Auxiliary Coolant Pump Re-brush
#22
I do not recall seeing a posting on removal of the Aux. Coolant pump, but basically it is mounted about halfway down on the edge of the radiator on the passenger side. You will need to drain the coolant, and remove the expansion reservoir to be able to get to it. The radiator drain plug is on the driver's side, and you will need to get the car up on ramps and remove the plastic cover first. Removing the Aux. coolant Pump itself should be straightforward, given that it is in a cramped spot - in & out hose connections, an electrical connector and a couple of screws are all that secure it.
#24
Here's a Russian top-secret technology
Fix the brushes, so they are not able to move out. Pour some water (or even a saliva ) on a brushes and put a whole brush holder assembly in a fridge. Frozen water will fix brushes in a place, so it's pretty easy to assemble a pump.
Fix the brushes, so they are not able to move out. Pour some water (or even a saliva ) on a brushes and put a whole brush holder assembly in a fridge. Frozen water will fix brushes in a place, so it's pretty easy to assemble a pump.
Reminds me of the fellow who said the US spent hundreds of thousands of dollars to develop a pen that would work in space, but do you know what the Russians did? They used a pencil.
#25
Just finished reading page #1 and after reading the #20 post, remember someone once wrote to do just that. In the post it mentioned to buy a very long Phillips screw driver from Harbor Freight, so you could reach the four screws from the top.
The screw driver still hangs in my shop, but I haven't tried it yet. Will before this next winter sets in.
Cheers
The screw driver still hangs in my shop, but I haven't tried it yet. Will before this next winter sets in.
Cheers
#26
How to hold the brushes.
So I just did this on my heater pump on y 2004 XJR and it took a lot of thinking. But I came up with an easy way to do the brushes. First off most all the brushes have the copper wire out the back of the brush. I tried to do it this way but the spring clip would bind the brush and not stay center soooooooooo Just cut the copper wire off the back but save it. I found the brushes at the local hardware store that were 1/4" by 1/4" by 3/4" . I used a fine file and just layed it on my vice and just pushed the carbon on the file until I got the width and height to fit with no slop and glided in the brush housing. Take your time!!! Make it fit with no slop!!! If you look at the original, the copper wire came out the top and the back has a v notch for the spring to ride in so it stays center. I just used a utility blade and dragged the point across the back until I had a depth like the factory. Then I put the brush in the holder and let the spring rest on the side of the brush. I took a small number bit/ pin pit and drilled a hole through the brush about 1/8" from the end. Then I fed the copper wire through the brush and put some solder on the bottom of the wire. I pulled it tight against the brush and then took side cutters and cut off the excess. It is now wide enough that it wont pull through the hole because the solder is tapered on the end So now you need to make sure that when you put the armature into the end, the bushing and the spring do not stick out and touch the outer housing or it will short the motor out!!!!! Just make sure you have a little clearance. now with 2 number/pin bits, drill a hole above each brush. Theres actually 2 recesses that show where the brushes are on the side of the motor where you plug the power in. I used two and just pulled the brushes out just enough to clear the amature and drilled the hole just to go through the plastic and hit the carbon maybe 1/32 of an inch. I left the bit in and the brush is now 1/16" away from the armature. I did the other brush the same way. I indexed the outer metal housing and installed both ends and removed the two pin bits. Before bending the taps to lock everything I used two alligator clips and touched the car battery. Success. Now bend the tabs and install the pump. The two small holes that the drill bits made can be filled with a dab of RTV. These bits are very small and I doubt water would ever enter as the holes are under the pump and in a recessed square.
Last edited by Sixt8bird; 12-22-2017 at 01:40 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Dan R (12-22-2017)
#27
Do the springs push the brush against the center? They only seem to push against the side of the brush holder.
So I just did this on my heater pump on y 2004 XJR and it took a lot of thinking. But I came up with an easy way to do the brushes. First off most all the brushes have the copper wire out the back of the brush. I tried to do it this way but the spring clip would bind the brush and not stay center soooooooooo Just cut the copper wire off the back but save it. I found the brushes at the local hardware store that were 1/4" by 1/4" by 3/4" . I used a fine file and just layed it on my vice and just pushed the carbon on the file until I got the width and height to fit with no slop and glided in the brush housing. Take your time!!! Make it fit with no slop!!! If you look at the original, the copper wire came out the top and the back has a v notch for the spring to ride in so it stays center. I just used a utility blade and dragged the point across the back until I had a depth like the factory. Then I put the brush in the holder and let the spring rest on the side of the brush. I took a small number bit/ pin pit and drilled a hole through the brush about 1/8" from the end. Then I fed the copper wire through the brush and put some solder on the bottom of the wire. I pulled it tight against the brush and then took side cutters and cut off the excess. It is now wide enough that it wont pull through the hole because the solder is tapered on the end So now you need to make sure that when you put the armature into the end, the bushing and the spring do not stick out and touch the outer housing or it will short the motor out!!!!! Just make sure you have a little clearance. now with 2 number/pin bits, drill a hole above each brush. Theres actually 2 recesses that show where the brushes are on the side of the motor where you plug the power in. I used two and just pulled the brushes out just enough to clear the amature and drilled the hole just to go through the plastic and hit the carbon maybe 1/32 of an inch. I left the bit in and the brush is now 1/16" away from the armature. I did the other brush the same way. I indexed the outer metal housing and installed both ends and removed the two pin bits. Before bending the taps to lock everything I used two alligator clips and touched the car battery. Success. Now bend the tabs and install the pump. The two small holes that the drill bits made can be filled with a dab of RTV. These bits are very small and I doubt water would ever enter as the holes are under the pump and in a recessed square.
#28
No they push against the end. the picture above is where the brushes are pushed out just so the spring holds them stationary.
The nice thing when you relocate the wire to the top and through the brush is that it no longer can pass through the center and pop out of the brush holder when the spring is put in its correct position. The wire hits a cross bar and ends the brush travel. This is what in fact stops the motors from working when the brush wears.It gets to the end of travel and no longer makes contact.
The nice thing when you relocate the wire to the top and through the brush is that it no longer can pass through the center and pop out of the brush holder when the spring is put in its correct position. The wire hits a cross bar and ends the brush travel. This is what in fact stops the motors from working when the brush wears.It gets to the end of travel and no longer makes contact.
The following users liked this post:
Dan R (12-25-2017)
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