What brings me around to here though is the air line. One of the three that are bundled together had a hole melted in it by the exhaust, so now I have to pull it out and replace it. Well, that is a task and a half. There are zip ties holding the bundle together every few inches, and clips holding them together and to the car every foot or so. Additionally, there are large fiberglass panels under the car that have to be removed first before I can get to the air lines.

Here is where it went bad.

The bolts holding in the panels have all had their anchor nuts wrenched loose, so now I have no way of removing the panels short of pulling apart the interior to get at the anchor nuts, or breaking apart the panels. I don't want to break the panels since they are in good condition and have no desire to break something that isn't. I don't have the time to pull apart half the interior either since the car is needed in a few days.

My main concern, and question for knowledge, comes down to this...

If I drill out the studs and take of the panel, how important are they to the car of it is driven with them off for a month or two? It looks like they are nothing but deflection and air control panels meant to protect the soft aluminum underside, air lines and other components from road debris, as well as some additional sound control to reduce road noise, but that is about it. If this is the case, then removing the panel and leaving it off for a while will be just fine. Does anyone have any knowledge of these panels and their importance? thanks.

Additionally, if anyone is willing to get under their car and provide some pics of how the air line bundle is supposed to be secured at the spare tire well, that would be great. I don't see any way to anchor the bracket, but that is no surprise since it may have been left off when it was poorly repaired from the wreck.




The three line bundle that comes out and around the spare tire well. Sitting against the exhaust.


The melted bracket.


The line bundle going between the panel and the car body.


Line bundle coming out from the front of the panel.


The panel that is now stuck on the car.

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2005 XJ8L (added by GGG)

 

Welcome to the forum Nikodaemos,

I've copied your question from your Intro to X350 forum for advicde from members here with the same model.

Graham

 

You can always plumb in new lines splicing into the good portions of the old ones, or connection to connection, with all new lines. Have redone the brake lines on a few other vehicles this way, two as well as four wheeled. Routing them along side the old ones, when possible. Then around,instead of behind or under anything large, along the way. Then tying them up with zip ties, wrapped in rubber hose, to protect them from chafing anywhere, it's necessary. Works for me.

 

Yea, I do that with my vehicles if it is a minor issue, but this is my mothers car, and while she knows splices and repairs like that are perfectly viable and often the best way to go, it gives her immense satisfaction knowing that her Jag is not just fixed and driving... but that it is *right*. You know how it is.

 

The blend of metal brake line that i've spoken of, has been required by law in Sweden, as well as many other European countries for years. Better than the steel lines on many new American, & Japanese cars, very easy to work with, & it lasts the life of the vehicle, My wife drives the Honda all the time, never gives it a thought. She knows the replaced lines don't leak brake fluid, and the car stops like always. Except when the old brake lines, developed their leaks.