Air Suspension Shock Tester For Leaks For Loan
#21
Herman A the following from an earlier post I mad on this topic.
Here’s the link to my older post from 7/2013 describing what I made withpictures and parts #’s if you want to make your own and below are the two newparts which are both Gates pieces with the following descriptions and NAPA part#’s.
Link for 2013 post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...90/#post772872h
New parts required for rear shocks: G31100-25023/8” pipe coupling & G60631-0202 slip-fit adaptor
With those and a short piece of the appropriate sized and type of 1/8” pressure hose as well as the fitting from the top of a blown shock you can make a tester of your own.
OR
You can message forum member John Tuberville and he’ll send the one I’m sending him to the nextmember in line for a nominal fee to cover his investment just as I have done with him.
Here’s the link to my older post from 7/2013 describing what I made withpictures and parts #’s if you want to make your own and below are the two newparts which are both Gates pieces with the following descriptions and NAPA part#’s.
Link for 2013 post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...90/#post772872h
New parts required for rear shocks: G31100-25023/8” pipe coupling & G60631-0202 slip-fit adaptor
With those and a short piece of the appropriate sized and type of 1/8” pressure hose as well as the fitting from the top of a blown shock you can make a tester of your own.
OR
You can message forum member John Tuberville and he’ll send the one I’m sending him to the nextmember in line for a nominal fee to cover his investment just as I have done with him.
#22
Does anybody here can say what are the thread sizes on the air suspension parts.
I only want to know the thread size and type no part numbers...
1) Thread size Front struts
2) Thread size Rear struts
3) Thread sizes on the Valve block in the trunk, i assume these are the same used on the struts. As you can see Rear is small than front struts.
Can anybody help?
I only want to know the thread size and type no part numbers...
1) Thread size Front struts
2) Thread size Rear struts
3) Thread sizes on the Valve block in the trunk, i assume these are the same used on the struts. As you can see Rear is small than front struts.
Can anybody help?
#24
Hi All,
I have a related but slightly different question: My valve block itself is leaking at the seams (between the aluminium part and the black plastic part).
I have ordered a "new" unit from the UK.
I am very scared of swopping it out and messing up something and ending up stranded with the car flat on its belly.
So my question is:
What should I expect & be careful of when I loosen & remove the copper pipe fittings from the valve block?
Is it a simple matter of undoing them with the right spanner, and they come out with the pipe intact?
Is there any danger of stripping the thread or otherwise causing damage to the pipe system, or ending up with a leak at those fittings (there are none at the moment)?
Any pointers on this daunting procedure will be highly appreciated
Regards
Leon
I have a related but slightly different question: My valve block itself is leaking at the seams (between the aluminium part and the black plastic part).
I have ordered a "new" unit from the UK.
I am very scared of swopping it out and messing up something and ending up stranded with the car flat on its belly.
So my question is:
What should I expect & be careful of when I loosen & remove the copper pipe fittings from the valve block?
Is it a simple matter of undoing them with the right spanner, and they come out with the pipe intact?
Is there any danger of stripping the thread or otherwise causing damage to the pipe system, or ending up with a leak at those fittings (there are none at the moment)?
Any pointers on this daunting procedure will be highly appreciated
Regards
Leon
#25
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Hi Leon
First of all I suggest that you photograph the valve block so that
you know which pipe goes where when you replace the valve block.
You could even remove one pipe and fit it in the new valve block in the same position
one by one if you see what I mean.
I would expect the pipe to come out complete with the olive attached then you
just insert it in the right port on the new block and screw it down.
Not too tight- you can always leak test later and tighten a bit more if it leaks.
Use the right size open ended spanner and when refitting the pipe
start the by inserting the fitting with your fingers.
If it gets very tight do not proceed but remove it and try to start it again
If you proceed and the thread is very tight you could cause damage.
It's not difficult to do and you will be pleased by a job well done when you have finished.
First of all I suggest that you photograph the valve block so that
you know which pipe goes where when you replace the valve block.
You could even remove one pipe and fit it in the new valve block in the same position
one by one if you see what I mean.
I would expect the pipe to come out complete with the olive attached then you
just insert it in the right port on the new block and screw it down.
Not too tight- you can always leak test later and tighten a bit more if it leaks.
Use the right size open ended spanner and when refitting the pipe
start the by inserting the fitting with your fingers.
If it gets very tight do not proceed but remove it and try to start it again
If you proceed and the thread is very tight you could cause damage.
It's not difficult to do and you will be pleased by a job well done when you have finished.
#26
Thanks Meirion1!
I will follow your advice to the T.
Now that I read about the olive - so it is like normal plumbing, only in miniature? I thought I saw an O-ring in a picture somewhere and was wondering if it should be replaced.
About letting the pressure out - can I just loosen them a little and wait for the air to escape before continuing? And should I put some supports under the car at the jack points to make sure it does not sag dangerously low? Or is there no potential damage to the air struts or otherwise, if all the pressure is released while the car is on its wheels?
(I am about to make 4 little wood blocks that fit under the car at the jack points, so that until I get the new block it won't sag too low, and also while doing the job the car can rest on them and not damage the air bladders - but is that a concern at all?)
Regards
Leon
I will follow your advice to the T.
Now that I read about the olive - so it is like normal plumbing, only in miniature? I thought I saw an O-ring in a picture somewhere and was wondering if it should be replaced.
About letting the pressure out - can I just loosen them a little and wait for the air to escape before continuing? And should I put some supports under the car at the jack points to make sure it does not sag dangerously low? Or is there no potential damage to the air struts or otherwise, if all the pressure is released while the car is on its wheels?
(I am about to make 4 little wood blocks that fit under the car at the jack points, so that until I get the new block it won't sag too low, and also while doing the job the car can rest on them and not damage the air bladders - but is that a concern at all?)
Regards
Leon
#28
#29
I would disconnect the battery. Also be aware that the tubes do wear from putting them off and on. You can trim the end of the tubing a bit if you have enough slack if you get a leak and can't get it stopped. Be sure and use a sharp razor blade and make the cut straight across the tubing.
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#30
Withe all due espect to clubairth1, I do not see what possible benefit there is to disconnecting the battery, which will require re-configuring the Throttle Body, the Park Brake and the Window Auto open shut in order to simply to prevent action from the Air Suspension Module? This can be simply be isolated by removing fuse number 52 from the rear fuse box?
#31
#32
Thanks All,
Sounds like I should go for the fuse only.
What does reset & reconfigure mean? By a dealer, or does the car do it himself over time?
Does it mean when changing the battery all those things must also be done?
I ask because the plan is to re-do the leather on the steering wheel, and the auto trimmer said they disconnect the battery to avoid issues with airbags etc.
Thanks & Regards
Sounds like I should go for the fuse only.
What does reset & reconfigure mean? By a dealer, or does the car do it himself over time?
Does it mean when changing the battery all those things must also be done?
I ask because the plan is to re-do the leather on the steering wheel, and the auto trimmer said they disconnect the battery to avoid issues with airbags etc.
Thanks & Regards
#33
The risk of disconnecting the battery is that when you reconnect and "wake" the car you want the height measuring sensors to be at the exact same spot, if you replace the valve block and let the air out then that won't happen. - the suspension will need recalibration, possibly dealer level.
Not sure about the fuse method, if it were me would get all 4 wheels off the ground first so it "wakes" in the same position
Not sure about the fuse method, if it were me would get all 4 wheels off the ground first so it "wakes" in the same position
#34
Anyone in Australia got a tool like this?
We can't figure out why the suspension is dropping new struts l,compressor and distribution block
Lines leak tested struts sprayed with soapy water no codes
She takes about 3 days and she's on the stumps s
Start engine or compressor she goes straight up stays up for couple days
If I drove her every day wouldn't have known but only use her sporadically
I have used one of my old struts to swap over and test but a kit like this would be a godsend even if a drawing on how to make my own version would be a nice thing
Regards doc
We can't figure out why the suspension is dropping new struts l,compressor and distribution block
Lines leak tested struts sprayed with soapy water no codes
She takes about 3 days and she's on the stumps s
Start engine or compressor she goes straight up stays up for couple days
If I drove her every day wouldn't have known but only use her sporadically
I have used one of my old struts to swap over and test but a kit like this would be a godsend even if a drawing on how to make my own version would be a nice thing
Regards doc
#35
My suspension doesn't go down, currently. But it used to over days to weeks. I didn't do anything. My X-Ray eyes, or imagination, says there was a speck of dust in the valve block since cleared. (because it's the only "moving part" in this aspect).
Last edited by ChrisMills; 05-01-2022 at 12:49 AM.
#36
Well read the above comments because they did post good reasons NOT to disconnect the battery. I do just because the car is so complex I can't be sure that removing a fuse labeled for the air suspension is the ONLY fuse involved with the air suspension system? Yes it's labeled as such but these systems are all integrated and connected to each other.
If your anywhere close to getting an emissions check you DO want to keep ALL the monitors in the completed state if possible as it can be a real bear trying to get them to set in a short period of time!
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If your anywhere close to getting an emissions check you DO want to keep ALL the monitors in the completed state if possible as it can be a real bear trying to get them to set in a short period of time!
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#39
#40
I've got a few cars like 7 lol and 3 bikes always got something to drive or ride the XJ is not my everyday. I only use 8t if I'm going somewhere. short trips and traffic no thanks.I'd rather drive or ride something I'm not worried about getting damaged
Last edited by doc; 05-03-2022 at 07:44 AM.