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Thank you for your explanation.
My situation is the following: I recently changed both of the two front air shocks, but, since the car was down (in the front), I had to change also the compressor: the car is still down for both of the front wheels.
The Jag assistance mechanic thinks that the problem is the new Aerosus compressor which is not a Wabco original and also the right new Aerosus shock is blocked.
An expert friend XJR owner suggested my to function the car with the 4 door closed (also the system doesn't work), but it didn't solved the situation, and now to change the R1 relay (eventually) replacing (just to test) with the R2 relay.
By your wide knowledge, what do you think the solution?
Thany you
I tried the R1 relay but it’s not the solution; furthermore, inserting the relay I didn’t feel any click or other: maybe energy does not arrive?
have you any idea?
My only issue with the air suspension is that when it is very cold (less than 20 degrees F) the front will drop overnight. If left for a few days the rear will eventually drop as well. No fault codes when started and car comes back to normal height and drive fine even in cold weather.
I was thinking it was the front air springs, but now thinking its unlikely they are both failing together and evenly (front drops to the same height on both sides over cold nights). I doubt its compressor related as the car is fine while driving and pumps up just fine when started but I could be wrong. Was debating on converting to coils but would like to keep the air is possible. Once I get into replacing the air springs I'll just convert it, but if it could be soemthing simpler I would definitely like to start there. Any input appreciated.
My 08 VDP also suffers from frontend drop in sub-zero weather. Rides like a log wagon until the system pressurizes. This is the second winter for that to happen, and it hasn't gotten any worse. Obviously related to metal contracting in the cold, but what?
My 08 VDP also suffers from frontend drop in sub-zero weather. Rides like a log wagon until the system pressurizes. This is the second winter for that to happen, and it hasn't gotten any worse. Obviously related to metal contracting in the cold, but what?
Mine air up pretty much right away so no ride issues, but sounds very similar. Interesting that its been doing it for you two years in a row with no outright failure, that's actually good to hear. I would assume its from the front damper seals contracting in the cold and the only way to fix is replacement of the spring units themselves. If it comes to that I'll be converting to coil suspension unfortunately. I don't trust the aftermarket options and it looks like OEM units are around $2k a piece.
Arnotts are available for about $500 each.
Keeps the basic air ride comfort.
Without the fancy adjustment at high speeds.
Just how often do you really need the car to drop at high speed?
Regular coil spring shocks will still give a good ride.
At a better price, without the issues of air.
Either way good luck to you
Arnotts are available for about $500 each.
Keeps the basic air ride comfort.
Without the fancy adjustment at high speeds.
Just how often do you really need the car to drop at high speed?
Regular coil spring shocks will still give a good ride.
At a better price, without the issues of air.
Either way good luck to you
Thank you Wingrider. I have seen the Arnott replacements and have heard mixed reviews. Since I am daily driving the car don't want to take any chances with issues should they arise. I'm leaning towards the Arnott coil conversion over the Spring/Summer since I'll have the suspension apart replacing control arms/bushings anyway. I do really like how the car rides now with the OE air setup, but I wouldn't hate a little more "control" in the suspension if you know what I mean. It does feel nice and stable at speed, but lower speed handling does leave a lot to be desired. I've always driven performance oriented vehicles and while I love the floaty ride of the Jag I think I'd be OK with it stiffening up just a little bit. I hear such mixed reviews on the coil conversions too so I'm torn at this point. I have about 3-4 months to make a final decision and will keep doing research.
Well I just recently bought back my 2009 VDP back from the fellow I sold it to 5 yrs ago. Still in great shape with only 50000kms on it. Still the same 6 yr old Yokohama Avant tires I had put on and the same battery that I replaced at the same time.
I sense that the car is not riding as 'cushionly' as I was expecting. Could it be the tires which only have 17000kms on them or the suspension? Could one of you tell me what the distance should be between the tire top and the fender when first coming to the car in the garage without starting it and then the height while the car is running? Seems to me, and maybe it was only in the warm weather, that when you turn the car on, you would see the front of the car slowly rise. Mind you, right now we are in frigid 3C/38F days and much colder nights and in an unheated garage. The pics below show a steady height of about 1- 1 1/2" whether cold or running.
Would it also be time to consider the various bushings causing a less soft ride?
Thanks folks as usual!
Don't know the exact ride height, but if that's the ride height when running and after being turned off overnight in the cold I'd say the air suspension components are working well. In those temps you'd definitely notice a much lower height after sitting overnight, that looks pretty good.
As far as the tires, 6 years old should not cause any issues but if the car sat a lot they could be flat spotted causing a less than smooth ride. Suspension bushings (if original) are probably due for a refresh due to age if nothing else. My car has similar mileage with original suspension components and while some need replacing once the weather gets warmer the car still rides very smooth with no noise. Actually, my rear tires are about a year old but the fronts have 2014 date codes and the car still rides great.
What is not right about the ride? Noises, vibrations, or just rough over bumps?
I could identify I have a small leak around the airline brass fitting, with soapy water there I can see small bubbles coming up. That was already tight, I tried slowly closing even more and it did not resolve, in fact at some point I saw it was bubbling more like you suggested. I tried loosing it also, altough seemed to reduce the leak, it didn't stop for good.
My question is, is there anything else I should try, and if not, should I replace the brass fitting part? For the latter, is it something relativelly simple I can do myself?
These brass plastic hose connectors have o-rings underneath. There is a thread on this forum mentioning o-ring size. If this o-ring torn or creased it will leak regardless how tight fitting turned.
Let car 'fall asleep' disconnect battery ground. That way you may preserve CATS calibration
Raise car on 4x jack stands. Just to support, no need to raise wheels off ground. That way car will not sit on hard stops on the next step.
Drain air first!
Disconnect plastic hose.
Unscrew fitting.
With small tweezers remove o-ring and inspect it. Replace, if needed!
Connect battery.
Start car.
Let air fill system.
Check fo leaks.
If none, remove jack stands.
Test drive.
You should be all set
Another thought: the plastic hose may be worn in side the fitting.
You will need to do same preliminary steps before disconnecting it from fitting.
Good luck!
01-06-2023, 12:37 PM
