Did any water come out when you disconnected the air line at the compressor? In my case, I got quite a bit of water, and the dryer chamber (the section where the desiccant beads live) was actually a water tank. Passage in the compressor were rusted out. I made no effort to dry the system. With that much water circulating through, I acknowledged that the system was knackered and needed everything, which I wasn't willing to buy. Went to coilovers and the car became better than at any time I'd ever had it.

You would do better, in my opinion, especially if there was a significant amount of water in the compressor, to replace it rather than try to recondition it. At that point, you'll start troubleshooting the next link in the chain of broken dying pieces. Water is the enemy of the system, and its capacity to prevent water entry is quite limited, actually.

It becomes a value judgement. A compressor is a significant fraction of a full set of coilover struts. Coilovers will last pretty much until the car doesn't run any more, where the air system will need constant periodic replenishment; new struts, leak fixes, valves, lines, whatever. The life of the system from the factory seems to be about 8 to 10 years. The life of a reconditioned system is less. The car has a certain value, and a working air system vs coilovers does not significantly, or even at all, increase that value. Acknowledge that and live happier, I say.

 

Thanks for the explanation. It is really nice to see all the replies and ideas. (ain't feeling abandoned with my Jag in Africa :-))) )

The workshop has two compressors which they use for their tools ..So i think we can do these "manual injections" into each shock.
Two questions:
1- Do I need to make an adapter with a valve which I will fit at the top of each shock ?? (so it secures the air once I unplug the compressor pipe)
or just a right diameter adapter and no valve needed (as there is one inside the shock) ???
2- any clue on the right diameter and threat? (otherwise we will just try to match it locally and find the right size).

Thanks a million again.

 

... while waiting for the new compressor and repair kit, following the suggestion of @JCalhoun (to try to inflate each shock individually with external compressor and check for leaks)
In order to do this, my friend has brazed a connector with valve which is going to fit on top of the shock, where air line normally goes in.
trying it on the "old shock" .. let see if it works on the car.. ?!




Old damaged shock... trying the fittings.. and inflating process. ("inflation" heheheh )

 

Be aware that the rear shock fittings are a different size than the fronts.

 

quick question - do you guys see the photos I post ?
somehow, when I open the post from my office computer, I can not see any photos on the this thread

 

Thanks for drawing my attention to this.
I suspected this, but haven't double checked yet.

 

That boot may be indicative of a blown pressure bag on that strut. Yes, the boot is not there to hold any pressure, it's just a dust cover, but if the actual bag pops, it can blow the boot just like that.

 

Right, and Ii have substituted that blown strut... and that's when all "not rising" problem started.
Delivery of the new compressor is delayed by 2 days. should be coming on Tuesday only.

UPDATE on "direct manual pumping":
- we have managed to make 4 individual valves to test each strut.. (measure, turn, braze, teflon tape.... the whole "magic" ). YES, rear fitting were different to front ones. (will post photos later)
Tested by individually pupming each shock.
Results:
1. both front shocks (original and replaced one inflated and front rose to more or less right hight)
2. managed to pump in about 7-7.5bars into each strut.
Interesting that front only started rising after pressure when over 7 bars.
3. rear shocks - having trouble to get more that 6-6,5 bars in.
Especially rear right strut - it feels rock hard and does not to accept any air in.
(while rear left for some air in, not leaking and feels soft when push down on the back, right side - no way.. seems like it is "blocked", although inside pressure is arround 5-6bars.

Note - we are pumping directly into the strut, by passing valve-block and reservoir.

Any ideas on what could be done to the rear strut? Why is it not accepting any air?
(our external compressor should be able to pump to about 8 bars)
p.s. All the credits of making this should go to my friend ! Richard - thanks ! I am more of unskilled-junior apprentice

 

Valmoz, I think the system requires over 10 bars to work properly. You need a compressor that can make 10-12bars. Add air to each shock until the car rises to normal height. Then make sure there are no leaks around the fittings you made. Then leave it overnight. If all the shocks hold air and the car is still sitting at the proper height in the morning then the shocks are good and your problem is somewhere else.

Good Luck
Jeff

 

Finally, managed to get the rear struts individually inflated and figured out the problem (at least I think so) - rear right strut has developed a major leak. The leak is so big, it got “deflated” in seconds. So, in addition to the compressor (already ordered) will buy a pair of rear struts/shocks and see if all goes back to normal.

Now, an explanation on why we could not get the rear struts inflated earlier...(as for me a really peculiar situation!) :
- The problem was not the pressure as such, but turned to be the length of the individual fittings we made. Fittings were too long and seemed to block/"seal off” the air intakes (two small openings) in the strut. When fully tight, no air was getting into the shock. Once we loosened the fitting by about 2 turns, and tried inflating, struts inflated right away. Back of the car rose... ..... but dropped right side almost immediately. (literally in seconds ) . We could hear the air oozing out somewhere around the tyre/rim area. This happened only on side (one shock). Unbelievable but a fact.

Lessons learned :
a) make your fittings strong and tight but NOT too long (thread part);
b) one can really feeling/see struts rising with pressure of around 7 bars. (actually workshop manual says “operating pressure is 7-8bars” )
c) get an external compressor which can generate at least 8 bars! anything below that will be almost a waste of time.

will update this once i receive and fit new compressor and rear struts.
btw, can I fit only one new rear strut, right?

 

You can put whatever you want on the car. Some have put a standard and a sport on the front. Said they really could not tell by driving.
But it is preferred to not mix struts. If you are putting a new strut on the rear, you might be better to put a new one on the other side. Same with brands.
Many have commented how the install of new struts made the car drive like new. Think this is one of the reason coil overs get such good reviews. New dampers and not 15 year old dampers with zoomie mileage. These Bilstein definitely wear out.
Also a friend who runs a tire shop feels the fronts are more important in ride quality than the rears. If not cupping tires worn rear shocks are okay.

 

Valmoz,

Good Work! I think you are making really good progress. These systems are very hard to diagnose unless you separate the shocks from the system and test them.

Keep going!
Jeff

 

I went though my air suspension and put a detailed explanation together including Part numbers and thread sizes.
In my case it turned out to be the valve block in the trunk that was leaking like crazy and made my air suspension failing.

here is the link:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2459923

Post number #40 in this thread
It maybe not important for now since you fixed yours but whoever stumbles over this post in the future will maybe find this helpful.

 

hi SJ9809, thanks a lot for contributing with your knowledge.

Allow me a correction - I have not fixed my problem YET.
So far only determined that I will need a new compressor and at least one rear strut. Ain't sure if that's going to be enough
therefore, all advises are more than welcome !

p.s. talking about valve body - I have taken out what I think is the pressure sensor (right side) . Did not dismantle valve body from the place. No water came out but some tiny rust-like pieces came from the sensor. a little of them, nevertheless...
Would it be indication that valve body is rusting and I should get a new one as well?

 

Hi Val mos,
in my post I explained how I even test the valve for leaking.
if you put the sensor back in you can simply pressurize each inlet in the valve and see if you get a pressure drop. Without power all valves should be closed which means no pressure drop.
As I mentioned I paid $129 for a new valve block including the sensor. If you have already rust particle in the valve block it’s probably not a good sign.
Iam sure you get Jaguar parts around every corner in Mozambique… I would test it before I buy a new one.
As described in my post you can test every single loop including the connections with a setup in the trunk.
i think getting Festo type push to connect fittings shouldn’t be to difficult!?
i referenced McMaster part numbers in my post wich is a large industrial distributor in the US, Iam sure you can get these also at local industrial distributors in Mozambique.
i worked with local distributors even in Mozambique a few years ago when we sold large equipment to one of the mines for a stacker reclaimer…

 

It very helpful. Thank you. will do try it out over the weekend.

It is actually quite contrary. There are almost NO Jaguars here. Jag's like mine (XJ (X350)) are probably 2 or 3 in town.
Local JLR dealer is useless and scary. Besides expensive and sloppy jobs, they have chipped wood on my door trim, and punctured leather on the driver's seat. It has been a year that i am waiting for the replacement. Hope it will be done on their cost.

That's very interesting that you have worked/supplied to Moz. There is/was a lot of mining activity happening north of the country.

By the way, I find it that a lot of suppliers on e-bay are not willing to do international shipping, especially to Africa.
That makes finding spares a lot more difficult.
For instance, i have decided to buy upper control arms, stabilizer link and some bushes for my suspension.. in order to get back proper riding comfort. Can NOT get parts locally. Need to import, buying on the internet. :-(

 

Lol… it was meant sarcastic that there are a lot of dealers in Mozambique.
i find it amazing that you are driving a xj8 in Mozambique, you must love the car… which I can understand because it is a great car.
Iam surprised that there are actually Jaguar dealers.
When we worked in Mozambique we worked also with South African distributor, at this time South Africa had actually good availability…