Bleeding ABS systems
#1
Bleeding ABS systems
So, I'm working towards changing my brakes on my '04 XJ8. The pads (Akebono Euros) came in today. Next payday will be the purchase of R1 Concepts slotted rotors. I also plan to change out the brake fluid. I understand how to replace fluid and bleed the lines, but when I was reading about flushing the ABS reservoir, it mentioned that some cars require special tools, such as a device to cause the ABS to cycle, to pump dirty fluid out of its reservoir.
So, would I be better off just taking the whole kit up to a brake shop and letting them do it? I'm an average shade tree mechanic, but I don't want to get in over my head.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mitch
So, would I be better off just taking the whole kit up to a brake shop and letting them do it? I'm an average shade tree mechanic, but I don't want to get in over my head.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Mitch
#2
#3
I'm not an expert in brakes so take my words with a grain of salt.
From what I have read, bleading the ABS is indeed a tricky part. In the dealer diagnostic software there is a special procedure that will force the ABS pump to "flush" the fluid. It's not really a "tool" - more like a software that talks to the ABS computer module and makes it do the right thing.
The regular brake shop I used did not have any such equipment.
From what I have read, bleading the ABS is indeed a tricky part. In the dealer diagnostic software there is a special procedure that will force the ABS pump to "flush" the fluid. It's not really a "tool" - more like a software that talks to the ABS computer module and makes it do the right thing.
The regular brake shop I used did not have any such equipment.
Last edited by veffremov; 08-07-2009 at 04:26 PM.
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Mitch, even not swapping out the fluid from the ABS modules, by simply doing what most consider a standard fluid swap, you are going to get most of the fluid. So, the amount left in the ABS modules will be minimal. Absolute worst case, you swap out the fluid, drive the car for a day or two and then swap the fluid again. But, I think you are going to find that when you do the fluid the second time, the color difference is going to be very minimal.
As a side note, I find it easiest to use a piece of tygon clear tubing that fits on to the nipple on the caliper. Then I tape (using masking tape) the tube up to the body of the car above the wheel well. This allows me to do a brake job all by myself and I can see if any air is still trapped in the system as it will tend to rise to the top of the tubing.
As a side note, I find it easiest to use a piece of tygon clear tubing that fits on to the nipple on the caliper. Then I tape (using masking tape) the tube up to the body of the car above the wheel well. This allows me to do a brake job all by myself and I can see if any air is still trapped in the system as it will tend to rise to the top of the tubing.
#6
Mitch, even not swapping out the fluid from the ABS modules, by simply doing what most consider a standard fluid swap, you are going to get most of the fluid. So, the amount left in the ABS modules will be minimal. Absolute worst case, you swap out the fluid, drive the car for a day or two and then swap the fluid again. But, I think you are going to find that when you do the fluid the second time, the color difference is going to be very minimal.
As a side note, I find it easiest to use a piece of tygon clear tubing that fits on to the nipple on the caliper. Then I tape (using masking tape) the tube up to the body of the car above the wheel well. This allows me to do a brake job all by myself and I can see if any air is still trapped in the system as it will tend to rise to the top of the tubing.
As a side note, I find it easiest to use a piece of tygon clear tubing that fits on to the nipple on the caliper. Then I tape (using masking tape) the tube up to the body of the car above the wheel well. This allows me to do a brake job all by myself and I can see if any air is still trapped in the system as it will tend to rise to the top of the tubing.
Thermo,
Thank you for the information, and the pointer. I'll take that into consideration. I really don't want to go to the dealer ($120/hr labor) or to a brake shop. I'm capable of doing a "normal" brake change myself, but the ABS stuff was making me hesitate.
Mitch
#7
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#8
If it was at 40K, is that the interval? If so, that means it's coming up again (the car has 74K on it now).
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