Hello all:

Just did a brake job on my 2004 VDP, per the instructions from Ed Dobernig on the following thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ice-how-61323/

Very helpful! Thanks so much Ed.

I thought I'd snap pictures along the way, and post here.

I used Zimmermann rotors. Made in Germany About $75 each on Ebay. I elected not to get the slotted and/or cross drilled rotors, since I heard that they could get noisy. Of course, if the ultimate performance is your goal, then your choice might be different.



For pads, I used Akebono ceramic pads (from Amazon). EUR1065 for the Front, EUR806 for the Rear. I've used these pads before--no noise, very low dust, and they last a long time. Love them.



I tackled the front first. Here, you can see the two (sets) of bolts that must be removed. I'd say removing the bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket was the hardest part of the job! Leverage is helpful, but there's only so much room in the wheel well.



But success at last! Here's the bracket removed:



To compress the pistons, I used my trusty Harbor Freight caliper service tool kit that I had from a previous project. Very handy, doesn't cost too much (I think less than $40), and is a must for doing the rear brakes.



Here it is in action. Of course, with dual pistons you'd have to do it twice, but it's a cinch with this tool.



On my car, the rotors slid right out. But I did see the washer on the rear rotors holding the rotor in place. From what I understand, those washers are there just for production line purposes, and are not needed so you can break them off without any worries.

Here's the front completed.



On to the rear brakes!

The rotors on the rear were still good, so I left them alone. Removing the caliper was uneventful, but to compress the piston, you must rotate them back in. I found the #7 disc to be a perfect fit.





The notch on the piston must be aligned with the pin on the brake pads, as shown below:



It required more effort to compress the rear pistons than the fronts.

The whole project took about 3.5 hours for me. The job is not too difficult, if you have the right tools.

Good luck!

 

Interesting pics,thanks.

According to JTIS they recommend replacing the caliper bolts every time.

Do mechs do this?

NO! They just look at the threads to see if the bolt is stretched and if not replace used bolt.

ie they use their common sense.

 

Really nice post Stanigu & kudos to Ed too.

Thanks so much for sharing

 

When I originally did this "How To", it was the first time working on a Jaguar and after I was done I thought, "I should write this up, because it's a little more complicated and why should a home mechanic have to learn the hard way?" Unfortunately I wasn't thinking ahead and taking any pictures. When I changed over my XF SC to ceramic pads, I wanted to document it to share and took pictures for my "How to Post" regarding brakes in the XF Forum.

Since your photos are such excellent illustrations would you mind if I edited them into the original "How To" post? I think it would be a nice improvement and help someone else in the future.

 

Of course, not a problem at all! Everything in one place is the best.

 

I started this job today, which turned into a major PITA as one of the caliper bolts snapped when I wast torquing it back. Naturally it snapped just at the caliper bracket so I had to get a bolt extractor tool.

The bolts are M8x22mm fine metric thread. I got some 25mm long ones from Lowes. Does anyone know Jag part number for these?

 

The correct torque according to JTIS21 for 2004 XJ without brembo brakes:

Caliper bracket bolts: 102Nm or 75 lb-ft
Caliper mouning bolts: 34Nm or 25 lb-ft
Wheel lug nuts: 125Nm or 92 lb-ft