Brake pedal travel...
#1
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For those of you who drive your XJ's everyday, what is the average brake pedal travel for you in applying your brakes "normally"?
I drive my XKR everyday, but sometimes I drive my wife's VDP. While I don't expect her brake pedal to feel the same as my car, the pedal seems to travel too far before I start feeling any braking. I have also recently (within a couple months) put new EBC Redstuff pads on all 4 wheels, so her brakes are practically new. I also replaced the front rotors when I put the new pads on. I also bled the entire system.
I recently bought my son the exact same car - 2005 VDP. His brakes were "renewed" by the previous owner, and the pedal feels much better - doesn't travel as far before you feel the car start to brake. I had a Jag mechanic drive my wife's VDP and he says the brake pedal travel is fine. But given that the car I just bought my son operates differently I know there is something going on somewhere.
Could it be the seals on the plunger in the master cyllinder shaft are leaking slightly and letting brake fluid past until a higher pressure is reached?
I drive my XKR everyday, but sometimes I drive my wife's VDP. While I don't expect her brake pedal to feel the same as my car, the pedal seems to travel too far before I start feeling any braking. I have also recently (within a couple months) put new EBC Redstuff pads on all 4 wheels, so her brakes are practically new. I also replaced the front rotors when I put the new pads on. I also bled the entire system.
I recently bought my son the exact same car - 2005 VDP. His brakes were "renewed" by the previous owner, and the pedal feels much better - doesn't travel as far before you feel the car start to brake. I had a Jag mechanic drive my wife's VDP and he says the brake pedal travel is fine. But given that the car I just bought my son operates differently I know there is something going on somewhere.
Could it be the seals on the plunger in the master cyllinder shaft are leaking slightly and letting brake fluid past until a higher pressure is reached?
#2
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Two thoughts. 1.Your brake fluid needs to be flushed. Old fluid is nasty
stuff.
2. Redo the bleed procedure with a vacuum pump device.
RR.LR,RF&LR
I'm not saying something else may be in play but "simple things first". I tend to discount what your mechanic says because the XJ brake feel is amoung the best feeling, well modulated and satisfactory systems in the business.
Do report back.
stuff.
2. Redo the bleed procedure with a vacuum pump device.
RR.LR,RF&LR
I'm not saying something else may be in play but "simple things first". I tend to discount what your mechanic says because the XJ brake feel is amoung the best feeling, well modulated and satisfactory systems in the business.
Do report back.
#4
#5
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I had an 05 XJR with Brembos followed quickly buy an 07 XK with base model brakes. For me, not a dimes worth of difference between the 2 as far as brakes were concerned. Both had standard issue pads.
#6
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For those of you who drive your XJ's everyday, what is the average brake pedal travel for you in applying your brakes "normally"?
I drive my XKR everyday, but sometimes I drive my wife's VDP. While I don't expect her brake pedal to feel the same as my car, the pedal seems to travel too far before I start feeling any braking. I have also recently (within a couple months) put new EBC Redstuff pads on all 4 wheels, so her brakes are practically new. I also replaced the front rotors when I put the new pads on. I also bled the entire system.
I recently bought my son the exact same car - 2005 VDP. His brakes were "renewed" by the previous owner, and the pedal feels much better - doesn't travel as far before you feel the car start to brake. I had a Jag mechanic drive my wife's VDP and he says the brake pedal travel is fine. But given that the car I just bought my son operates differently I know there is something going on somewhere.
Could it be the seals on the plunger in the master cyllinder shaft are leaking slightly and letting brake fluid past until a higher pressure is reached?
I drive my XKR everyday, but sometimes I drive my wife's VDP. While I don't expect her brake pedal to feel the same as my car, the pedal seems to travel too far before I start feeling any braking. I have also recently (within a couple months) put new EBC Redstuff pads on all 4 wheels, so her brakes are practically new. I also replaced the front rotors when I put the new pads on. I also bled the entire system.
I recently bought my son the exact same car - 2005 VDP. His brakes were "renewed" by the previous owner, and the pedal feels much better - doesn't travel as far before you feel the car start to brake. I had a Jag mechanic drive my wife's VDP and he says the brake pedal travel is fine. But given that the car I just bought my son operates differently I know there is something going on somewhere.
Could it be the seals on the plunger in the master cyllinder shaft are leaking slightly and letting brake fluid past until a higher pressure is reached?
I also had the car Md inspected just 2 days ago and I have almost full pads and the rotors are perfect all the way around. Pads and rotor thickness was going to my second guess so thats out.
I have driven a 2004 S, 99 XK and a 05 XJL all with normal feeling brakes. The 05 VDP and my car both have softer feeling brakes.
Without a ruler my gues would be that the free travel seems to be about 2 inches before you meet resistance. In that 2 inches you have command of the brakes and as a matter of fact it seems that you stop before you meet to much of the resistance.
I'm not worried about the pedal feel as of yet, but if the pedal seems to be traveling more towards the floor as the brakes wear it's time to take another look.
There is the outside chance that the calipiers are sticking on the slides. This happened on my truck actually it did it on all 4 corners. 2003 F350 it was a flood vehicle, of course I wasn't told about that. Back on track there was other weirdness like rotors warping etc that plagued the brakes till I found this problem. Dealer never found it.
#7
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Regarding soft brake pedal, the reason I emphasize brake bleeding before anything else is past experience and the expense of pursuing other solutions.
Back when I had an XKS, the work of brake bleeding had to be done just right in order to get a "good" pedal. It's the same with XJs. The smallest amount of air anywhere in that system can have you chasing ghosts forever.
Some years later after flushing the brake fluid on my 05 XJR I had one hell of a time getting the pedal back to my satisfaction. I was using the positive pressure at the fluid reservoir technique followed by the 2 man (well wife) technique -- no joy. Neither did the trick but I knew how good the pedal could be because it was great before I started the job.
Anyway, I went down to Harbor Freight Tools, bought a cheep but proper vacuum brake bleed kit and problem solved. Hope it's that simple for you blokes.
There are mechanics/techs out there who just can't be bothered getting that last bit of satisfaction.
Back when I had an XKS, the work of brake bleeding had to be done just right in order to get a "good" pedal. It's the same with XJs. The smallest amount of air anywhere in that system can have you chasing ghosts forever.
Some years later after flushing the brake fluid on my 05 XJR I had one hell of a time getting the pedal back to my satisfaction. I was using the positive pressure at the fluid reservoir technique followed by the 2 man (well wife) technique -- no joy. Neither did the trick but I knew how good the pedal could be because it was great before I started the job.
Anyway, I went down to Harbor Freight Tools, bought a cheep but proper vacuum brake bleed kit and problem solved. Hope it's that simple for you blokes.
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Last edited by user 2029223; 06-23-2012 at 07:26 AM.
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Correction: changed "super dot 4 is recommended to seems to be recommended"
Last edited by ooootis; 06-23-2012 at 10:55 AM. Reason: correction
#10
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The 'super' in super DOT 4 is apparently a marketing name, not a separate or distinct type of fluid. There's no evidence anywhere that the fluid marketed under this name is any better or different than any other DOT 4 fluid. There's plenty of advertising regarding the higher boiling point of a given brand of super DOT 4, but this boiling point is no higher than fluids from other manufacturers that do not attach the 'super' name.
Here's a reference to the actual certification levels:
DOT 4 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I'm not going near the subject of the need or benefits of changing fluid either, this poor horse
needs a well deserved weekend off every now and then.
As for the low brake pedal, a caliper that's not free to slide on it's pins as mentioned by ooooooootis will do exactly that. Check all four.
Here's a reference to the actual certification levels:
DOT 4 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I'm not going near the subject of the need or benefits of changing fluid either, this poor horse
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As for the low brake pedal, a caliper that's not free to slide on it's pins as mentioned by ooooooootis will do exactly that. Check all four.
#12
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Regarding soft brake pedal, the reason I emphasize brake bleeding before anything else is past experience and the expense of pursuing other solutions.
Back when I had an XKS, the work of brake bleeding had to be done just right in order to get a "good" pedal. It's the same with XJs. The smallest amount of air anywhere in that system can have you chasing ghosts forever.
Some years later after flushing the brake fluid on my 05 XJR I had one hell of a time getting the pedal back to my satisfaction. I was using the positive pressure at the fluid reservoir technique followed by the 2 man (well wife) technique -- no joy. Neither did the trick but I knew how good the pedal could be because it was great before I started the job.
Anyway, I went down to Harbor Freight Tools, bought a cheep but proper vacuum brake bleed kit and problem solved. Hope it's that simple for you blokes.
There are mechanics/techs out there who just can't be bothered getting that last bit of satisfaction.
Back when I had an XKS, the work of brake bleeding had to be done just right in order to get a "good" pedal. It's the same with XJs. The smallest amount of air anywhere in that system can have you chasing ghosts forever.
Some years later after flushing the brake fluid on my 05 XJR I had one hell of a time getting the pedal back to my satisfaction. I was using the positive pressure at the fluid reservoir technique followed by the 2 man (well wife) technique -- no joy. Neither did the trick but I knew how good the pedal could be because it was great before I started the job.
Anyway, I went down to Harbor Freight Tools, bought a cheep but proper vacuum brake bleed kit and problem solved. Hope it's that simple for you blokes.
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#13
#14
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I am appreciative of the info presented in the thread. Speaking for myself, I am aware of the need to change the fluid or bleed as needed when doing brakes. As as I stated in my original post, I actually bled my entire system. Perhaps I should have been clear enough to state that I completely replaced the old fluid, which is what I did. I am 99% positive there is no air in my system.
My apologies to anyone that was offended for talking about/mentioning the fluid.
The feel of the pedal in these cars seems to vary, but most say the pedal action is soft.
I think I'll leave it at that.
Thanks again to those that responded.
My apologies to anyone that was offended for talking about/mentioning the fluid.
The feel of the pedal in these cars seems to vary, but most say the pedal action is soft.
I think I'll leave it at that.
Thanks again to those that responded.
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#16
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No need to apologise for asking a question, thats how we have so many threads with valuable info.
To follow up, yesterday I had the opportunity to sit in stop and go at the airport and It appeared right then that the break pedal was a lot higher. So I went out and took a visual measurement and played with the pedal adjustment. Seemed to be the same adjusted all the way to floor on up. That was a casual thought last night that it may be a geometry thing.
I only saw and an Inch of travel before it met resistance. Might be a mind over matter thing. Mine seem fine for now!!?? I'll have to drive it a bit more before I declare a victory with the bleeding.
I have only driving the car a handful of miles since all the work has been done. Last night was a long trip and all seemed fine.
Headed out to watch the Md Blue crabs play this evening. Thats a good hours run to the ball park.
Dave.
To follow up, yesterday I had the opportunity to sit in stop and go at the airport and It appeared right then that the break pedal was a lot higher. So I went out and took a visual measurement and played with the pedal adjustment. Seemed to be the same adjusted all the way to floor on up. That was a casual thought last night that it may be a geometry thing.
I only saw and an Inch of travel before it met resistance. Might be a mind over matter thing. Mine seem fine for now!!?? I'll have to drive it a bit more before I declare a victory with the bleeding.
I have only driving the car a handful of miles since all the work has been done. Last night was a long trip and all seemed fine.
Headed out to watch the Md Blue crabs play this evening. Thats a good hours run to the ball park.
Dave.
#17
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Please review this link in FAQ. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...service-61323/
There are two "PDF attachments TSB's" for the bleeding the rear calipers and recalibrating the electric integrated parking brake system which you may want to review. Its appears that you have been very through with the brake job. It may be just ruling out other possibilities. It sounds like the rear rotors are the only thing you didn't change which may be looking good but have reduced thickness. I bled the system multiple times until I was satisfied but I used the "old style" two person method and that seems to be the easiest most effective cure usually.
There are two "PDF attachments TSB's" for the bleeding the rear calipers and recalibrating the electric integrated parking brake system which you may want to review. Its appears that you have been very through with the brake job. It may be just ruling out other possibilities. It sounds like the rear rotors are the only thing you didn't change which may be looking good but have reduced thickness. I bled the system multiple times until I was satisfied but I used the "old style" two person method and that seems to be the easiest most effective cure usually.
Last edited by edobernig; 06-24-2012 at 10:38 AM.
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