Hi Guys,

Happy Holidays.

I had to tackle replacing my aux pump (what a PITA) and thought it would be a good opportunity to install the Andy compressor ring fix. (Compressor was working but I thought it was "sluggish")

Took old compressor apart - ring was good but I thought a "ridge" was worked into the cylinder wall. (not round) I installed the new ring and put all back together and installed.

I re-installed today and I went to tighten the air fitting. It threadded in carefully at first by hand and I did my best not to over tighten. (used flare nut wrench) I started the car and got the:

* Dreadded C 2302 - plausibility error.
* B or C 2810 (new one for me) - from suspension module.

I have WDS - no info on the 2810 code (as shown in WDS) - took a few runs to get WDS to erase the intermittent 2810 code (C2302 was also intermittent - but easily erased)

I re-checked my work, including the air line fitting. When I un-tightened the air line fitting it literally fell out. Upon inspection I observed the metal lined threads intertwined in the brass threads.

I took the compressor out and confirmed - most of the outer female metal threads are gone in the receiving end of the compressor.

I installed a new line nut and olive and didn't over-tighten - never felt secure. I believe it;s supposed to be tightened to 5Nm - still had no success.

Vehicle too low and Air Suspension Fault - C2302

My thoughts:

* Compressor was "on it's way out" to begin with.

* Ridge worn into cylinder wall is a "deal breaker" with the new ring. (not sealing/building adequate pressure)

* Air line threads (female inside compressor) mostly gone not giving a good grip for the air line nut. (again, not allowing compression to build - escaping through air line fitting)

I want to add - this is in NO way any knock on Bagpipingandy's kit - I will say that the quality of the ring that was supplied is far superior to what was in the compressor and highly recommend his kit first for any compressor issues.

(I PM'd Andy to ask him his opinion as well) - it's funny cause I had a bad feeling when I saw the ridge in the cylinder wall... and I could swear I read something that this condition is quite possible when tearing down to replace the ring.

Going to pull the compressor (tomorrow) and tear down again to find more details. (and take some pictures of that and the air line fitting on compressor)

Any thoughts/feedback would be appreciated. (or my experience could be a learning tool in the future)

Thanks - Anthony

 

Hi Anthony,

Sorry to hear about your difficulties with the compressor rebuild. I mentioned a cylinder wear ridge in the caption for Photo 3 in the phototutorial album at the link below, but I think I knew to check for a ridge because I think Andy mentions it in one of his tutorials:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


It might be worth opening your compressor again to be sure that what you thought might be a wear ridge may just be wear in the gray anodizing, which is all it was in our compressor.

I don't know if it would be possible to hone the cylinder and polish it well enough if there was a ridge but that might be worth looking into.

Regarding the air fitting threads, I wonder if you could find a helicoil thread repair kit of the correct size for the threads of the air hose fitting? Compressors are so expensive, it might be worth a shot to repair the threads.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don,

I knew I wasn't going crazy about the wear ridge. I used your tutorial to rebuild my compressor (thanks!)

I felt there was definitely a ridge (very pronounced) I said "it can't work any less with a new ring"...

I'm going to take the compressor out back out tomorrow and disassemble to inspect. I was also thinking 4mm "helicoil" kit to repair the threads but if the cylinder bore is compromised - then there's no point.

The owner before me had the 2 front struts disconnected (and was filling each manually - with tire valves) but had both front air lines still connected to the compressor, (the air lines were "venting" to atmosphere") so I have a feeling this compressor seen a very hard service life.

Additionally, this compressor has a "Jaguar" label on it - so I think this compressor could be original to the car...

I'll let you know what I find out.

Thanks - Anthony

 

Hi Don,

I am "thinking" this out - question...

Putting a dab of vasoline on the o-ring on the line nut wouldn't be a cause for concern regarding sealing, would it?

I'm fairly confident my compressor fail issue(s) are stemming from the stripped threads... and possible ridge.

Thanks in advance for your feedback - Anthony

 

No concern at all. In fact, lubricating O-rings is a commonly-accepted and recommended practice to help the rubber find its proper position as fittings are tightened so it doesn't get pinched and ruined. You did the right thing to lube the O-ring.

The OE O-rings are probably oil-resistant, but not all O-rings are, so I make a practice of using a non-petroleum-based lubricant such as dielectric grease when lubricating O-rings just to avoid possibly contributing to deterioration of the rubber over time.

Cheers,

Don

 

Time for a new compressor, I reckon.

Compresssor - C2C27702 | Jaguar XJ 2003 - 2009 | Jaguar | British Parts UK

Not an outrageous price, I think. There are also used ones on eBay,

2003 ONWARD JAGUAR XJ6 / XJ8 / X350 AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR PUMP 2W93-3B484-AG | eBay

Me, I'd go for a new one. There may be service exchange ones too.

 

Cheapest is to buy a new one from Arnott, $490 and you should be able to get a forum discount...

https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...4_gid1041.html

Check the thread here re discount https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/v...-10%25-127152/ or PM Doug

 

Hi, sorry to hear it has not bee an easy fix,

reasons for poor compressor performance are damaged/scored cyliinder or the no. 1 reason is the piston ring upside down, best to check this 1st, a good compressor if you bench text it with 12v from the car battery, you cannot keep your finger over the outlet after about 10 seconds running, it should build 200psi at that stage. However in your case i think the air will be streaming from the bad stripped thread in the plastic body

be carefull fitting the brass hose fitting as the thread is only plastic and can strip easily, the rubber o-ring actualy does all the sealing if you even just tighten, finger tight.

I have lots of spares and used but good plastic drier bodies if you want to swap the hose stripped thread out, i will have brand new cylinders available very soon too, but not just not yet, im working on it!! i offer refurbished compressors to the Uk but i guess you are further afield, shipping just costs too mush for overseas,


if you need anything just ask

best regards

Andy

 

So, to keep everyone abreast. I took the compressor apart and I installed the piston ring upside down (so I'm feeling like a big *** right now...)

The inside of the piston ring has a notch where the check pin went into the new piston ring...

 

;;don't worry, it happens a lot!! at least you admitted it, that makes you the better man in my book's, you can imagine how many argue it doesn't work, only to find later that its fitted upside down!!
so, anyway the ring should be ok hopefully the marking from the pin doesn't effect it, it should now push good pressure, i would glue the threaded fitting in for now to test it, or fit the new ring in the old compressor you have,

P.S make sure to fit it the piston ring the correct way!!

only teasing!!

if the old compressor is in bad condition i can send you a drier unit plastic body with good thread. If the cylinder is smooth with no markings it can be easily saved.

any questions dont hesitate to ask, I'm here to help!!

best regards

Andy

 

if you pulled the threads I have a rebuilt(BP KIT) compressor Ill sell you for $225 shipped. I normally charge $100 extra for non working or damaged cores and $150+shipping if you decide to go that route. PM me. I have my own XJ's to keep up too

 

Hi Brutal - thanks. I wish I knew this about 48 hours ago (damn) I found a second hand unit, talked the seller down and received it today. The nut is still attached to the air dryer, which is awesome... Going to put the BP piston ring on this unit and install the air line nut ever so carefully.

Question?

Can a compression sleeve (olive) be reused? I had a new nut/olive but for some reason (don't remember) the new olive broke. I carefully removed an olive from my used spare suspension line set I purchased a while back.

If not, I'll have to wait a few days as I ordered 2 more of C2C9930 fittings (one of my rear shocks is leaking at the air line fitting) will tackle that later after I get this sorted. Thanks again - Anthony

 

From what I understand, it may be possible to reuse an olive, but perhaps not advisable, because if it doesn't seal properly and you need to replace it with a new one, you will likely need to trim the end of the air hose to give the new olive an undeformed section of hose to seal against. There's only so much extra length of OE air hose available before you'd need to splice in some extra.

Let us know what you decide and how it goes.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don - my C2C9930 parts are due in on Tuesday, so I'd rather install a new olive (especially after everything that has happened) so one and done. If I'm installing a new nut/olive do I need to slice a bit off the air line or should I be ok?

To your point earlier I'd rather leave the air line alone...

Thanks for all your help.

Anthony

 

If my memory serves, the manual states that about 1/2 inch of the hose should be cut off with a good square cut before installing a new olive, which I assume is to get rid of the spot on the hose that was deformed by the old olive. There is even a special Jaguar tool for cutting the ends of the air hose at 90 degrees.

The info I'm thinking of may be in the Air Suspension section of the dealer training manual that I uploaded to the download library of the forum.

Cheers,

Don

 

hi all,

you can re-use the collet no problem, if you can remove it without breaking it that is!!.
A tip is do not spread it appart, it has teeth to grip the pipe and will slide only one way, not the other, cut the pipe and slide it off.

cut the pipe with proper hose cutters or a sharp knife to prevent "crushing" the pipe out of roundness.

also just for ref, the collet provides no sealing of the joint at all, its job is only to stop the pipe slipping out the brass fitting. The brass fitting has 2 orings inside to seal the pipe, the collet just stops the pipe slipping out. You can actually push the pipe inwards on some joints.

the voss fittings are hard to buy, and when you find them they are expensive. I am working on making some for us DIYers so watch this space!!

merry Christmas all

Andy

 

Just to update...

I installed the second hand compressor today. I checked WDS and the compressor output was around 9 BAR. (not sure if this is good or not) the car raised up.

Can anyone shed light on an intermittent B2810 air suspension code. (I know it is Air suspension vent solenoid circuit malfunction) and no air release after the compressor switched off.

It shows as "intermittent" not a permanent fault - I tried to erase via WDS but keeps coming back - so clearly I have an issue.

Thanks!

 

LATER UPDATE - I sorted the B2810 code. I took the solenoid vent off the compressor. (It was caked with white stuff/rust) For ease - I removed the solenoid from my other compressor (it was slightly caked up but in much better condition) cleaned it and installed and took the Jag out for a drive.

Compressor worked and watched for the vent solenoid to open/close via WDS, which it did.

Only weird thing - I'm not hearing the "woosh" when the compressor turns off. Is this supposed to happen all the time?

Drove around - no issues, no air suspension related code(s) any more and car is perfectly level.

I was able to eventually delete the B2810 code and all is well with the air suspension and as a bonus - I found the pesky air leak that has been depleting the struts over time (RH front air line) I wiggled the like and it came out of the fitting. (olive was "stretched" not fully securing the air line).

New olive and tightened up the air line and the compressor filled the strut up rather quickly.

 

Anthony,

Well done! Sounds like you've resolved your issues!

Any chance you could take photos of the inside of your extra vent solenoid for the benefit of others, perhaps showing how you cleaned the other one?

Regarding the "whoosh," our car does not always vent at shutdown. I don't know under what conditions it will or won't, but I don't think you have to worry about. As long as WDS can open the vent, the ASM should be able to also when it deems fit.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don,

Sure - I will get some pictures up - no problem.

Thanks - Anthony