting lost?
You still have codes and they are;
P0300
P0328
P1643

Anything else?
.
.
.

 

Yes I do see how your using the codes, I apologize for not using them as much as before. As for the knock sensors (Bank 1 P0328) went away once i found out the one i bought was producing no voltage or "ohms" from the sensor itself, replaced with a new sensor (from junkyard) code is gone.

As for the transmission fluid I did have the entire car up on jacks and level, I did not check the temp. I started by dumping all the trans fluid out for hours & than started pumping transmission fluid into the fill hole while the jag was off and than once that started to spill, we started the jag (waited a little bit to warm up) &. continued pumping, until it would start dripping & would than shift into R > N > D > 2-3-4 & back around all while pumping trans fluid until it would not stop spilling out. Plugged the fill bolt and tightened it. also unplugged the one sensor on the back of the trans and sprayed the sensor and two electrical components on the trans with MAF cleaner and wiped it dry.
than a while of driving afterwards the P1643 code went away but the symptoms of rough idle and rpms flying above and loss of power remained. after multiple & long drives after the P1643 & (Transmission Fault Light) never came back. Also (Restricted Performance) went away along with the P0328 Code and only comes back when the misfiring happens. vvv

So now all that remains is about multiple misfire codes that change & fluctuate as I turn off and turn on the car and drive:

Before drive:
P0300
P0304
P0305
P0306. <(all pending)
P1316

After drive:
stored:
P0300
P0304
P0305
P1313
P1314
P1316
pending:
P0300
P0304
P0305
P1316
P1000

I believe this is all coming from the cracked PCV valve thats almost off because (this being the 4th PCV valve thats snapped on me in the same exact location) the misfires have always only come around when these have snapped on me causing a vacuum leak.
So I have ordered a new one it is currently being shipped ands will take 2-5 buisness days & I will report back upon the misfiring incident.

thank you for all your help I very much appreciate it and so for everyone else

 

OK your making progress!
Very glad to see the transmission code go away BUT without measuring the fluid temperature your fluid level is suspect. Fluid level has to be correct or that will cause additional problems. So I think you need to recheck it when you can.

You sprayed out the connector at the back of the transmission but was it oily? Again this is a well known leak point and not many of them stay dry until you replace the sleeve with the updated O-rings on it. So cleaning the oil off was good but it does not fix the problem. As we know the longer this connection is wet the more likely the fluid will travel back up into the wire harness. You DON'T want to fight that mess if you can avoid it!

Since you have history with the PCV problems that very well could cause those misfire codes too. We don't see much problems with the PCV stuff but you do mention it has been broken several times? Is it getting hit somehow?

So lets fix the PCV problem. Clear all codes. Drive car and report back. The misfire codes may point to plug and/or coil replacement but lets see what we got at first.
.
.
.

 

Alright hey, PCV came in today so I replaced it (Someone said I was tightening it too tight thats why it kept snapping). Disconnected the battery for several minutes. Connected battery and reset codes.
it sounded better but misfire codes came back.
I believe it may have to do with little to none back pressure? thats what someone told me.

Anyways I recorded a whole video of start up, rpm bounce, & under the car at the exhuast... you'll see what I mean

Also heres the codes that are present:
Stored
P0300
P0304
P0305
P0306
P1316
Pending
P0300P0304P0305P0306P1316P1000

Video:
https://youtu.be/tdL0JuXwzCc

@clubairth1

 

The videos are of no help. Again we must follow what the car is telling us. No the exhaust back pressure is not the problem.
Looks like the PVC code is fixed but with 6 out of the 8 cylinders throwing misfire codes and with the P1316 code which is another general misfire code.

See we have made good progress and now only have misfire codes.
With the age of the car have the plugs and/or coils been changed?
What about fuel filter? Have you measured the fuel pressure as weak fuel pumps can also feed into these types of problems.

One last thought? Can you pull a cam cover and take a look at the secondary timing chain tensioner? Just to make sure it's all intact?
.
.
.

 

So In response to @clubairth1
I've done the following:

• Fuel Pressure

Key Position: ON; Guage Reads 41-42

After 4 Minutes Reads 41-42.

Key Position: Engine Running; Needle Bounces Between 48-50, Quick Revs it by 3-4 psi it jumps up and than jumps below 48 by 3-4 psi, at 2-3 rpm its steady at 45-46 psi.

• Swap Coils

So I swapped Coils 5 to 7, 6 to 8, 4 to 2. Cleared codes drove around for a about an hour and sure enough yhe misfire codes moved to the new coil positions (7,8,2) so I replaced the faulty ignition coils. Drove for about 80 miles Road & Highway over the following couple days. No Misfire At All !!! Yay!!

:ic on_vp:

 

Very good job but I would replace ALL the coils and plugs at this time. You know they are at the end of their life.
Sure feels good to fix your car!
.
.
.