Pull the latch and nothing at all. Someone said to remove the grill ovals with a blade? Can someone explain this? I do not want to break anything, thanks in advance.

 

Is the cable still attached to the pull lever?, sometimes they come off, and the lever does nothing. If it has, it's a lot easier to get it opened, just find the end of the cable and pull it with a pair of grips. Also, it might just need that little bit more of a pull, if, say, the cable has stretched or the lever has twisted or bent. Is the hood completely shut, or has one corner popped? there are 2 latches that hold it closed, but just one lever to release both. and sometimes, again, it will pop one, but just need that bit extra pull to release the other.

Not sure how to remove the grill ovals with the grill still in place, But, It might be possible to get at the catches from under the car, if you can get it on a ramp, remove the forward undertray, and get a light and a long screwdriver or pry bar and try to reach the latches from below. they really only need a tiny little bit of movement to pop.

 

Yes the ball was INSIDE the interior latch. I removed it from the latch and got some vise grips on there and the cable and sheathing pulled out together about 15 inches worth!! lol BUT the cable did slide nice and east in the sheathing so something is up at the latch point I believe.

 

Hi Badass,
Do you think the cable is stuck, broken, or the latch jammed? Does either side unlatch?

The routing of the cable up to the primary latch (LH) allows it to come into contact with the body and various brackets which can wear through the outer sleeve and allow water in and rust to form. It then swells and gets stuck in the sleeve.
Noting your description of it sliding freely once removed from the interior latch, is there any restriction on it at all or can you pull it all the way out?
I got lucky when it snapped on my X350 because it was only about 2 feet from the interior latch which was easily accessed by removing the road wheel and arch liner then cutting back the sheaf and using a pair of vice grips to release the latch.

If it has broken/detached at the latch end then I can't see any way to access it except through the front vent. The primary latch is also protected by a metal shroud to prevent access to the ajar sensor used by the alarm system, which is held in place with a screw on either side that could just be removed with a short torx bit in a mini spanner/ratchet wrench. I've had a look to try and work out how the grills but the only car I have to hand is my XJR which has the 07-10 facelift plastic grills. On that one there are at least two hex screws holding the plastic 'guides' to the rear of the surround (and likely some clips). If you remove the guides it may be the infill panels are just clipped in, but the part is different for the earlier style so it may be a completely different arrangement. Sorry. Maybe the pictures may help.

Note that I removed the splash shield that goes above the latches/headlamps to take these photos - they have a moulded piece that covers the front of the latches to prevent water ingress/access, but the plastic is pliable so you ought to be able to get around them.

[ edit ]
With the new forum software they have removed the thumbnail images and made them massive inline images which take over the page. Unfortunately that means I can't post the dozen or so images I took for you unless I shrink them to a resolution that makes the detail unviewable. If you want to see them please send me a private message with your email address and I will send them to you.

 

I found this photo online, it seems to show that the mesh grills and are held in place by the plastic shroud, which looks to be held at the top just by some push on clips, so in theory, if you push against the area of the clips, it "should " all pop inward.

 

Thank you for that detailed info. I am going to tackle this after the rear air shock goes in on Saturday. Want to be sure that is addressed before I invest more time.

 

Got it open. Used needle nose to hold the sheathing and grabbed the ball with vice grips and levered it against the needle nose. Was super hard but popped right open.

 

I am going to try the lube method since it is moving, can't hurt.

 

Excellent, OK you will probably have to buy and install a new cable set, although you could try lubricating the old one, but chances are as was mentioned before, there is some corrosion inside the cable, and for the price of a new set, it would be prudent to just change it.
but you are getting there.

See, one more problem ticked off the list, won't be long til you have fixed everything.

 

I had the reoccurring maf code, took it all apart the maf wire on one side was almost black, cleaned Her up and SO FAR running GREAT. Now I have to re charge the ac today and I am sure it is just a "leaked out from sitting" deal so I'll recharge and cross fingers,lol.

 

Now saggy head liner, A/C then paint & body.

 

When you have it squared away, price everything, then figure what % of the new price invested, verses what you have invested now. Makes me smile every time i drive either of mine, with just what i have, for what ive paid. Amazing to me

 

Wingrider, That's what I do with all my cars, I keep a spread sheet and note everything I buy or any work I have done to my cars.
On my 2006 XJR, I spent £6750 buying the car with 129,614 miles on it on 12th July 2017, and have to date spent another £1149.66.

1. A/C regas ( £50 )
2. Pollen Filter ( £12.44 )
3. Centre & R/H Air vents ( £19.87 )
4. Clear Wing Repeater lamps "R" Badges and Mud Flaps ( £171.35 )
5. Upstream O2 Sensor for Bank 1 ( £90 )
6. PCV Valve and Cigarette Lighter ( £57.40 )
7. Left rear ABS Sensor ( £40.60 )
8. Front Left Centre Parking Sensor ( £14.99 )
9. 2x Front Tyres Falken Anesis FK510 225/35/20 ( £328 )
10. Rear Discs & Pads ( £89.48 )
11. 20x Toyota Chrome Wheel Nuts ( £36.99 )
12. L/H/R Caliper ( £106.54 )
12. Battery Yuasa HSB019. ( £132 )

This doesn't include the cost of Road Tax at £555 per Year, MOT at £40 per Year ( if It passes ), or Fuel at....too scary to think about.
All the work I did myself, with the exception of the A/C Regas and the tyres, so Labour costs are £0. And that's exactly 1 year, 2 days and 2,970 miles since I bought the car. So percentage wise, I have a car that was at least £75,000 new and I have paid about 10% of that price and it's still a **** hot motor.

My last XJ8 sport 3.2, I had for 7 years, covered just 10,826 miles and spent £2300 over the 7 years, and that included the some Bodywork and Paint, parts for 6 services, and 6 tyres , 2 sets of fronts due to a bad steering rack which ate a pair of fronts. The rack at £177 to have reconditioned was the single most expensive part purchased over the 7 years.

So if you catch the faults and can do most of the work yourself, these cars are really not as expensive to run as people think, try doing the same with a BMW, or a Merc, or god forbid a Roller or a Bentley, I replaced the brake discs and pads all round on a Bentley once, and the parts alone were almost £1000.

 

Yes I do the same. So far. I called the buyer and told Him that He failed to mention the 1/4 panel and back door paint was bad as the rear bumper cover so He sent me $300.00 back towards body & paint so I only paid $2700.

2004 Jaguar XJR $2700.00.
Tow from VA to NJ $300.
One rear used Arnott bag $159.00.
One can of R-134 w/stop leak $8.00.
One "R" badge for Grill $7.00.
One set of "R" center caps for wheels $14.00.

Grand total as of July 16th is $3188.00.

Maf code ONLY seems to come on in extreme hot weather, yesterday ALL day no CE light. But if it's HOT it comes right on.
A/C works perfect, was down one can.
Now I ham having a totally bizarre shifting issue. Some days ALL is perfect then some times Ill get these strange "dip" in between shifts, yesterday it happened really HARD, I have paperwork He gave me from Jag and had the trans re flashed.
I am getting a howling sound from rear too and any speeds I am sure it's a wheel and or carrier axle bearing.

But overall She runs like a raped ape, last night My daughter and I destroyed a SS Camaro last night, it was Hilarious.