was looking for a cai and euro toys and other places were ridiculous in pricing
so I ordered $15 3 inch 90 degree elbow off of ebay
one 3 inch to 4 adapter silicone coupler and one 3* inch coupler for $5 each (*get a 3 inch to 3.5)
and $5 for quick set epoxy

1. removed factory intake tubing compared it to the new elbow by laying it overtop of the factory mine was about 1 .5 inchs longer than the factory pipe so I trimmed off 1.5 inchs off the end to make it match in length

2. install the silicone couplers onto new intake and install it into the vehicle.

this is were I ran into a problem the intake housing is 3.5 inch so my 3 inch coupler wouldn't work.
to fix this issue I took the end piece that I had cut off the new pipe and installed it into the intake piping it was a very snug fit, so taps from a hammer helped it in. (make sure to remove maf)
I then epoxyed around the outside to insure a good seal.

I had to trim another 1.5 off to make up for the added piece to the intake.

so please order a [3 inch to 3.5 adapter silicone coupler] to avoid this issue

3. mark where 1/2 hole need's to be and drilled a hole for ccv .


4. on factory intake cut the ccv nub off of the factory intake and epoxy it to the new intake allow it to fully cure


reinstall and enjoy



if enough interest ill have my local cnc shop fabricate direct fit piping with tig welded ccv nub with color of choice silicone joints with one piece chrome clamps for under $100

 

I am intrigued by what you have done. It looks good.

What type of pipe did you buy on Ebay?

I would not damage my original, however, if I build this.

 

It worked out great but completely understand able, I've been trying to find a ccv connection that would fit without removing one from the factory haven't had any luck as of yet local cnc shop can make the ccv conection for $20 plus cost of tig welding it to the piping

 

I will try for a pipe with some sort off connector already welded in.

I have an oil catch can in the low load breather pipe so I only have to get a pipe that will between its outlet side into whatever the inlet on the intake pipe is.

 

I followed your example Jth3rd. Parts finally came in and fitted my version today.

No way could I get the pipe to fit in the airway leading into the filter housing. I had to use a coupler.

It was a tough job getting the 3" coupler over the airway pipe into the filter housing.
I had to use a heat gun to soften the coupler and a fair bit of effort to push on the airway pipe.

Also drilled a hole in tube to take a right angle norma connector that I adapted to fit very snuggly into the hole.

Since I had modified the low load breather pipe already it was very simple to attach hose to norma connector.

Its not a cold air intake as I have not changed the filter or the position of the filter but its a smoother path for the
airflow.

At a later date I might tackle the "cold air intake" part.

Probably cost me around $35.

I do need to get clamps that are a better fit!

 

Went for a drive this morning. Some people say they do not notice any difference to the sound of the SC however I certainly did!

On full throttle much louder whine. Trundling up the road no difference.

I think I feel better response but it maybe the Jag is having a good day!

Btw I did modify the end of the stainless steel pipe to an oval to better match
the cast intake shape.

Also think this is a better pic.

Next step is to insulate the pipe. I was somewhat surprised how hot it got. So next pic will show it insulated when I get the product I ordered.

Will end up costing a bit more with the insulation.

 

Installed the heat shield wrap around the improved flow air intake tubing.

Does not look as "pretty" however if it can help cut down on the heat build up
I will be pleased.

Before the wrap the aluminum pipe was too hot to touch if the car had been standing still with the engine running.

I am also waiting on an adjustable thermostat control for my two 6" pusher fans as I need them to operate at a
lower temperature than the main radiator fan sender/sensor.

 

This subject was thrashed several years ago. The air in an uninsulated pipe will only pick up around 1.5 degrees F of heat, so insulation is not needed.

 

Granted the smooth aluminum pipe will not transfer as much heat to the air as the stock corrugated pipe however the actual transfer of heat depends upon the air flow.

The slower the airflow the greater the xfer of heat to the air. The faster the airflow less heat transfer per unit measure of air.

The 1.5 degrees F of heat you quote what air flow rate is that for?

 

Pretty much the usable power band of the engine. The air just doesn't spend enough time in the pipe to pick up significant heat.

 

You can always try ceramic coating the pipe. It'll at least look nicer.

 

I might do that BlackKat.

When I have the time I will conduct some heat tests myself. I have a Chemical Engineering background and although its been a very long time I do have a basic knowledge of the dynamics of fluid flow.

 

You might want to lookup the tests I ran and posted before.

Here is a abridged version
In stop start traffic, ceramic coating the pipe is a good thing.
On the track, not much difference

The issue is heat soak when stopped or constantly under 80kph (50mph)
The source of the heat is the exhaust manifolds. And the best thing to do all round is to ceramic coat which them removes as much of the heat source as possible.

Coating the intake tube is cheep and easy to do however. I ceramic coated mine in semi mat black primarily to give it an OEM look. There was not much difference in going ceramic as compared to powder coat so ill take a little help where I can get it.

If I was doing the valley hose id get the intake, coolers and exhaust manifold coated. Im not about to strip it down till I need to though. A new valley hose is waiting for the day in the parts bin.

Cheers
34by151

 

Quote 34by151 :"If I was doing the valley hose id get the intake, coolers and exhaust manifold coated. Im not about to strip it down till I need to though. A new valley hose is waiting for the day in the parts bin."

Can one do this with ceramic high heat aerosol spray or does it have to be done professionally?

I will be swapping out my supercharger, again, in maybe a couple of months and if I can spray components myself I will do that.

 

The ceramic coating process is very similar to powder coating
The surface is rock hard and wont chip it

I cant speak to the spray paint versions other than to say every one done on exhast ive seen has burnt off over time.

Id get it done properly as it not expensive to do

The only item that really needs doing is the exhaust manifolds, other than that it makes sense if the bits are off. Also from a looks point of view. If you want to save a few bucks powercoat the top end and ceramic the exhaust manafold
Cheers
34by151

 

So, would ordering a 4" elbow be a better idea? There's also the 3.5" option.

Thoughts?

 

I just did this mod...It was very easy to do...I ordered a 3 inch intake tube on ebay...The first one suggested above came from China crushed and 2 weeks waiting. I found one on ebay from California which was delivered intact ...I bought two 3" Spectre intake tube connectors red, blue, or black at Advance Auto for 8 bucks apiece. Spectre Intake Coupler 3-3/2.5 8772: Advance Auto Parts AND http://www.ebay.com/itm/262147365795...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The 3 inch coupler will go on the engine intake with a little dish detergent and water... The 3.5 coupler is a little to big to seal properly...Driiled a hole for the PCV hose...Cut the little circular lock off it and pushed right into the tube...wrapped a little electrical tape around it to make a tight seal. Not much over an hour from start to finish!

 

How does it sound now?

 

Crushed from China! 2 week wait...4 days from Cali! Undamaged...

 

Cut the lock off and fit the pipe right into the tube where I driiled the hole...I could always epoxy the lock back on if I wanted to go back to stock...