Another Front End Rattle Thread
#1
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My front has been rattling like crazy when I go over even the slightly imperfections in the road for a long time now, with the occasional Air Suspension Fault coming up. I finally got fed up with it and had my mechanic check it out. He diagnosed and replaced the lower control arm bushes. When I picked up the car, it drove beautifully! Except there was still the tiniest bit of rattling over really bad bumps, only noticeable if you're really looking out for it. Anyway, I took the car back to the mechanic for a different reason but told them about the tiny rattle still hanging around. They could hear the rattle on the test drive (which means I'm not crazy), but could not find the reason for it. Supposedly everything in the suspension in tip-top. They said the only thing it could possibly be is the actual air shock itself. Reading up on the forums here, I see a lot of evidence to support that theory. Well, this morning on the way to work, I notice the rattling is back, almost as bad as it was before, but not quite as harsh. Does this sound like an air shock issue?
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#8
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Update: Last week, I replaced both front shocks with remanufactured Arnotts. While I was in there, I noticed that the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were completely destroyed on both sides of the car. Since there was nothing I could do about it at the time, I put the new shocks in and ignored the ball joint issue for the moment. All the rattles went away and the car drives wonderfully again. I no longer feel as though I am tipping over on corners and bumps and dips in the road are negotiated well. Steering is also more responsive.
HOWEVER, after a week (just like last time after replacing lower control arm bushings), the rattling has returned. But this time it sounds more like a muffled knocking instead of the car-shuttering earthquake rattle it was before. And it only manifests itself when there's either a giant hole or bump, or at slower surface street speeds. At highway speeds, there is no noise or ride harshness (and believe me, the highways here in LA are just as bad as the surface streets). So far I have not noticed any degradation of ride quality, just the reappearance of the noise. If it stays like this, I could probably live with it, but if it gets too loud or if the ride quality is affected again, I will go nuts.
My question is: could the knocking noise be coming from those bad ball joints in the upper control arms? The noise is definitely coming from both sides, and as you may recall, both the left and right ball joint boots were wrecked. I'm going to try removing the old boots, cleaning up all the grease, oil and dirt, and replacing them with fresh new boots from a supplier I found in the UK. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try replacing the entire arm, but I figure I'll try the easiest and cheapest fix first.
HOWEVER, after a week (just like last time after replacing lower control arm bushings), the rattling has returned. But this time it sounds more like a muffled knocking instead of the car-shuttering earthquake rattle it was before. And it only manifests itself when there's either a giant hole or bump, or at slower surface street speeds. At highway speeds, there is no noise or ride harshness (and believe me, the highways here in LA are just as bad as the surface streets). So far I have not noticed any degradation of ride quality, just the reappearance of the noise. If it stays like this, I could probably live with it, but if it gets too loud or if the ride quality is affected again, I will go nuts.
My question is: could the knocking noise be coming from those bad ball joints in the upper control arms? The noise is definitely coming from both sides, and as you may recall, both the left and right ball joint boots were wrecked. I'm going to try removing the old boots, cleaning up all the grease, oil and dirt, and replacing them with fresh new boots from a supplier I found in the UK. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try replacing the entire arm, but I figure I'll try the easiest and cheapest fix first.
#9
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I'm having a similar issue but it seems to be coming from the rear of the transmission during moderate acceleration. So I had a four wheel alignment and had all four wheels balanced but that did not help. So far I've had the following checked to no avail:
-rear differential fluid
-u joints
-all suspension fittings
-driveshaft
-transmission and engine mounts
Please keep us up to date on this!
-rear differential fluid
-u joints
-all suspension fittings
-driveshaft
-transmission and engine mounts
Please keep us up to date on this!
Last edited by XJL; 07-30-2014 at 01:24 PM.
#10
#11
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UPDATE: I sourced some rubber boots online to replace the ripped up ones in the upper ball joints. First, I removed the remnants of the old boot, cleaned out the joint with WD40 until there was no more old grease left, slathered on a thick coating of new grease, and then fit the new rubber over it. After I reconnected the wheel knuckle to the upper arm, I used zip ties to tighten the top and bottom seals of the boot. I then noticed that my driver side tie rod end had a ruptured boot as well, so I replaced that, and bolted everything back together. HOWEVER, when I was tightening the sway bar links, the ball joint bolt holding it to the sway bar sheared in half ![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
So the Jag is out of commission until my new sway bar links arrive. That was going to be my next plan of attack in case the clunking returned, so I guess I'll be killing two birds with one stone. I don't know how well the repaired ball joint boots will hold up, but I figured it was worth a shot. Worst case is I'll have to replace the entire arm.
Tonight I'll be tackling the air compressor rebuild using Bagpipingandy's kit.
![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
So the Jag is out of commission until my new sway bar links arrive. That was going to be my next plan of attack in case the clunking returned, so I guess I'll be killing two birds with one stone. I don't know how well the repaired ball joint boots will hold up, but I figured it was worth a shot. Worst case is I'll have to replace the entire arm.
Tonight I'll be tackling the air compressor rebuild using Bagpipingandy's kit.
#12
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UPDATE: I repaired the compressor using Bagpipingandy's kit...and the ASF message continues to rear its ugly head. I would be able to live with it if the ride didn't become so harsh whenever the message appears. I don't know what my next step should be. There doesn't seem to be any difference in height at all. I'm stumped. I've decided that if I continue to have cold weather problems like last year, I'm going to go with the coilover conversion and be done with it.
I replaced both sway bar end links. Unfortunately, the damned knocking noises are still there. I'm thinking my next move will be to replace the entire upper control arms.
Any tips, thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated. I'm quite discouraged at the moment.
I replaced both sway bar end links. Unfortunately, the damned knocking noises are still there. I'm thinking my next move will be to replace the entire upper control arms.
Any tips, thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated. I'm quite discouraged at the moment.
#14
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#16
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I don't want to send you off in the wrong direction but this might help.
People on here have had problems with noise from the ARB (sway bar)
bushes and I have an idea that if you disconnect the ends of the ARB and
drive around like that (for a short while) you may notice an improvement in the noise if
that is the source.
I know that the fitting holding the ARB is not easy to get to in order to check
for tightness.
Search this forum for details on noise emanating from the ARB.
Remember this is from someone who has never replaced a bush or had a rattle
in 6 years of ownership! (touch wood).
People on here have had problems with noise from the ARB (sway bar)
bushes and I have an idea that if you disconnect the ends of the ARB and
drive around like that (for a short while) you may notice an improvement in the noise if
that is the source.
I know that the fitting holding the ARB is not easy to get to in order to check
for tightness.
Search this forum for details on noise emanating from the ARB.
Remember this is from someone who has never replaced a bush or had a rattle
in 6 years of ownership! (touch wood).
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XJ8JR (08-11-2014)
#17
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I actually do recall reading that, however I'm reluctant to drive like that for any amount of time because the streets in my neighborhood are always extremely busy with crazy drivers and pesky pedestrians, so I'm afraid that if I have to suddenly avoid something, my steering capabilities might let me down and I'll have to worry about something much larger than a knocking suspension.
#18
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After re-reading your quote, I must admit that I only let it sit for 2 minutes. Perhaps I should try 5?
#19
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Well, I tried waiting 5 minutes, and still the damn ASF message comes on after 10 minutes of driving. Every single time now, like clockwork. I should've left the compressor alone and not attempted the piston rebuild. The ride quality is rock hard now, feels like my girlfriend's Infiniti G37S. But there still isn't any difference in height. And I haven't heard the compressor come on at all since I did the repair. After reconnecting the battery and starting the car on Saturday after the rebuild, the compressor came on and quickly refilled the front shocks, but nothing since then. I'm stumped. Someone must have a solution.
#20
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Actually this is strange. If the air suspension looses pressure the car gets softer and rolls more. I got both front shocks replaced today and the car feels a lot tighter now.
To test if it's not the CATS acting up you could remove both electrical connectors from the front shocks. This forces the dampers to stiff. You could compare if that is what you get when the ASF appears.
Of course something could have gone wrong when rebuilding the compressor but you can always try to fix it again. First check if it runs at all. Try listening a few mornings after you start the car if it starts and stops with the vent valve letting air out. Listen at the front left wheel for it.
Guus
To test if it's not the CATS acting up you could remove both electrical connectors from the front shocks. This forces the dampers to stiff. You could compare if that is what you get when the ASF appears.
Of course something could have gone wrong when rebuilding the compressor but you can always try to fix it again. First check if it runs at all. Try listening a few mornings after you start the car if it starts and stops with the vent valve letting air out. Listen at the front left wheel for it.
Guus