Brighter Xenons
#21
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,,, No bumper removal! Thank the gods.
The only thing I would add is that to make the removal of the power supply line even easier it is possible to back out the bulb assembly into the void towards the fender. In this way the 'bulb' part is now completely released from the plastic enclosure and you can turn the piece around to see the plug you're trying to unhook.
$40 + 20 minutes (total for both sides) =
The only thing I would add is that to make the removal of the power supply line even easier it is possible to back out the bulb assembly into the void towards the fender. In this way the 'bulb' part is now completely released from the plastic enclosure and you can turn the piece around to see the plug you're trying to unhook.
$40 + 20 minutes (total for both sides) =
![Icon Woot](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_woot.gif)
#23
#24
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Agreed. For as long as the car is off (and no key on key folb to make sure nothing else is on), there's no need to disconnect the battery to replace those globes in line with the method described above.
#25
#27
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Seth, I figured out how to get the indicator bulbs out and back but now struggling to get back covers on again. Being such a pain i have decided to replace my HID units while i have the covers off. Also people who i follow tell me my HIDs are different colors. Maybe that one was replace on my 2005 under warranty back in 2008. However looking for replacement i find two Sylvania options - The original replacement at Sylvania D1S Basic ($99) and another, the Sylvania D1S zXe ($115). It would seem the later is whiter brighter light. Any idea if this zXe will fit with no other mods? Appreciate anyone advice/experience.
#28
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Hi Seth, I figured out how to get the indicator bulbs out and back but now struggling to get back covers on again. Being such a pain i have decided to replace my HID units while i have the covers off. Also people who i follow tell me my HIDs are different colors. Maybe that one was replace on my 2005 under warranty back in 2008. However looking for replacement i find two Sylvania options - The original replacement at Sylvania D1S Basic ($99) and another, the Sylvania D1S zXe ($115). It would seem the later is whiter brighter light. Any idea if this zXe will fit with no other mods? Appreciate anyone advice/experience.
#29
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Seth, I figured out how to get the indicator bulbs out and back but now struggling to get back covers on again. Being such a pain i have decided to replace my HID units while i have the covers off. Also people who i follow tell me my HIDs are different colors. Maybe that one was replace on my 2005 under warranty back in 2008. However looking for replacement i find two Sylvania options - The original replacement at Sylvania D1S Basic ($99) and another, the Sylvania D1S zXe ($115). It would seem the later is whiter brighter light. Any idea if this zXe will fit with no other mods? Appreciate anyone advice/experience.
The difference in colour is due to the colour temperture. The higher the colour temprature measured in Kelvin temperature rating, the more blue/violet the light becomes and the less useable that light output would be. Higher color temperatures are known as cool colors (5000K and up) and produce bluish white to violet light while lower color temperatures (5000K and down) are called warm colors and produce yellowish white to red.
In short, I read somewhere that colour ranges in the 3000s produce a yellowish colour, 5000Ks: pure white, 6000Ks: crystal white, 8000Ks: light blue, 10,000K blue, 12000K violet
Best wishes
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Jagnut07 (05-14-2017)
#30
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Many thanks, good explanation. I am going to go with the zXe at 5000k and see how they work. I am also going to change the main beams for Sylvania Halogen zXe at the same time and see how they all work together.
#31
#32
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Changed out my lamps about a year ago. Here is the link to what I bought (way less expensive than the Sylvania equivalent and they have been in the car since January 2016).
Also, there are some tricks to getting the assemblies back together which are found on this site as well. Small, long fingers help! :-). Did 4 lamps in less than 30 minutes after initially struggling, then finally doing more searching, reading and printing.
In any case, I went with 10,000K lamps. Not too blue, but give the car (2005 XJR) a much more current look. Then I also changed out the fog lamps. Went to amber. Here is the link for those;
Best of luck.
Also, there are some tricks to getting the assemblies back together which are found on this site as well. Small, long fingers help! :-). Did 4 lamps in less than 30 minutes after initially struggling, then finally doing more searching, reading and printing.
In any case, I went with 10,000K lamps. Not too blue, but give the car (2005 XJR) a much more current look. Then I also changed out the fog lamps. Went to amber. Here is the link for those;
Best of luck.
#33
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Two important things to consider, the lower the color temp - higher Kelvin- the lower the lumen output, 4200 is brighter than 5000 and 5000 is brighter than 6000 though probably within a safe range, however 10k is going to be too dim. The other concern is using off brand bulbs, I would not risk using a cheap non major brand that could explode and damage an expensive lamp assembly going with Sylvania, Osram, Philips, etc for only a little higher cost is a no brainer to me.
Changed out my lamps about a year ago. Here is the link to what I bought (way less expensive than the Sylvania equivalent and they have been in the car since January 2016).
https://www.amazon.com/Xenon-Headlig...ype=automotive
Also, there are some tricks to getting the assemblies back together which are found on this site as well. Small, long fingers help! :-). Did 4 lamps in less than 30 minutes after initially struggling, then finally doing more searching, reading and printing.
In any case, I went with 10,000K lamps. Not too blue, but give the car (2005 XJR) a much more current look. Then I also changed out the fog lamps. Went to amber. Here is the link for those;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best of luck.
https://www.amazon.com/Xenon-Headlig...ype=automotive
Also, there are some tricks to getting the assemblies back together which are found on this site as well. Small, long fingers help! :-). Did 4 lamps in less than 30 minutes after initially struggling, then finally doing more searching, reading and printing.
In any case, I went with 10,000K lamps. Not too blue, but give the car (2005 XJR) a much more current look. Then I also changed out the fog lamps. Went to amber. Here is the link for those;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best of luck.
#34
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've now checked again and timed myself. This time I beat my previous record and completed the entire procedure for the right hand side in just under 8 minutes!
I have taken pictures of the step by step procedure I followed (similar to the above quoted procedure) and this is my contribution to assist fellow forumisters to understand what we are talking about.
Here it goes (See pictures labelled Step 1-7 for your reference. PS. Can anyone tell me how I can attach pictures so that each step can have its picture under the step text?):
1. Remove the front engine plastic cover by removing 6 plastic "screws" as shown in picture 1 (step 1 pic).
2. Note the position of the wire clip holding the plastic cover against the light unit, and Unclip wire holding the HID light unit as shown in picture 2 & 2b
3. Push plastic HID light cover backwards from the top, then wiggle it left to right to loosen the bottom. PS. You may need to slide your finger downwards to loosen the bottom part of the plastic light cover. See picture 3
4. To remove the plastic cover from the "hole", tilt it slightly sideways with the top part pointing towards the middle of the car. See pic 4
5. Pull it upwards to remove it. NB. The bottom part of the plastic cover is bigger and you may need to use a little bit of "force", not excessive, just a little nudge out. See pic 5
6. Remove the electric wiring from the D1S HID bulb before unclipping its wire holding the globe in its slot. See pic 6
7. Unclip the wire holder and remove the globe. to get to this stage from step 1, will take you roughly 5 minutes or less. See pic 7, 7b, 7c
8. To close up, indeed you need to follow the above steps in reverse, but let me caution you by outlining the following:
8.1. You will find step 6 too time consuming if you have gigantic fingers like mine. It is not easy to clot in the electric wiring onto the D1S HID bulb. It takes patience, silence, and lots of sunlight for first timers as you may find yourself easily spending 5-10 minutes trying to slot the electric wiring in. Once in, the biggest hurdle would have been overcome.
8.2 The next big hurdle, albeit slightly less intense is completing step 4 to replace the plastic cover. the trick here is to first hook in the lower tip onto a rectangular wire clip at the bottom to ensure that the plastic cover is airtight once you've clipped its wire holding it tightly against the HID light unit. You need to ensure that the cover neatly slots in the guides and is airtight before you clip on the wire holding it against the light unit. Once done, then the job is done. I reckon for first timers, completing this step can take another 5-10 minutes.
In total, for first timers, it could take you 30-40 minutes to replace one side. Perhaps less for the other side. With lots and lots of practice, you can beat my current record and do it under 8 minutes per globe.
Good luck.
I have taken pictures of the step by step procedure I followed (similar to the above quoted procedure) and this is my contribution to assist fellow forumisters to understand what we are talking about.
Here it goes (See pictures labelled Step 1-7 for your reference. PS. Can anyone tell me how I can attach pictures so that each step can have its picture under the step text?):
1. Remove the front engine plastic cover by removing 6 plastic "screws" as shown in picture 1 (step 1 pic).
2. Note the position of the wire clip holding the plastic cover against the light unit, and Unclip wire holding the HID light unit as shown in picture 2 & 2b
3. Push plastic HID light cover backwards from the top, then wiggle it left to right to loosen the bottom. PS. You may need to slide your finger downwards to loosen the bottom part of the plastic light cover. See picture 3
4. To remove the plastic cover from the "hole", tilt it slightly sideways with the top part pointing towards the middle of the car. See pic 4
5. Pull it upwards to remove it. NB. The bottom part of the plastic cover is bigger and you may need to use a little bit of "force", not excessive, just a little nudge out. See pic 5
6. Remove the electric wiring from the D1S HID bulb before unclipping its wire holding the globe in its slot. See pic 6
7. Unclip the wire holder and remove the globe. to get to this stage from step 1, will take you roughly 5 minutes or less. See pic 7, 7b, 7c
8. To close up, indeed you need to follow the above steps in reverse, but let me caution you by outlining the following:
8.1. You will find step 6 too time consuming if you have gigantic fingers like mine. It is not easy to clot in the electric wiring onto the D1S HID bulb. It takes patience, silence, and lots of sunlight for first timers as you may find yourself easily spending 5-10 minutes trying to slot the electric wiring in. Once in, the biggest hurdle would have been overcome.
8.2 The next big hurdle, albeit slightly less intense is completing step 4 to replace the plastic cover. the trick here is to first hook in the lower tip onto a rectangular wire clip at the bottom to ensure that the plastic cover is airtight once you've clipped its wire holding it tightly against the HID light unit. You need to ensure that the cover neatly slots in the guides and is airtight before you clip on the wire holding it against the light unit. Once done, then the job is done. I reckon for first timers, completing this step can take another 5-10 minutes.
In total, for first timers, it could take you 30-40 minutes to replace one side. Perhaps less for the other side. With lots and lots of practice, you can beat my current record and do it under 8 minutes per globe.
Good luck.
does anyone know of any aftermarket ballast units that can be used without throwing up air suspension codes and the like.Also do I need a 4 or 12 pin ballast unit...... Thank you.
'06 X350.
Last edited by Colm O; 11-09-2020 at 09:18 AM. Reason: error
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