XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Air Ride Suspension issues.

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Old 02-27-2013, 07:36 AM
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Unhappy Air Ride Suspension issues.

It's been a while, but the old girl is acting up again. My 2004 XJR is sitting pretty low, and is a VERY bumpy ride. The air ride fault light is not on, and it is better than it was when I had a blown rear shock. I'm not above changing more shocks, it was 'shockingly' easy to do in fact. But i'm not entirely sure that is my problem. I heard the pump kick on then off the other day, so I dont believe that is my problem. My dad said that it could be condensation in the air lines due to the changing of the temperatures. He gets this problem at work on locomotives. Anyone hear of this? If so, is clearing the system as easy as bleeding the lines? Or any other suggestions. Thanks!
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:32 PM
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I've moved your question from General Tech Help section to X350 section.

Members here with the same model are best placed to offer advice on the air suspension issue.

Graham
 
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2013, 01:53 PM
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When the car is low, especially in the front, and the ride is bumpy, it's your air suspension shocks! They are worn out and both front ones need replacement.

My car did the same. It would be low and the pump would lift it up only when I switch it off and on again. But it would drop low again while driving, especially on bumpy roads. I replaced the front shocks, bit pricey, and the problem never persisted.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:57 PM
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Of course it could just be the ride height needs re-setting. Always best to try the cheap fixes first. Does the car drop to the bumpstops overnight, and then rise to height when started, or what ?
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:17 PM
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it seems to always be pretty low, but not low enough that the "ride too low" or "air suspension fault" codes come up. Both of which came up when I replaced my rear shocks. And the ride isnt AS bumpy as it was then either. It doesnt seem to rise or lower, except one nice day it was completely fine last week haha. Before that however, it was very low again. How would I re-set the ride height sensor? My local Jaguar dealer...no longer services Jaguars apparently, so it'll be a bit of a drive to get to one if that's the case.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:22 PM
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I know the USA is a big place, so try to find a local independent Jaguar shop. It sounds like suspension needs setting up, then you can check how it behaves such as dropping in height etc.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:37 PM
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Thanks, I have an independent guy down the street that does great work, I was just hoping to see if could be something cheap-as-free before I took it anywhere. I guess i'll give him a call haha
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:02 PM
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The compressor may be running but is it pumping?

How long does the compressor run for? Mine only runs for a 5 or 6 second period and then stops.

You do not have any lights up or messages but I am guessing that the seal may be passing but not bad enough to initiate a code and light.

How many miles on the car and has the compressor been replaced at any time?

It is not a big job to remove compressor and dismantle it to see (feel) how tight the piston is in the cylinder. It's only a Mickey Mouse thing!

Just a thought.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:07 PM
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BTW There is a drier on the compressor which regens when the system exhausts air through the snorkel to atmos.

I have not heard of any problems with water in the lines.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by meirion1
Mine only runs for a 5 or 6 second period and then stops.
Same here, and it never comes back on either.

I've had the opportunity to observe another x350 in my garage with the compressor cycling over and over again...must have hit either a time expiration or triggered an overheat safety stop, not sure. I recommended the seal replacement kit among removal of the standing water and corrosion present in his boot under the spare tire. The SDD showed 3 of the 4 sensors on this particular 2004 to be open or short circuited.
 
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:19 PM
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I often have standing water in the rear, No idea where that's coming from, the Dealer was useless there too. And it would come on for about 5 or so seconds and turn off. I'm thinking it may be one of the front shocks since those are original and the rear have been replaced. But i'll check the compressor. Car has 90k miles on it, and the compressor was done at 60k according to dealer records.
 
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam78
I often have standing water in the rear, No idea where that's coming from, the Dealer was useless there too. And it would come on for about 5 or so seconds and turn off. I'm thinking it may be one of the front shocks since those are original and the rear have been replaced. But i'll check the compressor. Car has 90k miles on it, and the compressor was done at 60k according to dealer records.
Compressor should be ok then.

Check for leaks on front shocks around top pipe connections and around them ie the top of the shock, between shock and body.
If no leaks there it could well be the shock as you say.
 

Last edited by meirion1; 02-28-2013 at 02:20 AM.
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam78
I often have standing water in the rear, No idea where that's coming from, the Dealer was useless there too. .
Check your rear lights. If they are on the loose side which mine were, they tend to let rain enter the trunk/boot area. In fact on my car one bolt was completely missing. Hope this helps.
 
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:00 AM
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Please get the codes read instead of guess work.Just yesterday someone came to me and the car has new shocks, new pump, no leaks, but suspension fault display..code was b1471-headlamp circuit-open circuit(short ground)...Now when you turn the headlights on at the stalk then this code disappears, as soon as the lights are off then the code reappears.To the untrained DIY owner,you wouldnt realize how this code could be related to the suspension,but it is all related.This code is from the air suspension module signal that splices to each headlight assembly sensor.When the signal from one of the headlamps are broken, then the fault is dispalyed.Now the diagnosis is obtained by checking one of the pins from the harness that connects to the underbelly of the assembly..Connect your voltometer to the correct pin,and then rock the car to see the voltage variance fluctuates from the sensor..My point is check the code 1st,see where you need to start and MAKE SURE you know what the code means in relation to what the car is doing.Let me ad, the Jaguar dealership couldnt diagnose this either but it is essential that you research all codes thoroughly.Until next time happy wrenching fellas!
 

Last edited by 912guy; 02-28-2013 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:32 AM
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Andy,
Are you reffering to Ray Catena Jaguar in Ocean Port as no longer servicing Jags? What indi shop in Brick are you using?

I had a traffic cone go thru the front grille of my Jag, Ray Catena Jaguar was totally useless. Ater going there and waiting a week to get a proper estimate, they couldn't even get the model right. I took it to Jack's Auto Body on Route 9 in Lakewood. I got service like I thought I was going to get at Jaguar and a perfect repair.
 
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