Hey everyone the problem with my 2004 XJ8 is that the drivers door won't unlock with the remote but will work with the key. Once inside there is a momentary pause before the starter engages when the key is turned to start. Once started, with the headlights on, the overhead light by the mirror is on dimly. The right front parking light is dim and the directional flashes fast and a message is displayed stating the there is a problem with the repeater and light right side only. I fault traced the problem to low voltage (3.5v) at fuses F24 thru F28 in passenger junction fuse box. They are feed thru the switched system power relay #2 also in the passenger junction fuse box. The Electrical Guide says that this is a non-serviceable PCB relay. Does that mean I need to replace the complete fuse box? I need to do more diagnosis on the fuse box but need to pull it down to access the back. The strange part of all this is that it happens below 35 degrees and if the car warms up enough it fixes itself and everthing works as designed. Sorry for being long winded but I spent a hour fault tracing this and the more info the better the diagnosis. Thanks for any help. George.

 

Hello George. I hope you get this sorted out pronto. question: could the battery be on the way out- Low voltage can cause a number of problems.

 

I attended the NP04 (New Product 2004) training seminar and the subject of relays incorporated into the fusebox was addressed. If the relay fails, then the entire unit is to be replaced. You might disassemble it and repair it, but it was designed to be replaced.

Could just be a solder joint for the relay if temperature seems to be a factor?????

A repair center (dealer) will replace the unit, not repair it, but it's your car, so pull it apart to have a 'look-see'.

bob gauff

 

BigCat I checked the battery with an electronic battery tester that we use on the Volvo's for warranty claims it works on non-volvo batteries as well. Also while checking voltage when the problem was happening I connected a fully charged battery booster pack and there was no change in the voltage reading. The other fuses that are powered by switched system power relay #1 has 12v when the other fuses have 3.5.

Motorcarman as long as that relay is removable from the fuse panel I will take it apart and look over the solder joints. We have had a few solder joint problems on Volvos dating back to 1981. The problem was opposite in that when the relay heated up the joint would spread open causing a failure of the relay or module. Thanks for both responses. Saturday I will head back to the shop and check things out. I will report my findings. Luckily the car still is driveable. George.

 

Hey everyone well I fixed the electrical problem with my XJ8. As I suspected the relay in the interior fuse box was the problem. That relay know as the switched system power relay 1 & 2 feeds power to fuses F9,10,12,13 & 14 thru relay 1 and fuses F24, 25, 26, 27 & 28 thru relay 2. Both 1 & 2 are in the same relay. My problem was the 2nd side of the relay was only supplying 3.5V to the fuses F24- 28. The relay is soldered to the circuit board so the whole unit had to be replaced. I well attach a picture of the fuse box intact and taken apart to show the relay. Thanks for all the info. George

 

gdcont,

I am having similar weird electrical problems with my '05 VDP. The cigar/accessory ports don't work and my rear sunscreen won't raise. I checked all related fuses and they were all fine. The dealer (Woburn Foreign Motors) told me I needed a new boot fuse panel for $600+ which seems outrageous to me. I can swap the panel out myself fairly easily but I'm having difficulty locating a replacement.

a) Does it sound like I need a new panel and if not, are there other fuses in other panels I should be hunting down

b) If I do need a new panel I'd be curious to know where you picked yours up from.

Thanks in advance for your help! This is my 4th Jaguar and not even my '84 had this many electrical issues!

 

Wow Wakefield, I work in Wakefield. I'm not working tomorrow and I'll look at the wiring diagram and see if I can help you. I bought the fuse panel from americanautoparts1 on ebay. His feedback was good and I had no problem with him or the part. I will post what I find out tomorrow. George.

 

That would be great, thank you!

americanautoparts1 has a used one for $265 shipped which is more than a brand new one from jaguarmerriamparts.com. There is another new one on E-Bay for about $150 US but it's in the UK. Fortunately I can live without a cigar lighter for a week or two while it makes it's way across the pond. I'd prefer to just solder a new module onto the board but I guess that's out. If I have time tomorrow I may pop it out to see if there is anything glaringly wrong with it that a bit of solder might fix. One can hope.

 

Looking at the wiring if both front and rear cigar and power outlets don't work then it could be the rear power dist. fuse box because the switching power to the relays are powered internally thru the dist. fuse box. The sun shade is powered thru passenger junction fuse box fuse 7. Fuse 7 wire branches off with two wires going to the rear power dist. fuse box and one wire going directly to the sun shade. I would check the fuse at F7 in the passenger junction fuse box. That supplies switched power for two relays in the rear power dist fuse box and the power shade. Good luck George.

 

F7 it was! Boy was that fun to get to! I think there is another fault in the sunscreen mechanism as it just clicks when the button is pressed but the cigar lighters and even the XM radio device appear to be working now! I did something bad but I'm hoping it was the increased load of the XM that required it. It had a 5A fuse, I replaced it with a 5A, hit the sunscreen button and it blew. I put a 10A fuse in and it seems to be holding now. I know this can cause issues but I'm wondering if the addition of the XM module increased load on the circuit. No smoke so I'm hopeful! Thanks for your assistance, saved me from buying an entire fuse panel at least for now!

 

Sticking rear sun blind is a common fault.

Try pulling the blind up with your fingers while the wife presses the switch.

 

usasnq
That's good news, glad to help. George

 

I forgot to ask did Woburn Foreign Motors actually look at the car or just guess from your description? George

 

I think I may have broken the blind when I first got the car. I heard they stick, wiggled it, heard a snap and that was that until now. It pulls out of the back dash but I may screw around with it tomorrow.

WFM I think did the same thing I did, replaced the fuse with a 5A and it blew on them at which point they said my fuse panel was shot which I'm now guessing is not the case. I'm a bit nervous upping the fuse to 10A but so far it's been fine. They also said I needed a new suspension compressor due to a sagging front end in >30 degree weather which they did for about $1100. Next cold snap upon it's return, front end on the ground again, back to WFM. They then said my passenger side strut was shot and quoted me $1600 to fix it. I told them forget it and they allowed me the option of replacing it with an Arnott replacement + labor which I agreed to. Right strut replaced, car returned. Next cold snap, you guessed it, front end on the ground. Back to WFM where they told me my driver's side strut was hosed. Back to WFM and they replaced it with another Arnott free of charge. They basically replaced my entire front end suspension, part by part over the course of a month and a half. It hasn't been cold since I received it back but I'm praying for everyone's safety that the front end stays up next cold snap. I have trouble trusting their diagnostic capabilities at this point. Any shop can replace parts one at a time and eventually find the culprit. Heck, I can do that! I used to go to Lee in Wellesley for my previous Jaguars and they were great. Very few repeat repairs, always had a loaner available, open on Saturdays, great diagnostic team etc but since they shut down I'm left with WFM and Don at Custom in Wakefield. I like to go to Don but he is usually too busy to get me in. I may try Herb Chambers in Sudbury as I was told many of their mechs moved there when Lee was sold.

 

Well I think I now have an idea of what happened. The motor for the sun blind was restricted (Arm stuck under the back dash cover) thus blowing the 5A fuse when the button was pushed. Unfortunately I had already broken the sliding clips that raise it in a previous attempt based on the 'wiggle it' advice I had found when I first researched it. I guess I wiggled it too hard. No wonder no one lets me pet their rabbits. Anyhoo, now that it's free, just the arms raise. Swell. Even sweller, if WFM had replaced the fuse box it wouldn't have fixed any of these issues imo. Amazing that someone that's owned the car for about two months can figure this out yet WFM went 0 for 2 on diagnosing my pretty common issues. Price of admission I guess.

 

I was able to fashion new clips for the sunblind and it now works perfectly. I took the old clips off, drilled out the rivet on the hinge, carved a new t shaped plastic slider from a scrap storm door seal I found and using a small nut and bolt attached it to the end cap. Got lucky there as these clips are near impossible to find new or used. I should have snapped a picture of them but I was in a hurry to get it reassembled. I think I am now at 100% option wise!