I have 2008 jaguar xj. About a month ago, I left the car to the mechanics because the sunroof remained open and did not close and the windows did not open, but they could not solve the problem. My vehicle stood empty in the parking lot for 1 month, then I went to my vehicle and started my vehicle with a jumper. The windows were opening and closing, but the sunroof was still not working. When I came to my house with my car, I realized that the windows were not working again. I made global open on the remote and all the windows were opened, but now the windows cannot be closed with global close or from the panel. Everything works in my car except the windows and sunroof. I tried hard reset by removing the battery and touching the cable ends, but it didn't work. I checked the fuses on the side seat, there is no problem there. Currently, all the windows and sunroof of my car are left open. Do you have any suggestions for a solution?

 

Check grounds (earths) behind headlights.

 

I find 3 grounds connection on back all of them seems ok

 

From your initial write up you cannot reliably operate any of the door windows from the global open on your remote nor the global close switch on the centre console.
It also sounds like you can't operate any of them from the drivers door switch console.

Are any of the individual door windows controllable from the switch located on any of their respective respective doors? (passenger front, left and right rear doors).
Particularly interested in whether the passenger front door is controllable from its own switch.
Do you have 12 volts present on and passing through fuse F16 of the rear power distribution fuse box?

 

Thanks for answer. none of the switches are working And i check F16 and rest, all of them works.

 

Checking at any door, the wiring loom that goes to the door's window motor controller is a solid red wire going to pin 2 of each door's window motor controller plug.
That red wire should have 12 volts present to run windows and also up to the sunroof.

That voltage line is controlled and enabled through the front electronics module.
Check to see if you have 12 volts at the door and if not whether there is 12 volts at plug CR1 pin 15 on the front electronics module when the ignition key is in an on position.
If you do have voltage on plug CR1 pin 15, but not at the doors or sunroof, then you have a open red wire in the loom.
If you don't have voltage on plug CR1 pin 15 then the front electronics module is inhibiting windows, and that could either be a switching fault in the front electronics module or if is perceiving a command from elsewhere to not enable windows.

 

Thanks for the answer. I've read in a few places that the fem may be the problem, but I don't know where the fem is and how to measure volts on the pin. Could you give some more detailed information about this?

 

FEM is located in the front left A pillar.
You can remove the kick panel to get better access to it.

As for measuring the voltage, if you raid your wife's sewing box of a couple of pins, you can generally slip a pin up alongside the relevant wire to be tested to end up touching the metal of the connector in the plug, that gives you a temporary insitu test point that you can then get your multi-meter probe onto. You just have to be careful that your inserted pin does not short anywhere else by mistake if the module is able to be moved or your meter probe can touch something else while you are trying to make your measurement.
There are some dedicated test probes that you can buy on eBay that come in packs of 10 that do that subtle invasive penetration of automotive harness plugs (because automotive connectors have waterproofing seals for each wire entry point).

 

If you find that you have no 12 volt output being enabled from the FEM to supply the windows etc, it may be worth getting the FEM opened checked by an electronics technician.
I haven't looked inside the FCM myself to see if it has semiconductor switching outputs or if it uses relays instead.

I fit does use relays (like the front and rear power distribution assemblies do), then there is a pretty good chance that you may have a relay with bad intermittent contacts that is causing your issue, and it should be pretty easy to replace with a suitable equivalent by someone with some suitable soldering equipment.

 

I found FEM but it was really very hard to reach place. I didnt check volts yet but i'll deal with it over the weekend and get back to you. Thanks