2004 XJR p0171 & p0174
#1
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In its relentless pursuit to annoy the crap out of me, my Jag threw P0171 and P0174 codes (both banks lean). Just when I thought all was in order, this thing refuses to step off the lift!
After going through a successful A/C recharge last night, the codes were thrown. Hooked up my SDD/IDS laptop pulled the codes, cleared them and came right back.
There has got to be a vacuum, and a substantial one at that. I must have broken something. Kept looking w/o success until I put my hand under the air box and felt something loose. Yeappers, here's my leak.
Going clean it with denatured alcohol, silicon glue the s**t out of it and hope for the best. Worst case, I will have to replace it.
Truly hoping to put her on the road tomorrow after 4 weeks on the lift.... this is what I have done:
- Radiator replacement
- Upper and lower heater hose replacement
- Heater core hose replacement
- Auxiliary pump replacement
- Drive belt replacement
- Engine cooling flush
- Oil sump gasket replacement
- Transmission cooler line replacement
- A/C recharge
- Oil/filter change
She is *truly* leak free now!!! She never really has been free of leaks since I got her last October.
Off to glue this thing on, put on the remaining trim bits on, wash her and get her ready for tomorrow.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/73688-2004-xjr-p0171-p0174-air1.jpg?dateline=1393187713)
After going through a successful A/C recharge last night, the codes were thrown. Hooked up my SDD/IDS laptop pulled the codes, cleared them and came right back.
There has got to be a vacuum, and a substantial one at that. I must have broken something. Kept looking w/o success until I put my hand under the air box and felt something loose. Yeappers, here's my leak.
Going clean it with denatured alcohol, silicon glue the s**t out of it and hope for the best. Worst case, I will have to replace it.
Truly hoping to put her on the road tomorrow after 4 weeks on the lift.... this is what I have done:
- Radiator replacement
- Upper and lower heater hose replacement
- Heater core hose replacement
- Auxiliary pump replacement
- Drive belt replacement
- Engine cooling flush
- Oil sump gasket replacement
- Transmission cooler line replacement
- A/C recharge
- Oil/filter change
She is *truly* leak free now!!! She never really has been free of leaks since I got her last October.
Off to glue this thing on, put on the remaining trim bits on, wash her and get her ready for tomorrow.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/73688-2004-xjr-p0171-p0174-air1.jpg?dateline=1393187713)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/73689-2004-xjr-p0171-p0174-air2.jpg?dateline=1393187713)
Last edited by Lagonia; 02-23-2014 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Typo
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ragman1171 (08-11-2014)
#2
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Hi, I am not familiar with the XJR intake, but my 04' XJ8 had a leak in between aluminum intake adapters where injectors are and the plastic plenum. I had to get seals from aftermarket company in Houston called Euromarque. I spoke with Ed Harrison.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x350-x358-xj6-xj8-xjr-28/xj8-intake-reseal-109043/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x350-x358-xj6-xj8-xjr-28/xj8-intake-reseal-109043/
#3
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Doubtful that any type of glue will hold in that scenario, joining thin edges of plastic together. Your best bet might be Gorilla tape. Comes in black, very tough and might even hold up longer than you'd think. Clean the surfaces with alcohol as you had planned, and that stuff gets a firm grip. Meanwhile you can pick up a salvaged replacement from ebay or a yard.
Good job on staying after it.
Good job on staying after it.
Last edited by SaturnV; 02-24-2014 at 11:36 AM.
#4
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check that any silicone you use is 'sensor safe'. I believe all the newer ones are these days, but back in the 80's/90's it was known to kill your 02 sensors if vapor from it was pulled into the intake.
Some call it an urban myth, but there were TSB's on it.
Not worth the risk imho.
*auto store silicone's I mean- I wouldn't use some home use stuff at all.
strange that that resonance chamber cracked, and interesting that there appear to be 5 of them on the R's! The engineers must have spent a lot of time tuning that intake sound.
Some call it an urban myth, but there were TSB's on it.
Not worth the risk imho.
*auto store silicone's I mean- I wouldn't use some home use stuff at all.
strange that that resonance chamber cracked, and interesting that there appear to be 5 of them on the R's! The engineers must have spent a lot of time tuning that intake sound.
Last edited by rosskuhns; 02-24-2014 at 02:03 PM. Reason: clarify
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meirion1 (02-24-2014)
#5
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check that any silicone you use is 'sensor safe'. I believe all the newer ones are these days, but back in the 80's/90's it was known to kill your 02 sensors if vapor from it was pulled into the intake.
Some call it an urban myth, but there were TSB's on it.
Not worth the risk imho.
*auto store silicone's I mean- I wouldn't use some home use stuff at all.
strange that that resonance chamber cracked, and interesting that there appear to be 5 of them on the R's! The engineers must have spent a lot of time tuning that intake sound.
Some call it an urban myth, but there were TSB's on it.
Not worth the risk imho.
*auto store silicone's I mean- I wouldn't use some home use stuff at all.
strange that that resonance chamber cracked, and interesting that there appear to be 5 of them on the R's! The engineers must have spent a lot of time tuning that intake sound.
#6
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#8
#9
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Don"t laugh!
I have used a product called Shoe goo with great sucess. It is intended to repair shoes but I have used it on cars and motorcycles. It bonds to plastics very well. Fills holes and gaps. remains some what flexible. Easy to apply and fully cures in 24 hrs. Much better than silicone sealant. You can find it on Amazon. Try it and let us know how it worked out for you.
I have used a product called Shoe goo with great sucess. It is intended to repair shoes but I have used it on cars and motorcycles. It bonds to plastics very well. Fills holes and gaps. remains some what flexible. Easy to apply and fully cures in 24 hrs. Much better than silicone sealant. You can find it on Amazon. Try it and let us know how it worked out for you.
#10
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ragman1171 (08-11-2014)
#11
#12
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The rick with using superglue to do plastic is to bycarb soda
After you apply the superglue and join the parts put a heap of bycarb soda over the top.
This makes the superglue go off instantly not sure why this works Im not a chemist by any means but my understanding is it produces a lot of local heat for an instant which causes the plactic to fuse. So the end result is the the fusion of the palstic not the glue holding the join
I have used this many times in fact I repaired my mirror and inner guard
doing this
Cheers
34by151
After you apply the superglue and join the parts put a heap of bycarb soda over the top.
This makes the superglue go off instantly not sure why this works Im not a chemist by any means but my understanding is it produces a lot of local heat for an instant which causes the plactic to fuse. So the end result is the the fusion of the palstic not the glue holding the join
I have used this many times in fact I repaired my mirror and inner guard
doing this
Cheers
34by151
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AD2014 (10-05-2014)
#13
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