Have not had an opportunity to look at the manual or codes yet, but on these cars is that just a reminder for service, or indicator of something more sinister?

Not seeing the red or yellow LED in the dash, just the little engine symbol.

Will check it more thoroughly tomorrow when i get time and report back here, but was curious if its just an oil change reminder.

cheers
Adam

 

No, the check engine light is indicating an engine malfunction. Solid color, it's important. If it's also flashing, shut off the engine ASAP as the problem is emergent.

 

cool thanks Sean - yeah just solid. I was home anyway, just shut er down and will look it over tomorrow.

 

still waiting on my scanner to arrive, should be here tomorrow. Had to make a brief trip today. CEL is still on, just solid. This time I got a "restricted performance" message which went away after a few minutes. I didn't actually notice any restriction in performance, but it was just a short trip up the road and back in town.

i won't likely drive it any more till i get the codes, but why would the restricted performance message come and go like that?

 

Hard to guess without the codes. A lot of different issues can launch restricted mode.

 

I read them then cleared them and forgot to take a screenshot... grrrrr... long day. Anyway, there were 4 of them and believe they had something to do with right and left bank too rich. The code hasn't come back yet.

i did look at the live data - 55 psi fuel pressure, coolant temp was 192*, long and short term fuel trims were no higher than 3%, but closer to 0 most of the time while i was idling in the driveway.

When looking at those numbers, what condition should i be in? Should this be while driving? While idling? An average after a couple of days? Thanks!

adam

PS I did have a very similar problem about 2 years ago, which replacing the MAF sensor fixed. So I suppose it could be another one of those, but thought I'd get more than 2 years out of it.

PPS i also plan to replace my hoses and thermostat, coolant tank cap, etc since i noticed some swelling there. Not sure if its relevant or not, but its a journey....

 

Adam, there are quite a few youtube videos explaining fuel trims that could probably get you your answers faster than can be explained in writing. Here's a quick read:

https://www.autoserviceprofessional....for-you?Page=1

3 pages

 

Excellent resource, thank Sean!!

 

So looks like P2097 and P2099 - Post catalyst fuel system too rich (banks 1 and 2) and P0172 and P1075 - system too rich (banks 1 and 2).

I think it unlikely that multiple O2 sensors and/or catalysts have failed.

I had recently taken 2 back-to-back trips up to NW Arkansas and back, so no telling what sort of fuel i picked up between here and there and back. At the start of the trouble it was mostly just the occasional hard start with fluctuating idle, followed by eventually stabilizing. Somewhat sluggish performance. I replaced the fuel filter, which appeared to be the original, and that mostly went away for the better part of a month.

After I noticed the collapsed upper hose, I did replace the coolant tank cap with a new identical replacement, and this is when the light came on. I went ahead and put the old one back for now, but the light stayed on. Probably coincidence.

As mentioned above, fuel pressure seems steady at 55psi and the coolant temp after a drive was about 192. Believe the thermostat is supposed to be 190, so i have a replacement for that anyway along with the hoses.

thinking to start with the air filter and MAF as being in common with both banks, and checking for leaks as i go.

 

I would be inclined to start with P1074 and P1075. I'd look for restricted air intake (check air cleaner), leaking injectors and fuel in the oil, then move to the MAF sensor tests. P1074 and P1075 will likely lead to P2097 and P2099 tripping.

 

Your thermostat starts to open at 190 and is fully open @ 203. If it's not fully opening, your right to change it out.

 

Yeah that was my thought too, will update when I get some time to look at it... hopefully this weekend, because next week I have to go to Chicago for work. Appreciate the discussion!

 

P0128 code on scanner. What can I expect?

 

Since you replaced the MAF sensor two years ago, what you could do is to simply spray the sensor element with some MAF sensor cleaner as the element may only be contaminated. Actually, the best way to check the MAF sensor is to hook up an oscilloscope to that sensor as it will typically output square waves. As the engine revs up, the frequency of those square waves will increase proportionally.

 

I see where you have a fairly new battery according to your past posts but you might want to check the voltage early in the morning and see what your charge is. I did not find the actual information regarding your battery (what brand and the exact date it was replaced, etc.)

Also have you done the "check and clean negative ground posts?" The occasional hard start always catches my attention when looking at issues.

 

Very clear explanation here:

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...pencer-clayton