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Removing the intake manifold, makes for easy access.
Valley hose as well as the eight gaskets, if you take this route.
this is to reach the map sensor. But the valve cover gasket should not need intake manifold removed, right?
Also, after removing the manifold; do i have to replace any gaskets? Finally, my car is NA; does it also have the valley hose? If so; what is the part #. I want to replace while i am there.
MAP sensor is at the rear of the motor.
Might be possible to remove, & replace it by sense of touch.
By someone other than me, just not enough room for my hands in there.
I was chasing a vacuum leak when mine was removed.
Those eight pesky gaskets inside the intake manifold, needed to be replaced.
The other two intake manifold gaskets should be replaced
The valley hose was right there, so just replaced it.
Everything else was left alone, & reassembled
Wingrider (you ride a motorcycle Goldwing?), your car is naturally aspirated, right?
BTW, my check engine is gone once I replaced the MAF and cleaned the throttle body; so I am thinking about returning the MAP sensor and not replacing it. It looks difficult.
Yes, & yes.
Removal of the intake manifold, is really not that hard.
Take your time, look at the pictures, & read the instructions.
Believe i have read, the MAP sensors seldom go bad.
Recently I’ve had a very rough idle, vibrations and the (misfire type pew…. Three seconds… pew pew!) at first noticed that my fuel pressure trended a bit higher than normal around 405-420 KPA. I did replace with an aftermarket part and it stayed around 370-385ish range which I believe is normal? Until recently it rose back up again and got a P0183 code as well - swapped it with an OEM Ford one I got from the junkyard code went away. I also now have these codes as of yesterday:P0108 Manifold absolute pressure sensor high input”
P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
Along with Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 7 Misfire.
Coils and Plugs are new and I’ve tinkered with them so much I really don’t think this issue is being caused by them, while I wish it was at this point haha would be a relief!
Now, I do have a Denso MAF Sensor I got from the junkyard as well, but opted to clean all sensors this morning, as well as the throttle body and intake before trying to swap that one on there, for some reason I find it weird that the MAF and MAP sensor would go bad at the same time, thinking it may be more likely that there is an underlying cause affecting both of them? Or one affecting the other… not sure.
I unfortunately don’t have a MAP sensor on hand but can definitely order or grab a few locally, but just trying to figure out what steps I should take in trying to solve this
Recently I’ve had a very rough idle, vibrations and the (misfire type pew…. Three seconds… pew pew!) at first noticed that my fuel pressure trended a bit higher than normal around 405-420 KPA. I did replace with an aftermarket part and it stayed around 370-385ish range which I believe is normal? Until recently it rose back up again and got a P0183 code as well - swapped it with an OEM Ford one I got from the junkyard code went away. I also now have these codes as of yesterday:P0108 Manifold absolute pressure sensor high input”
P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
Along with Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 7 Misfire.
Coils and Plugs are new and I’ve tinkered with them so much I really don’t think this issue is being caused by them, while I wish it was at this point haha would be a relief!
Now, I do have a Denso MAF Sensor I got from the junkyard as well, but opted to clean all sensors this morning, as well as the throttle body and intake before trying to swap that one on there, for some reason I find it weird that the MAF and MAP sensor would go bad at the same time, thinking it may be more likely that there is an underlying cause affecting both of them? Or one affecting the other… not sure.
I unfortunately don’t have a MAP sensor on hand but can definitely order or grab a few locally, but just trying to figure out what steps I should take in trying to solve this
MAP Sensor 43 KPA at Idle, Park MAP Sensor 29 KPA at 2200-2300 RPM
MAP values, first picture at idle in park
second picture at 2200-2300 RPM
Ah yes, sorry I didn’t realize the picture cut out had to SS from a video, it’s showing 0% for both banks. It is straight piped and has no cats I wonder if this may have an effect on some or more readings as well?
No cats? You should have codes! That or you have considerably more to tell.
Which OBD monitors are not set? ...
Oh yeah there’s been so many 😅 I’ve had a ton come then go that occurred from what seemed to be electrical issues at one point, adjusted and cleaned grounds, got new battery and replaced a corroded battery bolt, also other codes present from having no cats I believe (P1647) always pops up whether running good or not, would have to take a look at where that sensor would be (assuming it may not be there as previous owners had O2S possibly removed and in the glove department) so I’ve been basically trying to work around it being straight piped and not messing with that too much unless needed… for now at least, just been a lot of other work needing to be done only got the car for 2000$ originally, surprisingly running and with some plus sides like fresh paint, interior good condition
I’ll take a closer look at it tomorrow for sure and get back with better details as I’m not sure about the OBD monitors and also what all is removed that would normally be there, should I also drive the car a good bit tmrw and see what else pops up? It drives fine past the 2200 RPM range just stumbles a lot in idle and hard acceleration in low RPMS
Thanks for the responses! I know this is probably a more rare case given the different variables involved haha 🐆 ironic a cat with no cats but still plenty horses for me hope nobody hates me in here 😆
Seems to be ruined from an OBD perspective. You may struggle to get useful info or know what to do.
These cars are designed to meet the laws, i.e. with O2 sensors, cats, etc.
Yes sir I understand. Thankfully I am in Florida (no testing). I’ve got a pretty good list of things replaced engine wise and will try to narrow it down and hope for more meaningful codes to solve the puzzle, I did have this issue go away for roughly 5 months before reappearing ;(
I did notice and for a while now, what I believe to be the throttle body motor sensor wiring looks like it’s been tampered with by PO and doesn’t look like it has the best connection - seems melted or bonded all together. It’s gotten worse looking as time has gone by but haven’t had any codes for that and didn’t wanna mess with it… (TPS all looks fine) need to find a replacement and the connector to properly fix it it seems for the other. been trying to find a compatible one from the junkyard since the later same 4.2 engines have a slightly different set up on the TB, needs to be an 04-05 I’m assuming.
I will post up more pictures to show you around some more, also to see if I’m missing anything that doesn’t look right in comparison. Thank you for the response 🙏
Earlier today I got to checking out things on the Jag, there was a hissing noise reminiscent of an air leak coming from around the FPR area (just replaced this recently)
Upon looking closer I noticed that the yellow plastic piece that connects the FPR connector tube and the vacuum line to back of TB was cracking down the middle. Definitely not air tight there, broke completely after a slight pull on it to look closer.
i noticed as I discovered this and before fitting a spare used one in good condition, my fuel pressure was around 440 KPA and after putting the good one on, dropped back to 370-385 KPA range and the idle improved a good deal but not quite perfect yet.
I will also attach some pictures of the TB sensor I intend to sort out soon.
07-02-2022, 10:58 AM
