Blower quit
#61
Thanks for the reply Don. I was actually referring to the cigarette lighter that's located just ahead of the transmission floor shifter. When the original blower module failed (again) last December, I borrowed my sister's small electric defroster which plugs into a cigarette lighter. When I plugged that unit into the cigarette lighter socket, there was no power. Apparently, the former owner had problems with it too as I found a blown 20A fuse in the trunk fuse box that was used in place of the recommended 15A fuse.
Well, after replacing the 20A fuse (I didn't have a 15A fuse lying around at the time), the small electric defroster worked fine for the first 12 minutes, and then the fuse blew again. I subsequently replaced that 20A fuse with a 15A fuse.
I don't have the wiring diagram before me, but I'm assuming that the 15A fuse only powers the cigarette lighter so I suspect that the cigarette lighter socket is likely shot.
Well, after replacing the 20A fuse (I didn't have a 15A fuse lying around at the time), the small electric defroster worked fine for the first 12 minutes, and then the fuse blew again. I subsequently replaced that 20A fuse with a 15A fuse.
I don't have the wiring diagram before me, but I'm assuming that the 15A fuse only powers the cigarette lighter so I suspect that the cigarette lighter socket is likely shot.
The problem are the positive contacts on the side of the socket. The negative contacts on the various plugs you can find are generaly on the bottom of the plugs and create a short when you insert or rotate the plugs.
So you only need to add electrique tape on the positive contact on the side of the sockect if you don't want to remove the socket. If you disassemble the socket you can replace the tape by Heat-shrinkable sheat.
#62
#63
Well, I took a fast look at the cigarette lighter in the front today, and also the two cigarette lighters in the back. While I was able to power my radar detector with all three lighter sockets, none of the cigarette lighters themselves would even get warm. In fact, one of those cigarette lighters in the back was replaced by me two years ago.
My guess was that the former owner of the 2005 Jaguar XJ8L was a smoker, and probably went through all three of the lighter sockets in the process. That probably explained why one of the rear cigarette lighters was missing when I acquired the car, and why the 15A fuse for the front cigarette lighter was replaced with a 20A.
As far as the front cigarette lighter socket is concerned, it's not shorted, but I think that it's more of a case of a poor connection (center electrode) which causes high current devices to blow the 15A fuse.
At the moment, I'm not sure that I even want to spend the time nor the expense to replace the front cigarette lighter socket, but this is where it stands.
My guess was that the former owner of the 2005 Jaguar XJ8L was a smoker, and probably went through all three of the lighter sockets in the process. That probably explained why one of the rear cigarette lighters was missing when I acquired the car, and why the 15A fuse for the front cigarette lighter was replaced with a 20A.
As far as the front cigarette lighter socket is concerned, it's not shorted, but I think that it's more of a case of a poor connection (center electrode) which causes high current devices to blow the 15A fuse.
At the moment, I'm not sure that I even want to spend the time nor the expense to replace the front cigarette lighter socket, but this is where it stands.
#64
More tricks to replace blower control module on XJ8 2006
A few tricks I learned in replacing the BCM module.
Get a low profile , ratching philips screw driver and it's easy to take the 2 screws out that hold the BCM to the top of the blower, without removing the blower.
IF the glove box hangs up on the drivers side, you can still access the BCM.
As said before, don't unplug anything with the glove box.
I had a 2nd Torx on the pass side, inside the glove box, only seen once the cig lighter 2 philips were removed and cig lighter dropped down.
Rock Auto has an Airtex/Wells replacement for $250 delivered in 2 days, , 3 year warranty, part 4P1805 (#JA1927):
See photos.
Thanks to all that did this before!
Get a low profile , ratching philips screw driver and it's easy to take the 2 screws out that hold the BCM to the top of the blower, without removing the blower.
IF the glove box hangs up on the drivers side, you can still access the BCM.
As said before, don't unplug anything with the glove box.
I had a 2nd Torx on the pass side, inside the glove box, only seen once the cig lighter 2 philips were removed and cig lighter dropped down.
Rock Auto has an Airtex/Wells replacement for $250 delivered in 2 days, , 3 year warranty, part 4P1805 (#JA1927):
- Ceramic coated steel printed circuit board design for durability and longevity
- Thermal fuse equipped
- Thicker trace widths than OE
- Mounting and connector identical to OE
See photos.
Thanks to all that did this before!
#65
After I ordered a used a complete Blower motor and motor resistor shipped for $95.00. I saw this on EBay. Its for Range Rover at $16.00 and appeared to be the same for the X350. It looks identical.
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
#66
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
Posts: 19,581
Received 13,205 Likes
on
6,553 Posts
After I ordered a used a complete Blower motor and motor resistor shipped for $95.00. I saw this on EBay. Its for Range Rover at $16.00 and appeared to be the same for the X350. It looks identical.
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
Thanks for bringing this to our attention, annamiata!
That looks like the original design rather than the revised one with longer heat sink fins, but at $16 it might be a bargain if it lasts as long as the original ones did.
Cheers,
Don
#67
After I ordered a used a complete Blower motor and motor resistor shipped for $95.00. I saw this on EBay. Its for Range Rover at $16.00 and appeared to be the same for the X350. It looks identical.
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
#70
I had similar problem about a week ago. Looked through this forum decided that I had to try mending it on my own, as local Jaguar dealership told they had no idea how to fix it.
Anyway, it occurs that this part is fixable without much problems. It has a thermal fuse (114 degree Celsius) that needs to be changed if this part fails. Mended it for about $15 at local computer shop (I have no idea how to use soldering iron, so used some help) it took exactly 10 minutes to fix. Just do not forget to bring one 114 degree thermal fuse with you (I bought it for $1).
Taking this part out and putting it back takes much more time and it is super uncomfortable. There is limited room because of the seat and I would definitely recommend taking the glove box out (reconnecting two connectors is really easy). The screws that hold this part are longer than I have anticipated and are pretty hard to reach.
Anyway, it occurs that this part is fixable without much problems. It has a thermal fuse (114 degree Celsius) that needs to be changed if this part fails. Mended it for about $15 at local computer shop (I have no idea how to use soldering iron, so used some help) it took exactly 10 minutes to fix. Just do not forget to bring one 114 degree thermal fuse with you (I bought it for $1).
Taking this part out and putting it back takes much more time and it is super uncomfortable. There is limited room because of the seat and I would definitely recommend taking the glove box out (reconnecting two connectors is really easy). The screws that hold this part are longer than I have anticipated and are pretty hard to reach.
#71
After I ordered a used a complete Blower motor and motor resistor shipped for $95.00. I saw this on EBay. Its for Range Rover at $16.00 and appeared to be the same for the X350. It looks identical.
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
New Blower Motor-Resistor Fits Land Rover LR3 LR4 Range Rover Sport V8 LR031677
#72
Sorry for getting in the old post but it's relevant now. I grounded the black wire (as you said) but fan didn't run so that means the BCM is not bad?
But fan is good too, I checked it by connecting it directly it to the battery terminals and fan runs perfectly so if both fan and BCM are good then where counld be the problem? All the fuses are good, I swap the relays too so assuming they are good too. Thanks
But fan is good too, I checked it by connecting it directly it to the battery terminals and fan runs perfectly so if both fan and BCM are good then where counld be the problem? All the fuses are good, I swap the relays too so assuming they are good too. Thanks
#73
Sorry for getting in the old post but it's relevant now. I grounded the black wire (as you said) but fan didn't run so that means the BCM is not bad?
But fan is good too, I checked it by connecting it directly it to the battery terminals and fan runs perfectly so if both fan and BCM are good then where counld be the problem? All the fuses are good, I swap the relays too so assuming they are good too. Thanks
But fan is good too, I checked it by connecting it directly it to the battery terminals and fan runs perfectly so if both fan and BCM are good then where counld be the problem? All the fuses are good, I swap the relays too so assuming they are good too. Thanks
Follow steps 1 & 2 that Glendoramike outlined at the very beginning of this thread. The way this system works is that with the climate control turned on, the blower control module's only function is simply to provide a variable ground to the black wire of the blower fan. This in turn determines the speed of the fan. Otherwise, the fan will not run at all since the black wire is actually a floating ground. Conversely, the white wire is always maintained at 12VDC.
Last edited by Rickkk; 12-07-2020 at 08:59 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (12-07-2020)
#74
Can't say for sure about yours, but when mine quit working, just replaced the module, and life is good.
Had been reading about this very issue, & the day before mine quit working, its replacement arrived.
Do like to have known wear parts on hand, but the timing on this was close.
Was going to try to repair the old one, but as inexpensive as they are.
Its seems that its just cheaper, & easier to replace. so i ordered another spare for the shelf.
Had been reading about this very issue, & the day before mine quit working, its replacement arrived.
Do like to have known wear parts on hand, but the timing on this was close.
Was going to try to repair the old one, but as inexpensive as they are.
Its seems that its just cheaper, & easier to replace. so i ordered another spare for the shelf.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (12-07-2020)
#75
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
Posts: 19,581
Received 13,205 Likes
on
6,553 Posts
Sorry for getting in the old post but it's relevant now. I grounded the black wire (as you said) but fan didn't run so that means the BCM is not bad?
But fan is good too, I checked it by connecting it directly it to the battery terminals and fan runs perfectly so if both fan and BCM are good then where counld be the problem? All the fuses are good, I swap the relays too so assuming they are good too. Thanks
But fan is good too, I checked it by connecting it directly it to the battery terminals and fan runs perfectly so if both fan and BCM are good then where counld be the problem? All the fuses are good, I swap the relays too so assuming they are good too. Thanks
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It is great to have you with us!
It will help others help you if you will include the year, model and engine of your Jaguar in your posts, since circuit design and details vary greatly among models. An easy way to be sure these details appear in all of your posts is to visit your User Control Panel and edit your signature to include your vehicle's details.
Also, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.
Cheers,
Don
The following users liked this post:
AD2014 (12-07-2020)
#77
Follow steps 1 & 2 that Glendoramike outlined at the very beginning of this thread. The way this system works is that with the climate control turned on, the blower control module's only function is simply to provide a variable ground to the black wire of the blower fan. This in turn determines the speed of the fan. Otherwise, the fan will not run at all since the black wire is actually a floating ground. Conversely, the white wire is always maintained at 12VDC.
All buttons and lights come on normal on the climate control panel.
Car was purchased with sunroof leaking so water was coming in passenger side foot area, cabin filter was also very dirty with leaves and mud, all fixed but possibly water damage occured somewhere? It's an 04 xj8 4.2.
Thanks
#78
Check F7 which is a 40A fuse. If the fuse checks okay, verify that you have +12VDC power at F7 with the climate control on. Make certain that you have the negative lead of your voltmeter attached to a known good ground (preferably the negative terminal of the battery)
Check F16 which is a 10A fuse. If the fuse checks okay, verify that you have +12VDC power at F16 with the climate control on.
Check for power across the blower relay coil (86S & RU). RU (negative) will be the red wire with the blue stripe. 86S (positive) will be the NG wire.
Check 59 for +12VDC power.
Follow these steps in the listed order.
Check F16 which is a 10A fuse. If the fuse checks okay, verify that you have +12VDC power at F16 with the climate control on.
Check for power across the blower relay coil (86S & RU). RU (negative) will be the red wire with the blue stripe. 86S (positive) will be the NG wire.
Check 59 for +12VDC power.
Follow these steps in the listed order.
Last edited by Rickkk; 12-11-2020 at 01:59 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (12-11-2020)
#79
FWIW, I was able to replace the blower control module on my 2004 XJ8 (X350) using the LR4 part. The part is manufactured by ISUMO and cost $15 delivered from a seller on eBay that came up when I searched by the Jaguar part number. The part is labeled BMR555. The eBay vehicle compatibility tool will tell you that it's not a match, but it worked anyway.
Just in case, I ordered the exact same part from a seller on Amazon for over $50. Both are labeled BMR555 It comes in the same cardboard box, but has the Jaguar part number on a sticker instead. I will be returning the more expensive part to Amazon.
The trickiest part of the job for me was getting the glove box back together because I couldn't see how to get it back onto the bracket where the two nuts hold on horizontally. Once that happened, the rest was simple. The "solution" never presented itself, but was just a lot of twisting around on the floor and cursing. I'm sure there's a smarter, faster technique, but I could not figure it out. The good news is that it all worked in the end. For me, it took about 2 hours due to the issue of putting it back together. I was glad to save the trip to the dealer and the $200+ part.
Thanks, guys!
Just in case, I ordered the exact same part from a seller on Amazon for over $50. Both are labeled BMR555 It comes in the same cardboard box, but has the Jaguar part number on a sticker instead. I will be returning the more expensive part to Amazon.
The trickiest part of the job for me was getting the glove box back together because I couldn't see how to get it back onto the bracket where the two nuts hold on horizontally. Once that happened, the rest was simple. The "solution" never presented itself, but was just a lot of twisting around on the floor and cursing. I'm sure there's a smarter, faster technique, but I could not figure it out. The good news is that it all worked in the end. For me, it took about 2 hours due to the issue of putting it back together. I was glad to save the trip to the dealer and the $200+ part.
Thanks, guys!
#80
Blower repaired and running again
Many thanks Glendoramike for the detailed description on how to change the blower control module on our '04VDP. Without all of your photos and guidance removing and reinstalling of the glovebox would have been a real challenge. The listing of the hidden attachments and tips on getting the box out and back in were of special help. Everything is back together and we once again have cooling/heating performing normally again.
Slate04VDP
Slate04VDP
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)