It seems that the vendor is selling the wrong relay for our car. Already today the new one has arived - exactly the same strange clicking. I didn't try to drive with it because I'm sure that I would have the same fault.
So, I've driven today around 100 Km with the old relay - no amber light!

 

Quick query, replaced piston ring and ask all good. Air suspension working fine. Thought I'd come back and change the chamber also as it was worn and I'd replace the desiccant. Generally clean it up. Did so. But warnings again now and not pumping (serves me right). Took apart to have a look. New housing badly scratched along the direction of travel. So put old housing back, new piston ring again. Still not working. So I added 12v directly while on the car to get the car up again so I could drive home. While doing this changed the relay and realised the fuse was blown. All replaced now. Car makes the pump work like it should. But I'm getting resivior and level plausibility error. Car seems higher than normal. Think I overdid when I manually added the air thinking there'd be a release valve. One thing I might have got wrong is the solenoid central magnet. I wasn't sure which way round it went (I'd appreciate it if someone remembered) Anyway it'll be the 4th time it's come off and the last time before I buy a new one. Any wise opinions?

 

Not real sure this compressor.
But often, much like reassembling a weapon.
Things seem to fit together easily, one way.

 

Hi Wildtypitch,

I'm mystified that the new cylinder was scored so quickly and have to wonder if your new piston ring/seal may have picked up some sort of contamination such as metal or corrosion particles?

The piston ring/seal must be installed in the correct orientation. Here's a photo showing the way the split in the ring must fit around the roll pin:





Did you inspect the condition of the leaf valve on top of the piston? It can sometimes become damaged and if so, the compressor cannot produce pressure:





The check valve in the cap of the desiccant bed cylinder must be cleaned and properly reassembled:




I don't remember which direction the magnet goes in the exhaust solenoid valve, but you can test the valve by powering it directly with a 9-volt battery. It should open and allow pressure to release from the system.

One method other members have used successfully when their system has become overcharged is to loosen the air hose fittings at the tops of all four air springs and allow most of the air to escape. The pressure-retaining valves should maintain a minimum pressure in the air bladder unless the valve rotates with the air hose fitting and air escapes around the valve instead of through the valve. Once you have reduced the air pressure in all four air springs, start the engine and allow the system to recharge. Often, the vehicle will raise back to the correct ride height.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the lengthy reply. Yes deposits in the piston ring are likely. A lot of residual rust remained from that desiccant chamber spring. just hooked up the SSD yesterday and started the suspension geometry pre run and the deflate, front rear, and tank. And the calibration. The car can't release pressure and still stands very proud. The pump was working for a couple of blasts in the calibration so I guess it's at full height now. Slightly concerned that driving at full height might put the struts under unsure pressure but I don't want to start fiddling manually releasing air as I've got to get to Hastings some 2 hours away to get use of a ramp and do some other stuff. Solenoid valves now I know don't have magnetised cores. I think it's A 3 way valve so only controls a small pressure that equalises the pressure in a chamber that contains the valve. If it can't shut that small pressure then I guess it would always be open, so I don't know. It's not open. Pretty obvious to me now it's the coil that does the magnetism, du. So don't think it's the won't way round. thinking the pressure in the system is too high to overcome. I really don't want to start releasing valves on every strut so thinking just decoupling the compressor and releasing that pressure it generated will work. But I believe there might be check/one way valves. Failing that I'll look to the solenoid block to release pressure. Good to know that after 3 weeks I've not lost any height though.