I'm having a similar issue on my 2000 - aux pump is good but not receiving proper grounding signal from CCM. (I think that's my issue anyway)

What you can do is find the relay for the aux pump and place a jumper between pins 3 & 5 and see if aux pump runs. (No need to turn ignition on for this test as its +12V direct power)

If pump runs it rules out wiring issues. If it doesn't run you might have bigger issues.

Relay/fuse for aux pump should be located in the front distribution fuse box, not trunk. Check fuse first...

I would also swap the aux pump relay with another known working relay. Finally, I would consider finding a jaguar aux pump but try the above with the other pump from MB and see what happens.

 

+1 on Abonano's suggestions. There are a couple at least identical relays in that engine compartment fuse box.

The aux pump runs continuously even without the heat on high on my car.

I replaced and upgraded both my aux and sc pump while I was messing in that area.

 

im a little confused on fuse relay location. my user guide says their in the trunk and i havent found any fuses that are blown? where do i go from here?

also, i looked at manual for transmission and it says to set the parking brake. im assuming they want you to take tranny through all gears and at finally gear 3 leave it there and set the parking brake. if so then i did the fill wrong as I put it back in park and then filled. this may be the issue as far as tranny goes I hope.

 

Fuse F8 in the trunk is for the heater water pump according to my handbook.

It does not tell me what any relay is for however. Maybe someone else can chip in with that info.

As far as leaving the transmission in 3rd with the brake on while filling up. I absolutely would NOT do that even if it says that in the manual.

I certainly did not do that as I had the car up on jack stands.

Someone in this forum went thru the fill process on jack stands and had his wheels spinning.

When he applied brakes guess what... the momentum of the wheels under braking transferred to the car which promptly came off the jack stands.

 

If you don't have the 2004 X350 Electrical Guide, you can download it here, courtesy of our forum member Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf


The schematics for every circuit are shown and the page before each schematic identifies and gives the location of every component, connector, splice and ground point used by the circuit.

For example, the auxilliary coolant pump is shown on figure 6.2 (pdf page 83). It shares the same relay as the blower motor, R1 in the Rear Power Distribution Fusebox (RPDF). Both the blower and aux pump are operated by the Climate Control Module. The fuse for the aux coolant pump is F8 (10A) in the RPDF.

The ground point used by the aux coolant pump is G3, in the engine compartment below the Front Power Distribution Fusebox.

Cheers,

Don

 

I got another scanner that reads CAN. It shows P0783 generic 3-4 shift. which i already knew it wasnt shifting into 4. does this tell me anything different?

 

Did you fix the misfire issue? I strongly recommend this prior to looking at transmissions codes. You could end up chasing your tail.

 

BlackKat,

all misfires have been fixed.

 

No. That is the code that would be set when trans cannot up shift to 4th after 2 attempts.

Potential causes:

Low or incorrect level fluid

Possible fluid pressure issue flagging false code (reflash might rectify as trans ages pressures vary)

Fluid leakage on TCM pins (leaking sleeve)

Bad MV solenoid in valve body.

Bad Valve Body (including bridge seal or seals connecting valve body to trans case)

Scorched E Clutch or Stator...

 

I am attaching the ZF 6HP26 On-Board Diagnostics manual. P0783 is triggered by the TCM calculating excessive slip during the 3-4 or 4-3 gear change. Here are a couple of pertinent sections from the manual:







Another important resource is the DTC Summaries manual, which you can download at this link:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...03388427,d.cWw


According to the DTC Summaries, possible causes of P0783 are:

ECM torque signal fault; or
Transmission mechanical failure

This may bring you back to Box's comments about a solenoid or other internal transmission problem, or could indicate a problem with the ECM torque signal which is communicated to the TCM via CAN. But it might be as simple as low fluid since low fluid pressure is one of the triggers.

It would be worth studying the manuals for all the sensor inputs involved to see if any of your other DTCs may indicate a problem with one of the same sensors referenced for gear changes. If you find any correlation, it would be worth cleaning the sensor, its electrical connector, and the ground point(s) used by the circuit.

If you'll list all the DTCs you have we'll try to help.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you all for your continued assistance. I will check fluid again Monday. I tried yesterday but fluid got to 49 and I let it cool down. I then started working on the aux heat pump problem. I cleaned 2 ground points in front of the fuse distribution box behind passenger headlight. I then noticed as I pulled on the positive wire running to the heat pump, it came completely out of it sleeve! It must have gotten pinched and broke. This could be the reason the pump wasn't coming on. I will remove all the hoses and try and trace the point were it broke and reattach it.

 

It sounds like you've found the problem with the pump!

While you're cleaning grounds, it would be worth also cleaning the one behind the left headlamp as well as the ones hidden under the windshield cowl covers over the brake master cylinder and the cabin air microfilter/ECM connector.

I can't recall whether we've mentioned checking the ECM electrical connector for signs of water ingress, but that is definitely worth doing. The connector is below the microfilter housing and above a water drain that tends to plug up with leaves and seeds, which allows water to pool around the connector. It's worth checking and cleaning just in case your ECM torque signal could be affected by water or corrosion on ECM connector pins.

Cheers,

Don

 

Be careful with the ground behind the headlamp as it can easily be broken as many have testified in this forum.

 

Good point, jackra_1. The torque spec for all the ground studs is just 6.5 ft. lbs., which is just slightly more than hand tight. Overtightening the nut can easily snap the studs off of the body because they are just spot-welded on.

 

yeah glad they didnt snap because i was putting some torque on them when tightening them.

 

I hope that is the problem. It would really be nice if that solved my issue. i was reading in the electrical guide that was posted. It says the ECT sensor plays a part in the TCC as well. Not sure with system having air in it if that would cause issues or not.

where exactly is this connectir that everyone is talking about that leaks and gets fluid on it? is it on the top right back of tranny and round? if so it is very dry (dusty dry)

here is a picture of the positive wire that pulled out of the wire sleeve that goes to the aux heater pump.

 

http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/6_...eplacement.pdf

Have a look at the above. Originally posted by Nbcat in this forum.

 

Good Morning all,

I was doing more research, and I found an old post back in 2010 from a Member on this board. The poster mentioned a code P0783 same as what mine has. He said he ended up changing the transmission. Poster also mentioned something I had been wondering, but didn't mention. He/She mentioned that their gear selector would go in gear without having to step on the brake. I noticed I have that same issue as well. I didn't know if this was normal, since the auto parking brake would come on. Could this be in connection with the P0783 issue, maybe a cause to the issue, or nothing to do with it at all? Whether key on/off or ignition on/off, you can just grab selector and put in gear without stepping on the brake pedal.

 

The shift mechanism will allow you to move the shifter selector, but without ignition, the solenoid inside that mechanism will not allow the cable going to the tranny to move.

 

Glory to GOD!! Aux Heater Pump is now working! it comes on when the blower is activated inside car. Now to work on the tranny.

Is there a way to check the solenoids to find out if one isnt working? I know there is 3 blue and 3 yellow?

How do I know which one is for 4th gear? or which isnt allowing tranny to go to 4 from 3rd? are all the blues the same and interchangeable as well as the yellows being the same?

I ask because I may have access to some spare ones if needed.

Thanks again