From the owners manual:

This feature will allow the front occupants to turn on the rear speakers if the rear occupants have turned them off using the rear multimedia system.

The front user can turn the rear speakers on by pressing the rear speakers on button. If the button is disabled, then the rear speakers are already on.

 

that makes sense, u102768, as my rears are working. so now i have to figure why i hear NO discernible sub volume increase or decrease when i fiddle with the sub volume. DSP is on for all areas (front, middle, rear). i'm assuming the subs are in the panell right in the middle of the rear parcel shelf. i'll check. BTW, is there a seprate fuse that feeds the alpine amp? or is it all on one circuit with the rest of the nav/stereo? TIA, wm

 

You might not notice much of a difference but the sub impact is intentionally reduced when you have the DSP on for all areas, for 'rear passenger comfort'.

If you switch DSP to driver or front it should, in theory, boost the base.

I find that there isn't a huge amount of base when listening to FM radio unless I turn the volume up above 15 but CD's sound great.

 

If you do a search on Kicker subs from 12/09 you will all find a quick write up with pictures on installing the subs and an external amp. The biggest difference I found was removing the trunk liner to allow any sub in a free air design to move properly. The liner doesn't allow subs to hit the lows. I ended up cutting a hole in the liner around the subs and it helped a little.

 

I think this is accurate for all systems in all cars, I've noticed this difference in my Mustang when I turn it from "Driver" to "ALL SEATS".

 

thanks u102768 & greenhrnet....tried it and with sub volume turned up all way, can definitely tell difference in bass response. then i turned it back to "all" on the DSP, and bass went into background and wasn't discrenible at all. soooo, if i want to have bass on a good CD track, i just place DSP on front only.

drew, cutting the trunk liner isn't something i would feel comfortable doing, unless it would make a significant difference, and then i would have to find some sort of molding or trim to make it look OEM...maybe with a mesh screen? did you do it with the stock subs or aftermarket subs?

 

Glad you noticed and it made a difference. That Liner thing you mentioned, I can't comment about, cause I have no idea what that talk is about, maybe my X-Type did not have that, but I agree with you on what you are saying about not doing something cause it does not feel comfortable.

 

In no way shape or form would I cut or modify anything. The goal is to have it as stock as possible but with subtle upgrades ... Just my honest opinion ....

 

I installed Kicker 6.5 subs in the stock location and hid the amp where the DVD player should be. I don't like systems that stick out. My car looks completely stock. I didn't cut into the trunk liner until I installed the new subs an amp, so i don't know if it would help the stock system. The only way you can see the hole is to climb inside the trunk. I thought a long time before I started the project. I too prefer a stock look.

 

How does it sound?? Did you snap any pics? I know it's not an easy pic to take, but if you did, show us.

 

Do a search for kicker subs on 12/09 The lower tones are better, but doesn't shake your teeth.

 

Not needed, I just wanted to see your setup. I used the kicker 6.5 in my stock Sub setup, and added an additional Sub in the Trunk also. Just wanted to see yours.

 

Hello again, mates:

My 2001 XJ8/VP has just one sub-woof enclosure on the package shelf in the rear of the car. The system is an Alpine Premium and the speaker has two (2) sets of terminals, I assume, for left and right. Anyone have similar set-up and where can I go to order a replacement. My meter tells me that both sets of cables are carrying 2.4-5 OHMs. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks

mkicenski
'01 XJ8 Vanden Plas sedan

 

It sounds like a Dual Voice coil setup, are both sides hooked up? If it's a DVC then all you need to replace it with is a DVC speaker.

 

You can probably find the DVC sub woofer you are looking for:
Parts Express

 

Greetings all. I require a little assistance also as I'm not a car stereo/Jaguar specialist. Some months ago, I purchased a Bazooka Tube and I just got some time on my hands for weekends so I decided to put it in. It's now mounted, the ground is connected, the 12v connection to the battery is made and the harness is on. I've tapped the wires from the existing subs in the shelf and have unsoldered the leads on them. I have one delimna now and I'm not clear on it.

I need to identify an additional 12 Lead where either the radio draws it's power or an aux 12 source in the fusebox that comes on with the ignition key is turned. Can someone direct me on how I might accomplish this? I have the electrical schematics for the vehicle thanks to Jason Aka PHD12volt, but I'm clueless still of where this connection will need to go.

What would help me most is a picture of the fuse box and where I can connect the remote on wire to either the Radio On, or the 12v Aux connector inside the fuse box.

 

Helps to know what model you are talking about.

 

Not to worry, I've worked it out. Fuse 27 in Box B in the Passenger Cabin, beneath the glove Box embedded in the wall is for the Radio. I simply snaked a wire from there beneath the interior of the car to the rear, into the trunk to supply the voltage for Sub On and Off via the Ignition Key being in the proper position.

If you were unaware, my car is a 2005 Platinum STR and the sub woofer I was referencing is a bazooka BT250D 250 Watts of power.

 

Had me worried there for a minute, since I just bought a pair of Kicker CVT65's, 4Ω units.

Jason, in your post on the other site, you measured 2.5Ω on the stock subs...this didn't seem "right" so I had a look around and found this;

To measure the true impedance of a speaker or cabinet requires a rather complex procedure involving signal generators, power amplifiers and high frequency AC voltmeters. However, with raw speakers and many cabinets, the ohmmeter function of a digital multimeter can help you identify what the impedance of the speaker should be. Generally, the reading given by an ohmmeter will be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the impedance of the speaker. So, a 4 ohm speaker will typically measure about 2.5 - 3 ohms, and an 8 ohm speaker will typically read about 5-6 ohms, while a 16 ohm speaker will measure around 12 ohms.

From this site Speaker Impedance Explained - Ohms