2004 xjr Transmission Fault
#41
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Sounds like the water pump is not working and/ or the thermostat is not opening.
Replacing the water pump is not a big deal and neither is the thermostat. Neither are expensive if you do it yourself as I have done.
You say that cold "water" came out the drain plug of the radiator. I presume it was coolant? When replacing coolant it should be OATS compliant and you must not mix types or gel will form.
Replacing the water pump is not a big deal and neither is the thermostat. Neither are expensive if you do it yourself as I have done.
You say that cold "water" came out the drain plug of the radiator. I presume it was coolant? When replacing coolant it should be OATS compliant and you must not mix types or gel will form.
Last edited by jackra_1; 11-15-2016 at 04:40 PM.
#42
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I had a pending code for Knock sensor Bank 2 a current and pending one. When I changed the bad spark plug the restricted performance msg went away as well as the pending Bank 2 knock sensor. The Bank 2 knock sensor (current) is still there. Does this have to be cleared manually?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...03388427,d.cWw
Regarding the spark plug you replaced, if it was obviously bad you should replace all the other spark plugs. You don't need to get your new plugs from Jaguar, but unless you're an expert on spark plugs I highly recommend that you use the same brand and model of plug that your engine was originally equipped with. For example, on our '04 XJR the OE plugs are NGK IFR5N10 (7866). These are fairly expensive Laser Iridium plugs, but they have a very long life so you'll probably never have to replace them again.
The coolant thermostat is a very likely suspect, and if it's original you should replace it as a matter of course.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 11-15-2016 at 07:07 PM.
#43
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It was like a whining sound. I pulled out the old one when I first got the car as I though it was bad. I have installed a new one. I wonder if the radiator may be clogged with Gel. (I hope not). I notice the coolant bottle label shows to use the Orange radiator fluid, but I have seen evidence of green fluid. The water in the coolant fill jug stays clear, but when I took off a hose close to thermostat housing, I saw light green. Now if the water pump wasn't circulating, wouldn't the engine overheat? Temp gauge sits in the middle. I do hear the fan slowly increase to high speed and then maybe slow down a little. Also no HEAT, but that could be do to a failed aux pump. Not sure what all happened with this car, but I pray I get all problems fixed.
As far as the MAF error code goes, on the air filter box, there is another hose that comes out the bottom of box and goes over on top of radiator. If that hose is missing and the hole is just opened at the bottom side of air filter, will that cause the Air/MAF code?
As far as the MAF error code goes, on the air filter box, there is another hose that comes out the bottom of box and goes over on top of radiator. If that hose is missing and the hole is just opened at the bottom side of air filter, will that cause the Air/MAF code?
#44
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Green color not a good sign as that is usually not OATS compatible and originally your car would have had OATS orange coolant.
However if you are getting clear water draining out maybe you do not have coolant at all in the system?
The thermostat could be either blocked or stuck closed so that would be the next thing that I would check.
The fact that your temp gauge does not show overheating does not necessarily mean you are not overheating.
Also not getting heat would possibly indicate no flow of water/coolant thru the system. This could be a failed aux pump but I would check the thermostat first as you seem not to have proper flow despite the water pump working.
Another check that you could perform with the engine cold is to undo the supercharger top up plug. Coolant should be at the level of the bottom of the plug hole with the car on the level. Also if there is any gel you are likely to see it down in that hole as fluid does not "flow"in that "dead end".
However if you are getting clear water draining out maybe you do not have coolant at all in the system?
The thermostat could be either blocked or stuck closed so that would be the next thing that I would check.
The fact that your temp gauge does not show overheating does not necessarily mean you are not overheating.
Also not getting heat would possibly indicate no flow of water/coolant thru the system. This could be a failed aux pump but I would check the thermostat first as you seem not to have proper flow despite the water pump working.
Another check that you could perform with the engine cold is to undo the supercharger top up plug. Coolant should be at the level of the bottom of the plug hole with the car on the level. Also if there is any gel you are likely to see it down in that hole as fluid does not "flow"in that "dead end".
Last edited by jackra_1; 11-16-2016 at 09:00 AM.
#45
#46
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I will check it today. I let car idle yesterday and the hoses were warm on the supercharger water pump. Would it hurt if I flush the radiator system?
As for the transmission not finding it way out of 3rd gear.... I drained the oil, put in Mercon SP, although I did NOT change the filter at this time as I would like to do another flush, but the second time with a new filter/pan. The tranny still shifted up to 3rd, tried 5 attemps to leave 3rd, and then Transmission Fault. While I had car lifted in air, I tried to look for the electric plug that was mentioned. If it is a BIG round plug at rear top passenger side, then it was all dry. All the wires/connections I saw were dry. Mechanics (not Jag mechanics) pointed out some questionable things.
1. Both Front end wheel bearings need replacing. The passenger side is WAAYYYY loose and wooble. Mechanic said they had a car with the tranny acting up and couldn't figure out why. Turns out the car had a bad front wheel bearing and the sensor was causing the tranny to act up due to the wheel bearings being bad. Is this possible with the XJR?
2. Do you think this may be a software issue and maybe a re-flash would help. I know as soon as I put car in drive and drive maybe 2 car lengths, for some reason I get Cruise Unavailable message. Maybe all this is tied into the Bad Wheel Bearings??
As for the transmission not finding it way out of 3rd gear.... I drained the oil, put in Mercon SP, although I did NOT change the filter at this time as I would like to do another flush, but the second time with a new filter/pan. The tranny still shifted up to 3rd, tried 5 attemps to leave 3rd, and then Transmission Fault. While I had car lifted in air, I tried to look for the electric plug that was mentioned. If it is a BIG round plug at rear top passenger side, then it was all dry. All the wires/connections I saw were dry. Mechanics (not Jag mechanics) pointed out some questionable things.
1. Both Front end wheel bearings need replacing. The passenger side is WAAYYYY loose and wooble. Mechanic said they had a car with the tranny acting up and couldn't figure out why. Turns out the car had a bad front wheel bearing and the sensor was causing the tranny to act up due to the wheel bearings being bad. Is this possible with the XJR?
2. Do you think this may be a software issue and maybe a re-flash would help. I know as soon as I put car in drive and drive maybe 2 car lengths, for some reason I get Cruise Unavailable message. Maybe all this is tied into the Bad Wheel Bearings??
Last edited by JaguarVDP; 11-17-2016 at 07:43 AM.
#49
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I will check it today. I let car idle yesterday and the hoses were warm on the supercharger water pump. Would it hurt if I flush the radiator system?
As for the transmission not finding it way out of 3rd gear.... I drained the oil, put in Mercon SP, although I did NOT change the filter at this time as I would like to do another flush, but the second time with a new filter/pan. The tranny still shifted up to 3rd, tried 5 attemps to leave 3rd, and then Transmission Fault. While I had car lifted in air, I tried to look for the electric plug that was mentioned. If it is a BIG round plug at rear top passenger side, then it was all dry. All the wires/connections I saw were dry. Mechanics (not Jag mechanics) pointed out some questionable things.
1. Both Front end wheel bearings need replacing. The passenger side is WAAYYYY loose and wooble. Mechanic said they had a car with the tranny acting up and couldn't figure out why. Turns out the car had a bad front wheel bearing and the sensor was causing the tranny to act up due to the wheel bearings being bad. Is this possible with the XJR?
2. Do you think this may be a software issue and maybe a re-flash would help. I know as soon as I put car in drive and drive maybe 2 car lengths, for some reason I get Cruise Unavailable message. Maybe all this is tied into the Bad Wheel Bearings??
As for the transmission not finding it way out of 3rd gear.... I drained the oil, put in Mercon SP, although I did NOT change the filter at this time as I would like to do another flush, but the second time with a new filter/pan. The tranny still shifted up to 3rd, tried 5 attemps to leave 3rd, and then Transmission Fault. While I had car lifted in air, I tried to look for the electric plug that was mentioned. If it is a BIG round plug at rear top passenger side, then it was all dry. All the wires/connections I saw were dry. Mechanics (not Jag mechanics) pointed out some questionable things.
1. Both Front end wheel bearings need replacing. The passenger side is WAAYYYY loose and wooble. Mechanic said they had a car with the tranny acting up and couldn't figure out why. Turns out the car had a bad front wheel bearing and the sensor was causing the tranny to act up due to the wheel bearings being bad. Is this possible with the XJR?
2. Do you think this may be a software issue and maybe a re-flash would help. I know as soon as I put car in drive and drive maybe 2 car lengths, for some reason I get Cruise Unavailable message. Maybe all this is tied into the Bad Wheel Bearings??
If the transmission does not have the correct amount of fluid/oil it will/could cause big issues in performance.
I would not get a reflash unless I was sure that the fluid level in the tranny was correct.
Bad wheel bearings will not cause a transmission issue.
Last edited by jackra_1; 11-17-2016 at 09:46 AM.
#50
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Jackra_1,
i drained, filled it with a lil over 2 quarts before it started running out. started the car put it through all the gears about 3 seconds each then to park. filled it until it started running out again and let it warm up to 42C. then plugged it.
So far im being told that if it is giving a transmission fault the tranny is bad. jaguar plano dallas. he said no way to tell and they dont rebuild transmission there at the dealership. i said ok thank you.
i drained, filled it with a lil over 2 quarts before it started running out. started the car put it through all the gears about 3 seconds each then to park. filled it until it started running out again and let it warm up to 42C. then plugged it.
So far im being told that if it is giving a transmission fault the tranny is bad. jaguar plano dallas. he said no way to tell and they dont rebuild transmission there at the dealership. i said ok thank you.
#51
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Jackra_1,
i drained, filled it with a lil over 2 quarts before it started running out. started the car put it through all the gears about 3 seconds each then to park. filled it until it started running out again and let it warm up to 42C. then plugged it.
So far im being told that if it is giving a transmission fault the tranny is bad. jaguar plano dallas. he said no way to tell and they dont rebuild transmission there at the dealership. i said ok thank you.
i drained, filled it with a lil over 2 quarts before it started running out. started the car put it through all the gears about 3 seconds each then to park. filled it until it started running out again and let it warm up to 42C. then plugged it.
So far im being told that if it is giving a transmission fault the tranny is bad. jaguar plano dallas. he said no way to tell and they dont rebuild transmission there at the dealership. i said ok thank you.
The transmission is not necessarily bad.
If I were you I would thoroughly drain the transmission and look to get at least 4-5 quarts out with a simple drain. If not then there is way too little fluid in the transmission which should be dripping out at 42 C when filling with the engine running.
When I did mine I did a complete flush myself.
You need two people to do it the way I did and you would need close to 10.5 quarts of new fluid/oil to fill.
If interested I will explain how I did it. No special tools.
The point is its worth doing everything you can before going for a new transmission.
Last edited by jackra_1; 11-17-2016 at 03:17 PM.
#52
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JaguarVDP,
It sounds like you were following the official procedure, but just in case I am attaching a couple of ZF documents that give the official fluid change instructions so you can double-check. I agree with jackra_1 that 2 quarts is too little to drain out.
Cheers,
Don
It sounds like you were following the official procedure, but just in case I am attaching a couple of ZF documents that give the official fluid change instructions so you can double-check. I agree with jackra_1 that 2 quarts is too little to drain out.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 11-17-2016 at 10:50 PM.
#53
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Jackra_1,
i drained, filled it with a lil over 2 quarts before it started running out. started the car put it through all the gears about 3 seconds each then to park. filled it until it started running out again and let it warm up to 42C. then plugged it.
So far im being told that if it is giving a transmission fault the tranny is bad. jaguar plano dallas. he said no way to tell and they dont rebuild transmission there at the dealership. i said ok thank you.
i drained, filled it with a lil over 2 quarts before it started running out. started the car put it through all the gears about 3 seconds each then to park. filled it until it started running out again and let it warm up to 42C. then plugged it.
So far im being told that if it is giving a transmission fault the tranny is bad. jaguar plano dallas. he said no way to tell and they dont rebuild transmission there at the dealership. i said ok thank you.
You should first get about 3qts in the pan before it starts flowing out. Put plug in and start car & put AC on, EPB engaged.
Go into each gear with foot on brake and hold for 10 - 15 secs each in R, N, D, 2 & 3 then back to Park and rev to 1500 RPM for 60 secs.
Open plug, you should get another 2 - 3 quarts in. When it starts flowing out cap it, monitor temp very closely.
When you get to 35 deg C open plug.
No trickle, pump a bit in.
If it trickles wait to you get to 38 - 40 deg C and cap it if it's still trickling out.
Engine running throughout entire process and vehicle must be level.
Never let trans temp go past 50 deg C. If so cap it shut car off and wait too out cold back to 25 deg C and start again.
Last edited by abonano; 11-17-2016 at 10:41 PM.
#54
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Jackra_1, Don B, & abonano, thanks for the info. Maybe I didn't explain right or missing what your saying. When I said I put 2 quarts in, I was saying after the drain, It took a little over 2 quarts before it started running out. I then started the car put it through the gears 3 seconds each, then I proceeded to put in more fluid. total I put in was about 4.5 quarts. So if this is still not right, I will do as you mentioned abonano and check fluid again as I still have almost 2 quarts left over that I didn't use. When I did the drain, about 4.5 quarts come out. Should I have warmed the fluid up before I did drain or should the tranny be cold during the fluid change? (cold when I did the drain)
Last edited by JaguarVDP; 11-18-2016 at 08:09 AM.
#55
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2 quarts is not a lot at all for draining and the fluid in the bottle you show is well past its prime for sure. You will still have a lot of bad fluid in the transmission.
The transmission is not necessarily bad.
If I were you I would thoroughly drain the transmission and look to get at least 4-5 quarts out with a simple drain. If not then there is way too little fluid in the transmission which should be dripping out at 42 C when filling with the engine running.
When I did mine I did a complete flush myself.
You need two people to do it the way I did and you would need close to 10.5 quarts of new fluid/oil to fill.
If interested I will explain how I did it. No special tools.
The point is its worth doing everything you can before going for a new transmission.
The transmission is not necessarily bad.
If I were you I would thoroughly drain the transmission and look to get at least 4-5 quarts out with a simple drain. If not then there is way too little fluid in the transmission which should be dripping out at 42 C when filling with the engine running.
When I did mine I did a complete flush myself.
You need two people to do it the way I did and you would need close to 10.5 quarts of new fluid/oil to fill.
If interested I will explain how I did it. No special tools.
The point is its worth doing everything you can before going for a new transmission.
#56
#57
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I am praying I don't have engine problem as well. The radiator hoses swell tight and I can smell anti freeze. If I go back the next day without starting car and open cap on plastic reservoir, it is still pressured with air in it?? I do NOT want to do any damage to this car. I have had several Jags, but not like this. I also noticed yesterday when I started motor I heard a sound like something rattling almost like a tiny ping/knock being tossed around. (not constant) could water pump make this noise?
I know that this is a bodge, but it may save your engine;- there is a product named "K-seal", which was developed for Rover engines which were forever eating head gaskets, if the engine is not already destroyed, a couple of bottles of this may effect a cure.
Good luck, I truly feel your pain.
#58
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Jackra_1, Don B, & abonano, thanks for the info. Maybe I didn't explain right or missing what your saying. When I said I put 2 quarts in, I was saying after the drain, It took a little over 2 quarts before it started running out. I then started the car put it through the gears 3 seconds each, then I proceeded to put in more fluid. total I put in was about 4.5 quarts. So if this is still not right, I will do as you mentioned abonano and check fluid again as I still have almost 2 quarts left over that I didn't use. When I did the drain, about 4.5 quarts come out. Should I have warmed the fluid up before I did drain or should the tranny be cold during the fluid change? (cold when I did the drain)
Most people do that and everything seems fine.
However it is not that difficult to flush almost 100% of the old fluid out by disconnecting the transmission cooler lines at the double connection where they go into the side of the transmission.
Do the normal drain where you should get at least 6 quarts out with the engine/tranny cold if the tranny was full.. Some people let it drain overnight and claim to get more out.
This is where most people change the pan/filter and round electrical connector.
Fill through the fill hole cold until fluid drips out.
Now disconnect the transmission cooler lines and put some sort of downward deflector in place so that when transmission fluid blows out of the transmission it gets deflected into a large bin.
This is where care is needed. The engine needs to be started for about 1-2 seconds. This is where two people are required. One to start and stop the engine and one to top up the tranny thru the fill hole.
In 1-2 seconds about a quart of fluid will be blown out where the transmission lines are disconnected. It will come out with considerable force!
You put in about a quart at a time and blow out about a quart at a time until the fluid is clear
Then blow thru one of the cooler lines to empty out old fluid in the cooler and fasten the lines back where they were disconnected.
Complete the fill process now as normal at the correct temperature.
My 2005 XJR takes 10.53 quarts of transmission fluid.
This method I have described can be very messy unless precautions are taken. Especially with a deflector plate in position to deflect ejecting fluid down into a large pan/bin.
When I did my change even tho I followed procedure after I drove the car for about 10 miles I needed to add a bit more fluid when I checked it.
I wish you luck with your engine and hope its still good and the same with your transmission.
Last edited by jackra_1; 11-19-2016 at 08:18 AM.
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JaguarVDP (11-20-2016)
#59
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with me not changing the filter is that why i could only fit in 4.5 although that is the same amount that came out. i will try the 15 sec method in all gears.
#60
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well I decided to take water pump off to make sure it was ok. it appears to be fine. This also gave me the opportunity to take aux heat pump off and test it as no hot air comes out of the vents. the pump was frozen from age and water getting into bottom part. i got one off a mercedes and modified it. i tested the replacement pump and it works. i installed it and it still does not turn on! what am I missing? I thought I read the aux heater pump should come on when the ignition is in position 2 with temp set on high with inside blower running. I checked fuse 8 in truck and it is not blown. what could be stopping it from coming on?
this may also explain why my hoses appear to be swollen because there is trapped air/steam in the system. i tried running engine several time with coolant top off of bottle.
Anyway, how does the Aux Heater Pump work?
this may also explain why my hoses appear to be swollen because there is trapped air/steam in the system. i tried running engine several time with coolant top off of bottle.
Anyway, how does the Aux Heater Pump work?
Last edited by JaguarVDP; 11-22-2016 at 09:28 PM.