I recently replaced the rear brake pads and rotors on my 04 XJR and all went well. Soon after, While doing so, I noticed that the parking brake pads needed replacement too. What is the disassembly procedure? Do the parking brake pad retaining pins need to be punched out like the Brembo pad replacement does? And if so, do they punch out from the outside (like the Brembo) or does the caliper have to come out to punch out the retaining pins from the inside? I ask because the pins look larger on the outside than they do on the inside which leads me to believe they punch out from the inside. I know that the torx screws hold the caliper halves together, do I need to split the caliper as well? A detailed step by step DIY procedure would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

I did this on my '05 SV8 last month. It's not that hard but you need a brake caliper compressor as the parking brake caliper piston needs to be wound back in place. I used this tool from Amazon, one of the adapter discs was a close enough fit: .

I know there are directions here on the forums (which specify which way to turn the piston to reset it), but I didn't bookmark them. I did not need to split the caliper, I was able to access the pads by just taking the pins out.

 

Thanks scooterforever.

Well I've made a lot of progress but I still have an issue with a "spongy brake pedal" and this is what I've done so far. BTW, I changed the front brakes a year or so ago and this job was to replace the rear rotors and pads as well as the non-integrated electrical parking brake pads. Also, my brakes worked OK when I started this job BUT I always had a somewhat spongy brake pedal.

1. I replaced the non integrated electrical parking brake pads and re-calibrated the parking brakes. No problems incurred.
2. I replaced both rotors and pads on the Brembo brake calipers. No problems with this as well.
3. Replaced the driver side caliper to brake line hose that somehow punctured during brake work. No problems here either.
4. Pressure bled all four (dual bleeder) calipers at 25 lbs pressure. Went well no problems.

So after all of this my brakes feel just as spongy as ever. UGH! So I read so many posts and everyone says there is still air but I really think I did a good job with that. Could it be the master cylinder is bad? I understand that the seals could be leaking back into the reservoir causing this issue. Has anyone had this problem and resolved it by replacing the master cylinder?

 

Yes the master cylinder would be my next step after all the work you have done.
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clubairth1

Thanks! Well, I was leaning that way so I guess I'll buy the part and do some research. I think I saw one (new) for about $225 and they recommend also buying a "MC bleeder tool" for about $20. If anybody reading this has done a master cylinder replacement on an '04 XJR or similar please pass on any tips that may be of use. I bought the emanual on line but it's really vague and doesn't even provide bolt/nut size information or even screwdriver types (phillips or straight) so I'm not brimming with confidence. Even so I'm pretty sure I can handle this job although maybe not so quickly. Not to worry... my F-Type beckons :-)

 

you don’t bench bleed these master cylinders, the remans even come with a warning to not do it.


i ran one absolutely bone dry and it bled with no issue. the bleeder on the mc is a 6.5 or 7mm, there’s a flap on the side that opens up so you can snake your hose in there

 

OK, good to know. And as I said I also bought the recommended bleeder tool that I assume is used once the MC is installed on the car. I will look into that parts arrive on 9/21.

 

SUCCESS! OK so after reading many posts and a lot of due diligence on my part I replaced the MC in my 04 XJR because of a spongy brake pedal. With the new MC I bought a bleeder tool for $20 that I didn't need or use. Also I might add that at least in my case, a pressure bleeder did not bleed the MC effectively, in fact the method that XALTY described above was simple and effective. Just attach a (clear) hose to the MC bleeder valve and insert the other end into the brake fluid reservoir then have someone slowly depress the brake pedal with the bleeder valve open then close the valve before the brake pedal is released. Repeat a few times until nothing but fluid is in the hose. Now I will admit that it was difficult to get to the bleeder valve which in MHO is on the wrong side of the MC but I was able to do it. (I can explain how if you run into this problem) After bleeding the MC I pressure bled the entire brake system (dual bleeder calipers) starting with RR then LR, RF and then LF. Afterwards I took the car for a test drive and was thrilled to find a normal feeling brake pedal and good solid braking at last!

 

Great outcome!!
Thanks much for posting back as I rarely guess correctly!!
Plus I did not know how that MC was bled. Different from what I am use to for sure.
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