Axle seal ?
#1
#2
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The knuckle will need to come off, so it's not a bad time to check the brake pads and control arm bushings. If you remove the whole knuckle you don't have to separate the axle from the hub/knuckle. There are a bunch of threads on how to install a Quaife limited slip differential and those threads might be useful to you because the first step in removing the differential is to pull the axles. While the knuckle + axle is heavy and awkward to carry, I was able to remove it solo thorough the use of bungee cords to hold the knuckle when it was free of the control arms and tie rod.
The manual has instructions on removing the axles which can be helpful, but I will warn you that it details some things that I don't think really reflect how the factory installed the components. The manual for example says to use thread locker on the splines, but in my case (and other examples I've read on the net about) the splines were clearly greased at the factory and no thread locker was applied. Also, the manuals show using a special tool to pry the axles out, but all you need is a screwdriver or small pry bar. The manual recommends a new retaining clip for the axle upon replacement, these are a special order item at SNG Barrat but are available. I replaced mine but the new and old ones to my eyes were indistinguishable (though of course one can't really eyeball metal fatigue?). On the re-install, grease on the splines helps keep the retaining clip from interfering as you slide the axle back in. But again note the manual comments re: threadlocker from above.
One warning, if your car is from an area with harsh winters where salt is used, expect the old seals to put up a fight. I worked on a donor differential and removing the rusted seals -- with the differential out of the car -- took much effort.
The manual has instructions on removing the axles which can be helpful, but I will warn you that it details some things that I don't think really reflect how the factory installed the components. The manual for example says to use thread locker on the splines, but in my case (and other examples I've read on the net about) the splines were clearly greased at the factory and no thread locker was applied. Also, the manuals show using a special tool to pry the axles out, but all you need is a screwdriver or small pry bar. The manual recommends a new retaining clip for the axle upon replacement, these are a special order item at SNG Barrat but are available. I replaced mine but the new and old ones to my eyes were indistinguishable (though of course one can't really eyeball metal fatigue?). On the re-install, grease on the splines helps keep the retaining clip from interfering as you slide the axle back in. But again note the manual comments re: threadlocker from above.
One warning, if your car is from an area with harsh winters where salt is used, expect the old seals to put up a fight. I worked on a donor differential and removing the rusted seals -- with the differential out of the car -- took much effort.
#3
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I had this same problem with a leaking driver's side axle seal. I had a mechanic friend replace the seal which in short order began to leak again. We then put a speedi sleave on the axle hoping for a tighter fit. It was leak free for 6 months until Iowa cold weather hit and now it is leaking again. Am I dealing with more than a seal? Any thoughts to diff seal products added to the fluid?
#4
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Especially the diesel diffs are prone to destroy earlier.
While doing the oilchange have a good look at the filler cap screw . If there is a little sludge residue on it , totally normal ,then fill with the normal diff oil you should use.
If there is a big sludge with lots of metal debries do not put new synthetic oil in it it will leak earlier.
go ahead an look out for a breaker to find replacement
Carefull there is a different differentialon some of the younger x358 that is not compatible with the shaft going out to the wheels ( at the end of production)
While doing the oilchange have a good look at the filler cap screw . If there is a little sludge residue on it , totally normal ,then fill with the normal diff oil you should use.
If there is a big sludge with lots of metal debries do not put new synthetic oil in it it will leak earlier.
go ahead an look out for a breaker to find replacement
Carefull there is a different differentialon some of the younger x358 that is not compatible with the shaft going out to the wheels ( at the end of production)
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JensenHealey
XJ40 ( XJ81 )
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02-08-2020 01:00 PM
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