TRANSMISSION FAULT, DSC Not available, PARKBRAKE FAULT, AIR SUSPENSION FAULT, etc all listed.

I expect this is as a result of a low battery situation that I caused.

Left lights on last night and it would appear to have caused my issue as I had none prior.
Normally lights are in AUTO and no issues but last night had switched them on and left them.
This morning, they still were light and even putting key in dash lit up.
I have put the battery on charge and it reads 14.1V
I have removed the battery connections and shorted the terminals in case of any residual charge.

I am able to turn lights on/off, radio is fine, lock/unlocking is fine, electric brake works fine.
Not able to move out of park.
Guess there is a main CPU/CAN bus computer issue and not sure what to reset now.

Am not able to get OBD port connection power to read any codes.
Have checked all fuses in trunk and all fuses under hood.
There is 12V to the main 80A fuse in Enngine

I think that coincidentally getting an additional fault that is simultaneous to a low battery that I induced is unlikely.
I suspect it must be some compute start up issue that I do not understand.

Any suggestions?

 

Here is a thread that describes a similar problem to what you are having. You may be able to get it out of park manually so you can address the other issues.














https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ut-park-56488/

 

Does the Engine Start?

With Key turned to position II (ignition on), do you get 12V to Fuse 12 and 13 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box?

 

Hi dsetter,

You symptoms do sound like the result of low battery voltage. Obviously, not all of those systems decided to malfunction simultaneously.


[QUOTE=dsetter;1222902]I have removed the battery connections and shorted the terminals in case of any residual charge.[QUOTE]

I assume you shorted together the terminals on the battery cables and not the terminals on the battery itself? Did you keep the cable terminals touching each other for at least 1 full minute?


Do you mean that your OBD scanner will not "see" that it is connected to your car? I just took a glance at the 2004 X350 Electrical Guide and it appears the OBD Port (Data Link Connector or DLC in Jaguar terminology) receives battery power from Fuses 16 and 43 in the Passenger Junction Fuse Box at the passenger-side A-pillar. You might check those fuses, and as Cambo puts it, "If you're brave," you can check for 12V at the DLC itself. See the pinout info from Cambo in this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-power-142401/


It is possible, if unlikely, that all the stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are U (Undefined, mostly network-related), B (Body) or C (Chassis) codes rather than the P (Powertrain) codes that standard OBDII scanners can read. To read the Jaguar-proprietary U, B and C codes requires a dealer-level system like IDS or SDD, or a high-end third party system like AutoEnginuity with the extra Jaguar module.

Don

 

[QUOTE=Don B;1223107]Hi dsetter,

You symptoms do sound like the result of low battery voltage. Obviously, not all of those systems decided to malfunction simultaneously.


[QUOTE=dsetter;1222902]I have removed the battery connections and shorted the terminals in case of any residual charge.Thanks for inputs but I suspect something more now.
I have volts on the ecm fuses in the engine bay.
Actually checked all in engine bay, trunk and interior

I had received a few weeks back a copy of the SDD, and set it up running V130. It reports no response from ECM.
It gives an option to try and reestablish communications remove negative lead, reattach and after 2s click check, but still refund communications failure.
If I try checking immobilization, I get a "testman error" with numbers 12 57 19761.
Wonder what these mean?
I am able to read and program other modules and dealer level settings so it seems the install and mongoose is working.

Are there any thoughts on further checking the ECM?
Pretty sad that there is a seeming complete system failure.

 

Silly question but did you have the ign on II when you did the scan

Cheers
34by151

 

No questions are silly at this stage, but yes I did go to position 2 after the counter went to 00:00:02 and before 10 s.

I wonder if I killed the module when I jumped the car? It was another jag, cats should play nice.

Is there a lending library of ECMs?

 

It is unlikely that you killed the ECM.

You didn't answer my original questions, and I'll be more able to help if you do:

Does the Engine Start or Turnover?

With Key turned to position II (ignition on), do you get 12V to Fuse 12 and 13 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box?

 

Hi, and thanks for continued offer to help.
Engine does not turn over. No click, no sounds.
Instruments stay on - all systems fault messages are displayed.
In start position, radio/entertainment system blank out as normal.

There is 12V on fuses 12/13 in engine fuse box.

 

OK. Next question.

When you turn the ignition switch to position II, what does the PATS indicator do?

 

As soon as I go to position II, it lights as a steady red, as the instrument panel powers up, and then goes off as the various fault messages start to be displayed. It stays off, no subsequent flashes.
If I lock the car with the remote, I get one single flash per second.
If I unlock the car, with the remote, the doors open as normal, the 1s flash stops.
I have 2 keys, same behavior with both.

 

OK, it doesn't sound like you have PATS fault, but to confirm, it stays lit for 3 seconds then goes off, right?

Next, you'll need to see if the cable that connects the shifter to the transmission has come off (apparently a common issue). Unfortunately, that means getting under the car. Here is a picture of how it should look if everything is correct:

 

Oh and when you turn the key to Ignition II does the "P" on the J-gate light up red?

How old is your battery, and are you certain it is fully charged and holding a charge?

EDIT: Since you've got IDS/SDD hook it up and put in the symptoms of won't start, won't turnover, etc. and then report to us what DTCs the system is reading.

 

OBD to PCM needs: ignition II (or engine running) and fuse(s) for OBD to be good and OBD wiring also good. The fuse(s) are easy to overlook and OBD bent pins likewise.

With ignition II there should be volts at the DLC (OBD port) pins 4 or 5 to 16

 

I've found that my simple OBD reader only reads a few engine codes and not much else. My nearest Jaguar dealer is 3 hours away and the only independent shop in my area with the software to read Jaguar codes charges $100 just to hook up to the OBD port and read the codes. And nobody seems to sell the code reading software for a reasonable price. Jaguar ownership is a challenge for gearheads.

 

First off - I want to say a big thank all those that help out here and provide their inputs - They are all welcome. I try to reciprocate as far as my capabilities extend, and I do not think they are to shabby. I will write up whatever I find after this does get resolved.
This board is the most polite, competent and professional I have had the chance to be associated with. Must be something that goes with the cars.

The PATS light comes on steady for a good 2+s, before going off. The Park is lit steady as well.
Battery is good, 12.8V on battery and there is a supplemental supply on it. Actual voltage on the Engine fuse bay fuses was 12.46V
Have not checked the actual voltage at the OBD port - yet.

Attached are the screen grabs from my SDD after running "Engine-no start" diagnosis.
Am still finding my way around the software - it is not bad, but not at all modern, steeped in history I guess.
If I did this right I got the following.
Starting with
Version V130.03V.109
Reading modules
Error
DTC (U1262 Communications Bus Fault)
DTC Help
Overall module status diagram with red X on ECM.

Additional image is the results of Communications Failure tests
U2523, U2023, U1027, U1134, U2523, U1797

Somewhere during this process it also went through the trying to reestablish communications with the Ignition off, Negative lead off, OK, Negative on, Check OK and wait 2s and then ignition on, but then the failure to communicate.

Have not yet gone under the car to check the transmission at this time, yet.

 

Ill look up the codes for latter today

Can you also let us know what occurred just prior to the fault

Cheers
34by151

 

What you are reporting and the DTCs you are seeing is consistent with the ECM not powering on or establishing ground as it should when you switch to Ignition II.

The other possibility is water ingress to the ECM due to a blocked drain.

On the passenger side in the engine compartment back at the cowl, there is an access panel where the cabin air filter assembly resides. Check if there is any water in there, and if the drain is blocked.

If it is bone dry in there, you'll have to remove the entire cabin air filter assembly to gain access to the ECM harness and the ECM ground points.

The ground/earth points can suffer corrosion, and should be cleaned.
WARNING - these are aluminum nuts on aluminum studs and can be snapped off with very little torque. Be careful.

If cleaning the ground doesn't work, you'll want to remove the ECM harness connector, which requires a security torx bit (I can't remember if it is 5 or 6 point). After removing the harness you'll be able to pin test if you are getting 12v to the ECM. I don't have the schematics in front of me to tell you what pins, but you'll want to download them yourself and familiarize yourself with the pin locations and the ground/earth points.

Do your testing on the harness side not the ECM so you don't risk the ECM.

 

I am familiar with where the ECM is as last year I replaced the SC valley coolant hose and had that cabin intake air vent and screen trim strip off. While there I cleaned out the various leaves etc, bit overall it was pretty clean.

Being in California too (SJ area) we have not had much rain for several years but on the night this issue started, there was some rain, but not much. I have look into that area under the trim and there was no water, I know the S types suffer from this a lot in some locations.

I will now check for potential at the ECM connector pins directly.
I had considered the Earth points, I saw two obvious points, 1 near the fuse block and another behind the headlights.
Before cleaning these, I checked for any potential between the wire connector itself and a known good chassis ground, while the cct was power up and there was none (mV only), but I still loosened and cleaned. (I have thought about going through and using the Al anti-oxidant creams used by electricians. Will go check others again.

I have pulled the schematics down and printed the ground and supply and connector pin outs.
Looks like ground is all the black lines P11-005,017,018,029,054,091,004,030,111,116,081,082
B+ Supply is on P11-22 Continuous and switched on P11-7 (Ignition) (EMS) 23,24
CAN on P11-123,124

 

The ground point for the ECM is quite close to the ECM itself. IIRC, you have to remove the cabin filter assembly to have access to it.