I know there has been a lot posted on this subject; I have read many & may have overlooked what I'm looking for.

Would like your input as to my symptoms & thoughts.

Believe my problem is likely one of the following:
1. Leaking shock
2. leaking air connector
3. leaking compressor
4. faulty relay

Symptoms:
1. Fault light is never on when start the car in the morning, or after a rest.
2. Car does not appear to be low anywhere.
3. Occasionally, will observe front rise at a stop light.
4. Fault light sometimes appears when hit rough road, or after driving about 4, or so, minutes.

So, my conclusion is that something is leaking:

1.Is there a way to get to the compressor? Where is it? Could I soap test to see if the seal is leaking?
2. I will endeavor to soap test the shocks & lines to the extent possible. Any suggestions?
3. Does this sound like it could be the relay? Where is it located? I have read it is in the fuse box on the passenger's side; also that it is in the trunk.

Any other possibilities come to mind?

Thanks so much for your help; I am hopeful of having a little time this weekend to examine &, I hope, find and fix this weekend.

 

I am going to make an educated guess and say that you need to replace the air

compressor seal.The compressor is located in the front bumper on the passenger

side.

You can obtain a replacement seal from Bagpiping Andy on this forum for about $35.

 

I'd guess compressor as well. It's relatively easy to get to, just remove the wheel arch liner on the front left and it's inside the bumper. Hard to miss, 3 bolts, an electrical connector and an air hose. Front shocks are easy to soap test, rears are basically impossible to soap test the actual airbag, but you can remove the lining in the trunk and you'll see the mount points along with the electrical and air connectors at the top of the wheel arch. The trunk lining is just a couple of twistlok screws and weaseling the panels out, helps to pull up on, or remove entirely, the bottom panel covering the battery, spare etc... Of course, if you're on a leak hunt, you may as well be under there as well, pell the spare out, then the foam piece under the spare and you'll see the air suspension reservoir, module, etc.

 

Again, thanks to you both for your excellent help. I suspect I should order a set of compressor seals for when i do need them. If i had them now, I would just replace since i have the shock off the driver's side. But, one thing at a time.

Fascinating how the diagnosis ensued:

I had a little time last night & went into the garage &, fortunately, the left side looked a bit low. I opened the hood and did what i frequently do with things that don't work and began yo jiggle the left side up and down. I could here the air escaping!

Will order the new shock on Monday & let you know how it turns out.

Too soon to

 

Well, now I'm not so sure.

Removed left shock & water tested; no apparent leaks.

I have the battery disconnected & the shock removed.

Trying to decide what to do next. Inclined to put things back together & start over.

However, it is tempting to look at the compressor. Since I don't have the seals; perhaps, I should check the relay? Is there a way to test to see if the seal of the compressor is leaking?

If the compressor works, is it safe to assume that the relay is ok?

Is anyone familiar with the symptoms of a bad relay? I suspect that if the compressor is not engaging, that would be one symptom. Are there others?

Thanks, Steve

 

Hi Steve
The shortest life component on the air spring system is the compressor. Normally it's a worn piston seal, (see 'bagpipingandy' for a kit). Complete compressors are also available at a fair cost on the internet, and its an easy swap over. Compressors are also much cheaper than air springs. I know a lot of US owners seem to have air spring failures, but it's rare here in the UK. Must be our damp and cold weather or something !

The relay can also fail if the compressor is drawing too much current too often. Be aware that the compressor only runs when the ASM decides it needs to; it doesn't come on just because the engine has been started.

I cannot see anywhere that you have read the fault codes. Have you ? The code that normally tells you a compressor is on the way out is C2303.

FWIW a new (service exchange) compressor cured my suspension fault in 2010 and has not recurred. Car has done 40k miles since.

 

Thanks, Fraser! I was just finishing putting her back together when your email arrived.

Lest I forget, I encourage you, if you don't already know them, to take a look at the Arnott site. They provide links to installation of each part. With these well made videos, I was able to remove & reinstall the shock. Could not have done it any easier because of the excellent video!

I suspect we in Seattle have a similarly moist climate. I had started to order a machine recommended by several on this site for reading codes; only about 40-60 US bucks. But, thought I had it nailed when I heard the noise.

I will order that in the morning & see what it says when I get it. Should have one anyway.

Any suggestions on testing the relay? I would think that it is sufficiently inexpensive to just try a new one and see what happens? I will see what I can find on the web.

Not that it matters, but when I re-attached the battery, I felt the rear raise slightly. When I started her up, got "too low" warning.

My 04 Jag has 46K miles

 

A 2004 on 46k means you are into compressor seal wear territory. Mine went at around 33-34k miles, but some seem to last much longer.

The air suspension system is active whilst the battery is connected, and tries to keep the car level, but only with the air in the reservoir when the engine isn't running. So when you reconnected the battery, it immediately tried to level up the car as you saw. Then when you started the engine the system was unable to fully level the car, so you got the message.

 

Additionally, I removed the relay & started her up and got the "AS Fault" error; when I put the relay back in and restarted the read-out was a "too low" error.

I plan to replace the relay since it is so inexpensive & see if there is any difference. If I read Fraser correctly, surging current draw from the compressor could cause the relay to become defective. So, if this is the case, I may be risking damaging it without replacing, or rebuilding compressor.

I hope to find a code reader locally & seek a source for a rebuilt compressor or order the seals from our Bagpiping friend on eBay.

Again, thanks for all the help; will let you know what happens.

 

Get those codes read ! C2303 almost guarantees it is the compressor.

 

Fraser, does this look like a scanner that will work on my vehicle?
CAN & OBD II Deluxe Scan Tool

This one may be locally available. I know that several other forum members have recommended a different one. I have no objection to ordering the one they recommended; however, thought it would be nice to get it today.

Thanks, Steve

 

Sorry, can't say, others will know.

 

This is the one that came highly recommended by others in our forum:ScanTool.net LLC - OBDLink SX Scan Tool/OBD Interface - ScanTool.net

Think I will just order it since it is reasonably priced and has been so recommended...

Thanks again for your kind attention to my queries! Steve

 

Just ordered the above referenced reader; it should arrive Wed. or Thurs. Assuming I get the right code, will order the compressor at the bottom of this page, unless someone has a better suggestion:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...20_pid136.html

 

Hi I have a similar problem with my xj350 2003.
I have had it plugged in and could find no fault, i was also told that this fault that comes up on the display also happen if there is a power drop within the car ie flat battery.
I know sounds a bit mad, but like I say there is no know problem with any part of the compressor or suspension.

 

Thanks, Squeaky.

I usually change my battery by the calendar & there are no indications that the battery may be flat; however, the last couple of years have been such that the battery may have been in longer than 4 years. I will check.

I've already ordered the code reader and should have it by Thursday.

Good luck with your issue; wish i could be more help. Did you try replacing the relay? Costs less than 10 bucks.

 

Would like to know if the scanner can pull-up C-codes...

 

My thought, too; If the system doesn't work and you are not getting codes, I would question if I had the right reader. I should have my reader in a few days; it was very reasonable from mp3 & had great reviews & was recommended on this site.

 

I know this is a bit late but I have used an Autel Maxiscan MS509 OBD 11/EOBD scanner for a couple of years now and am very pleased with its ease of use. Not only does it read the codes but when you have entered the exact model of your vehicle, it will give you a full an detailed translation of what that code it referring too. Also has the ability to be connected to my computer for a complete data download.

I paid less than a $100 new for mine but have seen it listed as high as $370.

 

Received the scanner that was recommended: OBDLink SX

Software,etc. downloaded easily. The scan tool connected to both the computer and the diagnostic connector in the car easily.

The only OBD trouble code I receive is P111 which related to the Engine Control Module ECM

There are no other error codes. Any ideas?