2006 XJ8 VDP 50+ DTC's from iCarsoft v2.0 LR(J)
#1
2006 XJ8 VDP 50+ DTC's from iCarsoft v2.0 LR(J)
Hi again,
After the failure of the innova OBDII tool, I went out and got an iCarsoft v2.0 (Jaguar specific), and ran the diagnostic smart scan.
The list of codes is extensive so I am wondering if there is a way to get them out of the unit without me having to retype everything here. Anyone tried this?
I probably have upwards of 50 codes. I manually recorded each one so that I can review it back inside, and I will post them here when I get a minute.
NOTE: The battery is new and reads a voltage of 14v (13.4v when idling in the driveway.)
Here is a few to start pondering (also I posted in the wrong section so moving here)
Gecm:
B2493
b2491
b2037
b1676
b2496
b1838
b1437
b1570
b1458
ip:
B2879
u0128
u2199
u1900
u2510
b1681
u2523
u2524
u2521
b1318
b1352
u2197
u2200
u2522
b2139
__________________
After the failure of the innova OBDII tool, I went out and got an iCarsoft v2.0 (Jaguar specific), and ran the diagnostic smart scan.
The list of codes is extensive so I am wondering if there is a way to get them out of the unit without me having to retype everything here. Anyone tried this?
I probably have upwards of 50 codes. I manually recorded each one so that I can review it back inside, and I will post them here when I get a minute.
NOTE: The battery is new and reads a voltage of 14v (13.4v when idling in the driveway.)
Here is a few to start pondering (also I posted in the wrong section so moving here)
Gecm:
B2493
b2491
b2037
b1676
b2496
b1838
b1437
b1570
b1458
ip:
B2879
u0128
u2199
u1900
u2510
b1681
u2523
u2524
u2521
b1318
b1352
u2197
u2200
u2522
b2139
__________________
#2
Could be they have just never been cleared.
That way the dealer can BS you, into believing you a bunch of serious issues.
Both of mine had a gang of codes, when purchased, that never came back.
Is your check engine light on, are you having problems???
If not, clear the codes to see if there is any that come back, if not forget about it and enjoy your Jaguar.
That way the dealer can BS you, into believing you a bunch of serious issues.
Both of mine had a gang of codes, when purchased, that never came back.
Is your check engine light on, are you having problems???
If not, clear the codes to see if there is any that come back, if not forget about it and enjoy your Jaguar.
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Don B (06-19-2019)
#3
There is no engine light, but there are multiple issues like AIR SUSPENSION FAULT (Sagging rear end, recent), PARKBREAK FAULT and a FUEL PUMP fault (even though the engine runs fine).
Is there a way to clear all the code and do a fresh scan from there?
Is there a way to clear all the code and do a fresh scan from there?
Last edited by Leslie Graham (Levitikon); 06-19-2019 at 04:00 PM.
#4
Large numbers of stored codes are common when you've had a problem with low battery voltage, which I'm assuming you've had since your battery is new. The iCarsoft should be able to clear/erase all the codes, then you can only concern yourself with the codes that recur.
Cheers,
Don
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AD2014 (07-01-2019)
#5
Codes
Thanks Don.
So I wiped all the codes with the iCarsoft and re-ran the smart scan. One interesting result was the the engine stalled and wont start now. Here are the codes.
B2879: State, Current. Fuel tank jet pump fault.
P0087: State, Current. Fuel rail/system pressure - too low.
C1895: State, Current. Rear left height sensor - short circuit to battery.
C1895: State, Current. Rear right height sensor - short circuit to battery.
P0231: State: Current. Fuel pump A - Secondary circuit low. / Fuel pump secondary circuit low.
I should mention that the fuel gauge stopped reading (orange light) and the range went to " -- " after clearing codes with the Innova reader, though the fuel gauge never really worked properly; I used to trust the range for fuel levels as the gauge was intermittent. Before it stopped sending it read a range of 145km so not sure why it wont start now.
I need help! My wife asked me why I bother with it since last week I said I was giving up with it. I replied that I didn't have a code reader last week!! Hope springs eternal.
So I wiped all the codes with the iCarsoft and re-ran the smart scan. One interesting result was the the engine stalled and wont start now. Here are the codes.
B2879: State, Current. Fuel tank jet pump fault.
P0087: State, Current. Fuel rail/system pressure - too low.
C1895: State, Current. Rear left height sensor - short circuit to battery.
C1895: State, Current. Rear right height sensor - short circuit to battery.
P0231: State: Current. Fuel pump A - Secondary circuit low. / Fuel pump secondary circuit low.
I should mention that the fuel gauge stopped reading (orange light) and the range went to " -- " after clearing codes with the Innova reader, though the fuel gauge never really worked properly; I used to trust the range for fuel levels as the gauge was intermittent. Before it stopped sending it read a range of 145km so not sure why it wont start now.
I need help! My wife asked me why I bother with it since last week I said I was giving up with it. I replied that I didn't have a code reader last week!! Hope springs eternal.
#7
Thanks Don.
So I wiped all the codes with the iCarsoft and re-ran the smart scan. One interesting result was the the engine stalled and wont start now. Here are the codes.
B2879: State, Current. Fuel tank jet pump fault.
P0087: State, Current. Fuel rail/system pressure - too low.
C1895: State, Current. Rear left height sensor - short circuit to battery.
C1895: State, Current. Rear right height sensor - short circuit to battery.
P0231: State: Current. Fuel pump A - Secondary circuit low. / Fuel pump secondary circuit low.
I should mention that the fuel gauge stopped reading (orange light) and the range went to " -- " after clearing codes with the Innova reader, though the fuel gauge never really worked properly; I used to trust the range for fuel levels as the gauge was intermittent. Before it stopped sending it read a range of 145km so not sure why it wont start now.
I need help! My wife asked me why I bother with it since last week I said I was giving up with it. I replied that I didn't have a code reader last week!! Hope springs eternal.
So I wiped all the codes with the iCarsoft and re-ran the smart scan. One interesting result was the the engine stalled and wont start now. Here are the codes.
B2879: State, Current. Fuel tank jet pump fault.
P0087: State, Current. Fuel rail/system pressure - too low.
C1895: State, Current. Rear left height sensor - short circuit to battery.
C1895: State, Current. Rear right height sensor - short circuit to battery.
P0231: State: Current. Fuel pump A - Secondary circuit low. / Fuel pump secondary circuit low.
I should mention that the fuel gauge stopped reading (orange light) and the range went to " -- " after clearing codes with the Innova reader, though the fuel gauge never really worked properly; I used to trust the range for fuel levels as the gauge was intermittent. Before it stopped sending it read a range of 145km so not sure why it wont start now.
I need help! My wife asked me why I bother with it since last week I said I was giving up with it. I replied that I didn't have a code reader last week!! Hope springs eternal.
Did you clear the codes previously with the Innova scanner?
I cannot think that clearing the codes created the fuel pressure issues. Mine gets an oxygen sensor code on start up about twice a year. Once cleared the CEL goes away. But still runs fine.
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#8
That's the thing about this car; it ran fine, but occasionally it would present a gearbox fault, and get stuck in 3rd(4th) gear. It generally sorted itself out without much fuss. I used it as a daily drive for two weeks without any trouble, until it rained, and then I started to get more faults. That's when I got the Innova scanner, which was useless. When I tried to do a live data test with it, it required a clearing of freeze-frame data and DTC's, so I went ahead with it, but the moment I did the fuel gage went to empty and the fuel pump fault showed up. It seemed to coincidental to not be related, but I really don't know. This car is a mystery; fault codes come and go. Only now has it been rendered immobile. Until now it was a nuisance but it still ran.
#9
Reset
I assume you have done this, but have you disconnected the battery to do a hard reset?
Some recommend connecting the two cables once disconnected and leave them touching for 5 minutes to drain any stored voltage in the electrical system.
Then clear codes with the iCarsoft once connected back up. Hopefully running too.
My iCarsoft is 3-4 years old. Have they updated the software?
Some recommend connecting the two cables once disconnected and leave them touching for 5 minutes to drain any stored voltage in the electrical system.
Then clear codes with the iCarsoft once connected back up. Hopefully running too.
My iCarsoft is 3-4 years old. Have they updated the software?
#10
That's the thing about this car; it ran fine, but occasionally it would present a gearbox fault, and get stuck in 3rd(4th) gear. It generally sorted itself out without much fuss. I used it as a daily drive for two weeks without any trouble, until it rained, and then I started to get more faults. That's when I got the Innova scanner, which was useless. When I tried to do a live data test with it, it required a clearing of freeze-frame data and DTC's, so I went ahead with it, but the moment I did the fuel gage went to empty and the fuel pump fault showed up. It seemed to coincidental to not be related, but I really don't know. This car is a mystery; fault codes come and go. Only now has it been rendered immobile. Until now it was a nuisance but it still ran.
1. There have been instances of water causing problems with the ECM and its connector which is located behind the glovebox, The connector is accessed by removing the pollen filter box in the engine bay in front of the glovebox. What can happen is that water drains in the pollen filter housing become blocked causing water to get to the ECM connector which is located underneath. It is not a big job to get to it.
2. Also water can get into the cabin and affect connectors in the wiring loom due to blocked sunroof drains, there's a thread going at the moment about this. I don't have a sunroof but others can give guidance on this. There is I believe a grey connector that feeds the fuel pumps and level senders under the back seat which can get wet if the drains are blocked. I think it is on the far right hand side. If you take out the back seat you can get to it easily.
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Leslie Graham (Levitikon) (06-22-2019)
#11
Question before I get into anything too involved.
Hey folks,
Noting the above codes and the replies in the thread I wanted to ask a question that might change my approach to tackling this. Firstly I am going to concentrate on the fuel pump issue first, since the car won't start and seems like the most pressing issue; I can address the suspension height sensors another day. I need a win here to get me motivated!!
I am familiar with electrical diagrams (not by trade, but necessity) and have read all the ones that pertain to the fuel pump and sender levels etc... So my question (before getting into more invasive measures) is this:
If there is a possibility that rain has gotten into the ECM connector behind the glove box, which seems fair since my issues have become worse after significant rain, would the system still be able to receive the codes from the fuel level sensors and the fuel pump?
I see that the modules themselves communicate with the Rear Electronic Control Module, which communicates back to the ECM through the SCPN. My assumption is that in order to receive those specific fault codes it would first have to successfully communicate them to the Rear Electronic Control Module. That to me would point to the modules themselves being at fault, unless of course the codes present when the ECM fails to receive any sensor info from the two modules.
Thoughts?
In the meantime I will check the connector under the pollen filter and GR31 (if I can get to it).
Thanks in advance.
Noting the above codes and the replies in the thread I wanted to ask a question that might change my approach to tackling this. Firstly I am going to concentrate on the fuel pump issue first, since the car won't start and seems like the most pressing issue; I can address the suspension height sensors another day. I need a win here to get me motivated!!
I am familiar with electrical diagrams (not by trade, but necessity) and have read all the ones that pertain to the fuel pump and sender levels etc... So my question (before getting into more invasive measures) is this:
If there is a possibility that rain has gotten into the ECM connector behind the glove box, which seems fair since my issues have become worse after significant rain, would the system still be able to receive the codes from the fuel level sensors and the fuel pump?
I see that the modules themselves communicate with the Rear Electronic Control Module, which communicates back to the ECM through the SCPN. My assumption is that in order to receive those specific fault codes it would first have to successfully communicate them to the Rear Electronic Control Module. That to me would point to the modules themselves being at fault, unless of course the codes present when the ECM fails to receive any sensor info from the two modules.
Thoughts?
In the meantime I will check the connector under the pollen filter and GR31 (if I can get to it).
Thanks in advance.
#12
#13
I recall seeing the voltage in the 14v range when it was running.
Question. Is the ECM literally under the housing for the filter?
#14
Update with pictures
Well I removed the cabin filter and the housing and got access to the ground (31) which seemed intact.
Cabin filter housing removed
I'll have to go back to the electrical diagrams to figure which is which, but I thing the Data Link Connector is on the right, since it grounds at G31
I'm guessing this is the ECM?
i cleaned the connections and the ground.
duydnt solve my Fuel Pump Fault though. I guess I will have to take the back seat out.
Cabin filter housing removed
I'll have to go back to the electrical diagrams to figure which is which, but I thing the Data Link Connector is on the right, since it grounds at G31
I'm guessing this is the ECM?
i cleaned the connections and the ground.
duydnt solve my Fuel Pump Fault though. I guess I will have to take the back seat out.
#15
Your third photo shows the connectors to the ECM with the two clamps holding them in. The ECM itself is located behind the glovebox inside the car.
Getting the rear seat out is not hard. If you run your fingers under the front edge of the seat you will feel four triangular shaped flat levers. Push each one in turn to the side and lift the edge of the seat to release the catch. Stick a piece of cardboard in after you get each one free to stop it re-latching when you go on onto the next.
Pull the front edge of the seat up and forward.to get it out.If you're kneeling at the rear right door the grey connector is towards the rear of the seat. It will have 6 pins I think and 2 are quite thick wires, red and yellow , these are the power feed to the pump on the right hand side of the tank. The other wires go to the level senders on the right and the left.
If you pull off the two black plastic circular access panels you will see the top of the pump module on the right and the level sender/jet pump module on the left. There are local connectors on top of the modules which have also caused some people problems.
Getting the rear seat out is not hard. If you run your fingers under the front edge of the seat you will feel four triangular shaped flat levers. Push each one in turn to the side and lift the edge of the seat to release the catch. Stick a piece of cardboard in after you get each one free to stop it re-latching when you go on onto the next.
Pull the front edge of the seat up and forward.to get it out.If you're kneeling at the rear right door the grey connector is towards the rear of the seat. It will have 6 pins I think and 2 are quite thick wires, red and yellow , these are the power feed to the pump on the right hand side of the tank. The other wires go to the level senders on the right and the left.
If you pull off the two black plastic circular access panels you will see the top of the pump module on the right and the level sender/jet pump module on the left. There are local connectors on top of the modules which have also caused some people problems.
Last edited by paddyx350; 06-23-2019 at 06:55 PM.
#16
Leslie;
You are having problems eerily similar to what I am dealing with. I suggest starting by disconnecting the battery and cleaning the two red levered connectors in your photos which are the connections to the ECM. I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. I got mine at Autozone. The rectangular connector in the foreground of your photo is the only connector that I have not opened and cleaned. I suggest doing so while you have things apart.
You are having problems eerily similar to what I am dealing with. I suggest starting by disconnecting the battery and cleaning the two red levered connectors in your photos which are the connections to the ECM. I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. I got mine at Autozone. The rectangular connector in the foreground of your photo is the only connector that I have not opened and cleaned. I suggest doing so while you have things apart.
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Leslie Graham (Levitikon) (06-23-2019)
#17
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Don B (06-23-2019),
Leslie Graham (Levitikon) (06-23-2019)
#18
Thanks Mike. I was literally just reading your thread. I cleaned both ECM connectors and the third one that you can see in just right of the ground (not sure what that is just yet).
Cleaning the ECM connectors and ground didn't remedy the two fuel related codes so I have moved on and removed the rear seat. I will report on that when I have time. Maybe tomorrow. The errors that I have would all come through the rear electronic control module so I am wondering about checking that next.
Cleaning the ECM connectors and ground didn't remedy the two fuel related codes so I have moved on and removed the rear seat. I will report on that when I have time. Maybe tomorrow. The errors that I have would all come through the rear electronic control module so I am wondering about checking that next.
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