Alternator's change write up.
I went through this today I want to write about it since it's still fresh in my mind.

1. Disconnect battery
2. With a 3/8 inch drive either breaker bar serpentine tool or rachet, put it in. The 3/8 inch square and turn counter clockwise so that the pulley moves. Remove the serpentine belt so it's no longer tight.
3. Chock back wheels and Lift the car up and hold with Jack stands.
4. Remove under carriage. Black plastic thing. There is a couple of screws in the front. A couple of nuts in the middle l and two bolts on each side towards the black of the plastic thing.
5. Remove air duct for alternator. 2 screws 7/32 I believe.
6. Remove radiator splash shield. Pretty straight forward.
7. Remove nut holding passenger side engine mount. 15 mm.
8. With a piece of 2x4 on the Jack. Put the Jack underneath the oil pan and Jack up engine about 3 inches.
9. Remove the engine mount support bracket. 4 13 mm bolts. The top left was the trickest for me required 2 3/8 extensions and slot of elbow grease. It urns out it was installed cross threaded. Once done remove the bracket with the engine mount and put aside.
10. Disconnect the nut holding the cable to the alternator. 13mm
11. Disconnect the electrical connection in the back of the alternator. The lock tab is on top of the connector no believe you have to squeeze it.
12. There is a cable running behind the alternator. It is attached to the frame with plastic tabs. Separate it from the frame.
13. Remove the bottom alternator nut 15 mm.
14. Move a bit back so you have a better angle at the top bolt. You should be behind a cross member where the rack and pinion is.
15. With a short 1/4 drive ratchet with a an extension and a 13mm socket. Look for the nut on the top of the alternator. If you follow the electrical wiring you separated from the frame it is located on the top. The electrical wiring is in the way and you have to move it to the right.
16. Push through the bolt at the bottom of the alternator. The one you removed the nut on step 13. If it's tight you can unscrew it with a 13mm socket from the front.
17. With a screw driver and anything else you can jam in there separate the bottom of the alternator from the bracket on the car.
18. Grab the alternator off the top bolt and remove it.
19. This step was a doozy for me. However, I'm probably the only person in the world. I ran the new alternator through the top bolt but I couldn't get the bottom of the alternator between the bracket on the bottom. If I removed the top bolt (4mm), I got the alternator to drop in but I don't have enough hands to keep the bottom of the alternator aligned and be able to push the bolt through. I was stuck her for a long time until I decided to grind a little bit of the bottom of the alternator where the bolt goes through. I reinstalled the top bolt ran through the alternator and the bottom fell right into place and the bolt ran right through.
20. From here out just work in backwards order. I have also attached the part from the service manual that explains the process. My frustration with it is it doesn't give any details such as nut sizes etc...

 

Sounds like you have accomplished your task, nice work
I have rebuilt the alternators on my vehicles for years.
The parts are a lot less than a new one.
Not hard to do, or take to a shop to have them rebuild it
Many times the brushes are all that wore out.
How many hours did it take start to finish?

 

You got the job done by the look of it.

I much prefer an engine lift bracket assembly to do the job plus I did not have to lift the engine by as much as 3" to do the job.

Alternator went in with no issue and no filing required.

The engine support bracket is in two pieces and if you separate the two pieces it comes out more easily.