so looking at valve body on the rear end opposite of the solenoid there are little tiny spring loaded pistons as i call them. some of them u can press with finger and the last 2 closer to pass side but still on back will not push in is that normal?

also can i take off valve body without disturbing the connector with the seal on it? mine doesnt leak and i dont want to mess with it and cause it to start.

 

Vise Grips. Ok to break plastic pan its garbage anyway. Also, you can cut a slit into the bolt and remove with a flat blade screwdriver.

+1 on PB Blaster...Good stuff..

 

You need to remove sealing sleeve before you can remove TCM/valve body assembly.

If your sealing sleeve has red o rings best upgrade it to newer version with black o rings. Use vasoline and tranny fluid to lube the o rings before pressing back in place.

No need to remove the valve body unless your going to change seals or clean sensors...

 

I took it out to check the solenoids. I got a reading from all of them. I think my Ohm reader is going out the readings would change and then be steady. May be the battery in my ohm reader. Anyway, I took it off and pull the sensors out and out came tranny fluid turn it upside down to get all fluid out trying not to be too messy. Then, when I turned it back over there was black oily fluid with some grits maybe metal shavings? I believe tranny has 120ish miles and I don't think the pan/fluid was ever changed, I could be wrong. I wonder if that gritty gunk affected the valve body sensors. all sensors read 34. something and the MV was like 44-50 ohms.

Is there a torque sequence for putting the valve body back and what should I torque the valve body screws at?

 

Yes, there is a torque sequence. I'll PM a document to you in a bit. I believe it's 8Nm (for valve body) and 10Nm for pan bolts.

You should see differing ohm readings for the different colored solenoids and MV should have its own ohm reading.

The solenoids have varying mA voltages during operation, whereas the MV is simply a close or opened solenoid.

Metal shavings are not a good sign - also if fluid is black also not a good sign. Worn fluid is a dark brown color. Put a drop of fluid on a white paper to see if it's truly black or dark brown...

You can also put a magnet in the oil to see how big the shavings are but if the oil has a shimmer to it, not good.

If you can actually see the shavings, again, not good..

 

My apologies, just now getting back on her to read your response. The black gritty oil came out of the valve body only. That is when I took it off and turned it up side down.
After all was put back together with the NEW filter. It still had a problem leaving 3rd and that is with me driving kinda slow. I turned off ignition restarted to reset tranny error and punched it. It took off and this time when I left off gas pedal it went into the tranny fault.
Parked it and checked for any new codes and this time it said Gear 6 incorrect ratio.

So far what I can tell is if I drive it hard, it seems to make it through all gears, but faults when I let off the pedal. Again, I don't know this tranny, but I am learning some things. Sounds as if pressure has an effect on it. Is there any other way to be sure that this is not a worn Valve Body or Software issue? I say valve body because the black gritty stuff came out of the Valve body when I turned it upside down. If I need a tranny, I will be fine with that, but If it is a valve body or/and software issue, I'd prefer that to be the issue, that would be less work. I read in a manual also that the black seal that goes between the valve body and tranny tends to leak and will cause tranny to fault. It is that black square seal that has to square holes.
not sure the name of it. (valve body adapter seal)? If so, I didn't replace that part as I didn't think about it till later.

 

Will a trans from a 2003 S type, bolt right in?

 

Yes, just make sure trans VIN range is within spec for TCM reflash (or, just install your TCM and your golden)

 

Hello all, Is there a write up on how to work on Valve body or test it? Is there a compnay that specializes in the valve body? I still playing around with this tranny. I got a valve body out of a S-Type. All of the little pistons have a spring load as far as the one out of my car, 2 in the rear dont have a spring load and about 2 or3 on the top sides dont have any spring resistance as well? shouldnt all the piston have a spring load?

I took valve body out of S Type and put in my tranny and it was worse. it makes the tranny slip in first gear now. I know those 1-3 gears are fine as it drove before i put that valve body in. i kept the same mechtronics unit (only swapped valve body and solenoids). Again the valve body out of the S type appears to be in better shape as far as all pistons have a spring load.

thanks

 

Hello all,

It's been a while since I have been on here. I know this post is old now, but I wanted to keep with this post. I finally got a replacement trans from a 2005 XJ. I had to use my Torqure Converter as the other one was not for XJR. I put everything back together and put fluid in Mercon SP. It may still be a little low. Upon starting vehicle I had some codes, but cleared them because some were from me turning on the key with the trans not plugged in. I am getting the "Transmission Fault" error message now.

Is this due to the TCM being different and me not using my same one. I still have the car on jacks, so I have not tried to move it.

I plugged in my reader and got these messages:
P0610: Control Module Vehicle Options Error
P1000: forget what this one was but I think it is because it is not finished running scan

I also noticed on the J Drive selector. Only PRND will light up, if I select 5432 they will not light up.

How do I fix this? I have a feeling it is because I am using the TCM that came with the tranny. The old one looked like it was damaged at a tip that sticks up in the back pointing to the rotating part of the tranny.

 

Hi JaguarVDP,

I'm not sure where you found that definition for P0610, but you can download the Jaguar Diagnostic Trouble Codes Summaries here:

Jaguar X350 DTC Summaries

According to Jaguar, here is the definition of and possible cause/resolution for P0610:


It is quite possible that your new TCM just needs to be reconfigured using a Jaguar dealer-level system like WDS or SDD. If you don't have a local Jaguar dealer, you might call around to shops that service European vehicles to see if one has the software necessary to reconfigure the TCM. Our member Bob Gauff (motorcarman) is in Texas - if he's within driving distance he could probably help.

The P1000 code is innocuous and simply means the readiness monitors have not all reset since the codes were cleared.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the info Don!!! :-)