well guys after a test with silicon around the leaking sensor base the shock did hold more air but did not quite solve the problem
so i removed the silicon and replaced it with epoxy and gained more air pressure then i put silicone around electrical connection on top of the shock and wala
we now have repaired the shock and ride height has been restored
knock on wood
i thought i would just pass this information along the shocks can be repaired

 

How did you deal with disabling the electronics to remove fault messages after the conversion? I've heard differing opinions on whether this is really possible to do. Strutmasters says there's a message that comes on every time you start up that can be removed by pressing the reset button. Arnott claims you can disable completely but only provides instructions if you buy their product.


How did you handle it, and what are the results? Thanks -

 

I just installed the Arnott kit today. I intend to post a write-up of the job soon. With the Arnott kit, you simply unplug all 4 connectors in the computer that's mounted behind the rear passenger seat. I only went for about a 10-mile drive, (terrible roads & snow here) but I had NO suspension errors at all.

FYI while I'm thinking of it, you will need a Torx 60 socket to remove the large bolts on the bottoms of the front shocks (thanks to one of the other forum members for mentioning that. I HATE having to stop in the middle of a job to go get parts or tools.) Let me tell you: those bolts were a bear; I broke 2 3/8" ratchets and a socket reducer on it. I finally got it out with the help of a friend and a propane torch. I thought for certain I was going to break the bolt. I think they actually had red Loctite on them.

The other kinda special tool you'll need is an Allen wrench (or socket) to help remove the top nuts from the top part of the front suspension ( sorry I don't know what it's called). Once the large nut, 18 mm I think, breaks loose, the bolt simply spins in place as it's not a standard head bolt. The bottom of that bolt has the Allen head on it.

Make sure you also hit every bolt & nut with PB Blaster or similar before attempting to remove them.

Props to the member who only took three hours to do it. I worked slowly and by myself, but it took me about eight hours. The rears were pretty easy. The fronts were much tougher. Have somebody help you place the new ones in - it takes a lot of strength & jockeying around to get the new units up into the bolt holes.

 

that sounds like it; from sexybeast's post on installing an s type suspension:

"i had to unplug the suspension computer behind the back seat and then clear the codes with a hard reset but touching the negative battery cable to the positive post."

 

So once the conversion is completed, you just leave the connectors dangling?

If the rear computer just deals with the suspension and is no longer used, can the whole unit not just be removed and discarded to complete the install process?

Is there anything that can be done with all the cabling that is left behind too?

What exactly does the hard reset above actually reset?

 

I recall from one of the videos (maybe the full arnott one?) that they say "remove all plugs to computer and tie off" or something. Basically just zip tie them together and tuck them way.

I've been curious as to how much weight you could remove; between the computers, air pump and all the lines, it could be fairly significant. (in my younger years I would have gotten excited about such a project...but then you get a family )

 

yes you must disconect the electronics behind the seat -if you don;t you'll get suspension fault lights-----i just tye wraped all the air and electrical connectors -on shocks/pump/ and tank

 

I ordered the Arnott kit (C 2290) today. Hope to have it here and installed by end of next week. Need to end this 'ride to low' nightmare to end!

 

This coil spring conversion seems to become very popular in the US, due to the awful winter you have nowadays.
In Europe, it seems that most X350 owners live with the air ride and do not encounter similar problems.
One issue however has been mentioned that is the suspension leveling for HID which is mandatory to pass the MOT.
How do you deal with it in the US?

 

Most of us over here don't have such draconian checks
They will have safety checks in some states/cities; just like some have emissions checking in some states/cities...but the majority do not. (no national system).

I also don't think even the DOT (dept of transportation) has ever all that hot on making sure that your headlights were level automatically- I recall the first bmw's and such coming over with self leveling systems and it seemed very over the top.

 

My Cat has been hibernating in the garage for the past 2 weeks.
I left her outside this past Wednesday night and the front end was bottomed out by morning (13 F). Pulled it in the garage, warmed her a little and the front end went back-up. I sprayed "Leak detector" on the air-line/brass-fitting and found a leak. I had to replace a torn O-ring in the brass fitting on the left shock. I know it is not the compressor since it was rebuilt this past November. Will take her out for a trot when the freezing rain stops and the roads are safe.

 

That's a great question. After my conversion last week, I realize that my headlights need to be raised up some. The owners manual says "no adjustment is necessary due to the electronic leveling suspension."

A quick call to Arnott had then scratching their heads but they asked me to try plugging the computers back in briefly to allow headlight adjustment, then unplugging them again. I hope to try that this weekend.

 

OK guys, I just had the Arnott coil spring conversion done today at my local Jag dealer. My wife picked up the car as I had to work late.
My question, though, is does the car seem to sit "lower" after the conversion. The hood is nice and high but it seems the back "looks" maybe an inch lower than it used to be. Could this be or am I just imaging things?

 

That's the same observation I made when I was done with the conversion. So I was surprised that the headlights were a little lower on the road because it seemed the front end was higher than the back end. I'm waiting to see if over time both strut heights will level out with each other as they wear. Funny thing was, I had all four corners up on jack stands to do the work. I let the back end down first, and it seemed way up until I let the front end down too. I'll also manually adjust the headlight height as has been described previously.

 

I installed the rear first and when lowered it was much higher than usual. It looked like a lift kit installed. However, after finishing the front and lowering the car it leveled out nicely. My front seems spot on and the rear maybe slightly higher. I wish I would have measured clearances before starting as my air system was functioning before this install. The main thing is the stance is so close to original it's fine, the ride is good, and these will not leave you stranded as the air system can.

 

Just an update on my Arnott coil spring conversion. The car has now leveled out and appears to be pretty even in the front and back. The ride is very good and I really don't even notice a difference from air-suspension. And here is the best part....the car sat outside at the airport for 3 days in 12 degree F temperature and did NOT drop at all and become a "low-rider"

What a relief knowing that I can now count on this car in extremely cold weather!

 

Would love to retrofit CATS in my s type 1999 v8, if anyone has all the parts I'd happily buy them off them.

 

You registered to post off-topic in a 7-year-old thread?!?!?

Seriously?