The way my unit is connected does not appear to drain the battery because the mirror shuts off when the car is off and there is no power to the backup lamp leads when the car is off. Not sure about the effects of connecting to the nav system as it is not part of how my system is running.

 

Hello MEC (sorry, but yes..it's me again)!

Just to double-check, I am chasing what appears to be a parasitic draw from somewhere; can you please confirm that power to the reverse lights is ignition switched? Simple logic tells me that it should be so, but I am unable to decipher this from the wiring diagrams?

 

With all doors, bonnet & boot locks levered to lock and my car 'asleep', I have a 17 millivolt drop across fuse F46 (R/H Rear Reverse & Fog Lights). Is this sufficient to cause my battery drain, please?
If so, is there something I can do to fix this or must I simply disconnect the relay for my reversing camera from this circuit?

 

The pins on my relay are different from those on MEC's diagram (please see below); could my parasitic draw be caused by my wrongly connecting my relay? (Please note, the camera works perfectly when I select reverse)

 

Hi Esray,

I drive the car at least once weekly and have had no issue. I also put the car on a trickle charger when I'm away for any extended period. You may want to touch base with the manufacturer to see if that small draw is normal.

How's it working otherwise?

 

Hello MEC, It is working perfectly! Like yours, my screen and camera are ignition switched.
That is why I just want to check that I have it connected correctly. I have made the connections based on the terminal numbers given in your diagram, not the 'geographic' location of those numbers on my relay (which differs from yours)? For example, my terminal has numbers 1, 4 & 2 in a row of three terminals at one end, 5 in the middle and 3 at the other end, whereas your three in a line terminals are numbered 1,4,& 5.
I am wondering if I need to swap two wires over to match the 'geometry' of yours ?
I hope you can make sense of what I am trying to say!

 

I'd recommend matching numbers, not pin location as some relays will differ. Regardless, glad it's working.

 

 

All good now?

BTW . Back in December you said you had "stupidly" wired the relay according to the diagram on the side, rather than the pin numbers. I hope you were teasing yourself, because "stupid" it was never.

Using a functional or schematic logic diagram is actually a professional electron pusher's preferred route.
It goes completely around any barriers of different maker, different packaging, termination numbering, type of terminal, or physical layout of terminations - straight to the core of how the relay will actually *operate*.

That's why the maker put the diagram there. When.. we are lucky enough to HAVE a considerate maker!
Otherwise.. we have to test it... or look-up a maker's SKU in a catalog that has the diagram. Many among us won't even buy an unmarked relay if we can avoid it. Maker's know that, so most of them are marked.

Yah done good!

 

Bill, Thank you for your kind words; thanks to MEC's persistence, my reversing camera works perfectly; however, I am still trying to find a solution to the 17 millivolt drop across its fuse?
Assuming I am reading this correctly (not a given!) the attached table equates this voltage drop to a 2 amp draw on my battery!

 

I saw that, but didn't pursue it, as I didn't - and do not - like the measurement method.

I expect a steady bare minimum, (watchdog logic keep-alive) PLUS periodic higher demand (polling for key commands and/or security motion detection system). Not a steady state, in other words, 'dynamic', rather..

If I was being paid to chase it? I'd put a calibrated current-shunt resistor in the circuit, then set my Rigol Digital 'scope or the Fluke Scopemeter to record derived CURRENT draw in strip-chart recorder or "roll" mode, over a many-hour period - perhaps even a full 24-hours to take onboard ambient temperature swing - given I've actually BEEN to Dubai ... more than once.

The Rigol can probably even do some form of energy summation - I haven't begun to explore all of its many and varied capabilities, but there is a 'puter, firmware, and lots of NVRAM and DRAM in the box with I/O to bigger 'puters, too.
Dead easy to capture a screen or several and post them to the 'net as graphic files, for example.

Lot of fun, a good 'scope can be. Even more so these digital/storage models.
They sort of let a human "see" otherwise invisible electricity.

'"Mentored'' by a genius or several as I was blessed, had my second 'scope by nine years of age, (Dumont and Eico).
I was so impressed at the mysteries they made clearly visible that I have never had fewer than two now 70 years later.
They didn't use to have multiple 'trace' capability at such affordable prices as they do now, y'see.

Annnd.. there is still going to be that 'keep alive' as an unavoidable minimum. I did say "solar panel charger"?

Dubai will have Rigols affordably. Cheaper than just one GOOD tire for the Jaguar, and will surely outlast a tire.

Bet Dubai has solar chargers for-dam' sure, too!

 

Dear Forum,
I want to thank all the members who have posted to help me.
Try this one on for size!
I must obviously have something wired incorrectly, because I just found out that my reversing camera AND my reversing lights work with fuse F46 (R/H Rear Reverse & Fog Lights) REMOVED!

 

Not to worry. Sorting it will keep you out of pubs and brothels.

Anywayyyyyy the REAL reason we keep coming back is 'coz "Radiance Red" is so dam' gorgeous!
If you didn't have that as avatar, you might have to reinvent electricity, alone, and in the dark.

(Metallic Mica Slate, here... but the 'stealth' factor works well.)

 

Ended up with a flat battery. Decided to disconnect the reversing camera relay for the time being. When I disconnected it, both reversing lights came on (ignition off, in Park); If I select reverse they brighten considerably? I had replaced both of the bulbs with LED's when I first started interferring with the reversing lights to fit the relay?
Only way I can get the lights off is to put the original reversing bulb back in the R/H side, then they work as they should, but in reverse gear the L/H light is nice and bright and the R/H light is very dim??
But at least my car starts!!

 

Must be frustrating, but hope you don't mind we at a distance have a chuckle over the rolling saga in it?

Haven't seen such a deal since the mid-1950's when a guy who thought he was a plumber connected Mum's new gas range to a water pipe. Praise heaven he had not yet plumbed the gas to the kitchen sink, given Mum was a Philip-Morris smoker!

Not to forget that LED's are what they say they are "Light Emitting DIODES". Meaning they are polarity sensitive. Take that into account as you go a-hunting for the remaining gremlins.

 

Ex-Matelot, so no problem whatsoever with anyone having a good old chuckle at my misfortune and ineptness; I am probably a better plumber than I am an Auto Electrician!
have two separate (I am assuming ignition-switched, although I have been unable to confirm this on the forum) constant 12 volt red wires going to the reverse bulb holder and also a white wire (that provides the ground); maybe I have tapped into the wrong 12 volt red?
Thanks for the reminder about polarity...MEC made the same comment to me earlier.
Persistency pays!

 

Incidentally, I still have the rather strange phenomena of a screen that does not work in the morning, but works perfectly in the afternoon? Perhps a plumber is best placed to explain this?

 

Yah.. 'Matelot' is understood... Navy & Merchant Navy Marine Engineers on one side of the family. Steam rail, then Sappers/Combat Engineers, the other --> Cable & Wireless pension, eventually.

HOPE to Hell yer a DAM' good plumber, given need of keeping the whole dam ocean on the correct side of the hull plating!



LED's (and transistors) can be put to good use tracing faults.

The +12V when active end of an incandescent lamp's filament for example, looks like a right decent path to GROUND for the more frugal Diode when that +12V is absented. Or NOT a path if/as/when the filament is burnt out.

Among the uses are circuits that trip an alarm when detecting an idle incandescent has burnt out - no longer provides that path. Reporting known burnout from last-go, even before it is being asked to light-up, this go is a feature, not a bug.

Jaguar used to tell me when a turn or marker lamp was out .... unitl I adapted non-OEM LEDS that didn't.. burn out..

Complex criiter a modern motorcar. Some of the X350's traffic is, of course, coded inter-computer chatter, not ignorant DC, and even the brute-simple ECATS shock absorbers are spoken to with 400 Hz data pulses, not raw ON/OFF Dee Cee.

(Some of) your challenge may be dealing with the side effects of sensor/alarm circuitry?

Primitive form of optical isolator might halp yah. Put all wiring back to as-issued. Sense reverse 'hands free' by aiming a photodiode at a backup light. Light comes on, so does the camera. No IN visible connection at all.

"Packaged" opto-isolators are handy, too. Crydom solid-state relays and clones depend on their inbuilt ones for agnostic and harmless control circuitry. I began engineering-in Crydoms instead of relays around 1972. No contacts to wear-out. Teeny tiny power needed to control.

 

EsRay, very ambitious changing out the lamps to LED PLUS installing the backup camera mirror.

I'd put the original lamps back for one reason, the Jags electrics are great, but not designed for LEDs in those sockets. You can try switching different brands in, but at the very least you will need in-line resistors and you should also change out the front.

Either way, I'd make sure the camera is completely working for a couple of weeks before attempting the LED changeout.

I did do the headlight upgrade, but did not touch running, parking, brake or turn signal lamps. That would be a bugger!

 

Uh. Noooo.. Any LED "packaged" for 'direct replacement' Automotive/Marine/RV use already has one or both of series-ing up the characteristic forward Voltage drop to live in the target environment and/or inbuilt current-limiting resistor(s). That's not "really" their marked 12V and 24V, BTW.

Same as incandescents aimed at the same market, they are meant to deal indefinitely with 14-15V ... ELSE twice that for trucks with 24 volt systems .. the normal regulated Alternator Voltage whilst running.

Actually it is the easier part. LED drop-ins for our chronic-nuisances, such as turn-signal repeaters and side marker lighting are sold in the usual channels, already in X350 mounts and compatible terminations.

Adapting the ones stocked as general-purpose replacements for those chronically going damaged on trucks and trailers ibto the existing Jaguar lense and housing was a money-saver, if a mite tedious.