Broken Ground (earth) Stud Replacement HOW TO
#1
Broken Ground (earth) Stud Replacement HOW TO
Hidy folks. This is my 2004 XJR and like many others, I was tightening the nuts on the ground studs behind the right side head light and they snapped off. Using 8mm, 1.25 pitch, 1 ½” long bolts, lock washers, star washers, and two nuts per, I was able to replace them.
First, I drilled a pilot hole in the location of where I wanted the new studs. As I could not drill lower due to space restrictions, I had to make them a bit higher. After that, I drilled a 5/16" hole and used a wire brush to clean off the paint around both sides. I put a star washer on the bolt, put it through the hole from the back (had to unbolt the fuse block to gain access), put on a lock washer and a nut. Tightened it down and did not hold the bolt itself in place at first to ensure the star washer bit down into the metal and then tightened them all up. I put the wires on the newly created studs and was even able to use the original 13mm nuts.
Here's a few pics. You can see where the previous studs were. I made one a little higher than the other so I could keep the top and bottom wire sets. I can remove either at any time now though. Hope this helps anyone who is considering it.
First, I drilled a pilot hole in the location of where I wanted the new studs. As I could not drill lower due to space restrictions, I had to make them a bit higher. After that, I drilled a 5/16" hole and used a wire brush to clean off the paint around both sides. I put a star washer on the bolt, put it through the hole from the back (had to unbolt the fuse block to gain access), put on a lock washer and a nut. Tightened it down and did not hold the bolt itself in place at first to ensure the star washer bit down into the metal and then tightened them all up. I put the wires on the newly created studs and was even able to use the original 13mm nuts.
Here's a few pics. You can see where the previous studs were. I made one a little higher than the other so I could keep the top and bottom wire sets. I can remove either at any time now though. Hope this helps anyone who is considering it.
Last edited by ragman1171; 09-21-2014 at 07:06 PM.
#2
If you do use a new nut/bolt make sure you purchase an al
like this AL 7075 T6 Hex- Flanged Bolts : Racebolts, High Performance titanium parts at Titanium Performance
Using an alloy bolt will prevent oxidation reoccurring as you wont have dissimilar metals
Also a better way is to Tig the bolt on rather than drill a hole and use a retaining nut.
Most fastener shops will have alloy bolts fairly cheep and you wont have trouble finding someone to Tig it on if you don't have a Tig welder.
Cheers
34by151
like this AL 7075 T6 Hex- Flanged Bolts : Racebolts, High Performance titanium parts at Titanium Performance
Using an alloy bolt will prevent oxidation reoccurring as you wont have dissimilar metals
Also a better way is to Tig the bolt on rather than drill a hole and use a retaining nut.
Most fastener shops will have alloy bolts fairly cheep and you wont have trouble finding someone to Tig it on if you don't have a Tig welder.
Cheers
34by151
The following 5 users liked this post by 34by151:
abonano (09-21-2014),
AD2014 (09-23-2014),
Don B (09-21-2014),
ragman1171 (09-21-2014),
wwr (01-31-2020)
#3
If you do use a new nut/bolt make sure you purchase an al
like this AL 7075 T6 Hex- Flanged Bolts : Racebolts, High Performance titanium parts at Titanium Performance
Using an alloy bolt will prevent oxidation reoccurring as you wont have dissimilar metals
Also a better way is to Tig the bolt on rather than drill a hole and use a retaining nut.
Most fastener shops will have alloy bolts fairly cheep and you wont have trouble finding someone to Tig it on if you don't have a Tig welder.
Cheers
34by151
like this AL 7075 T6 Hex- Flanged Bolts : Racebolts, High Performance titanium parts at Titanium Performance
Using an alloy bolt will prevent oxidation reoccurring as you wont have dissimilar metals
Also a better way is to Tig the bolt on rather than drill a hole and use a retaining nut.
Most fastener shops will have alloy bolts fairly cheep and you wont have trouble finding someone to Tig it on if you don't have a Tig welder.
Cheers
34by151
The following users liked this post:
JimC64 (09-21-2014)
#4
Excellent point, 34by151. The reaction between aluminum and steel is called "galvanic corrosion." I had intended to mention that to Ragman earlier when we were exchanging PMs but I must have forgotten. Sorry, Ragman!
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 01-31-2020 at 09:35 AM.
The following users liked this post:
ragman1171 (09-22-2014)
#5
You've all got me thinking that I need to "test" this setup with some dielectric grease on the wire loops and the contact points on the bolt along with some Anti-seize on the threads where the nut contacts the bolt. Any thoughts?
#6
The main reason to use an alloy bolt (welded or drilled) is corrosion
That's the white stuff for allow (brown is rust on steel)
The reason it goes at the body is the dissimulator metals
So if you have an alloy post it will never corrode at the body again
The worst that can happen is corrosion on the bolt thread but that just a matter of replacing the bolt not repairing the radiator support panel its mounted to as well
Adding some grease or coating will slow it down but the lug will always react with the bolt over time anyway
Id rather replace a bolt than replace a bolt and repair a panel
Think of the bolt as a sacrificial anode (same as on a boat)
Corrosion is going to happen you have to choose as to where it happens on the body or the bolt. Im for the bolt every time
Cheers
34by151
That's the white stuff for allow (brown is rust on steel)
The reason it goes at the body is the dissimulator metals
So if you have an alloy post it will never corrode at the body again
The worst that can happen is corrosion on the bolt thread but that just a matter of replacing the bolt not repairing the radiator support panel its mounted to as well
Adding some grease or coating will slow it down but the lug will always react with the bolt over time anyway
Id rather replace a bolt than replace a bolt and repair a panel
Think of the bolt as a sacrificial anode (same as on a boat)
Corrosion is going to happen you have to choose as to where it happens on the body or the bolt. Im for the bolt every time
Cheers
34by151
The following 2 users liked this post by 34by151:
ragman1171 (09-22-2014),
wwr (01-31-2020)
#7
The main reason to use an alloy bolt (welded or drilled) is corrosion
That's the white stuff for allow (brown is rust on steel)
The reason it goes at the body is the dissimulator metals
So if you have an alloy post it will never corrode at the body again
The worst that can happen is corrosion on the bolt thread but that just a matter of replacing the bolt not repairing the radiator support panel its mounted to as well
Adding some grease or coating will slow it down but the lug will always react with the bolt over time anyway
Id rather replace a bolt than replace a bolt and repair a panel
Think of the bolt as a sacrificial anode (same as on a boat)
Corrosion is going to happen you have to choose as to where it happens on the body or the bolt. Im for the bolt every time
Cheers
34by151
That's the white stuff for allow (brown is rust on steel)
The reason it goes at the body is the dissimulator metals
So if you have an alloy post it will never corrode at the body again
The worst that can happen is corrosion on the bolt thread but that just a matter of replacing the bolt not repairing the radiator support panel its mounted to as well
Adding some grease or coating will slow it down but the lug will always react with the bolt over time anyway
Id rather replace a bolt than replace a bolt and repair a panel
Think of the bolt as a sacrificial anode (same as on a boat)
Corrosion is going to happen you have to choose as to where it happens on the body or the bolt. Im for the bolt every time
Cheers
34by151
Respects,
Jason
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#8
I'm facing this issue with the snapped stud now and trying to drill a hole to put a replacement bolt. How did you achieve enough clearance with the drill bit? I'm struggling with 1. clearance to drill a new hole, and 2. the length of the wires since they only seem to have a few cm of play
#9
I'm facing this issue with the snapped stud now and trying to drill a hole to put a replacement bolt. How did you achieve enough clearance with the drill bit? I'm struggling with 1. clearance to drill a new hole, and 2. the length of the wires since they only seem to have a few cm of play
The following users liked this post:
Don B (01-31-2020)
#10
I'm facing this issue with the snapped stud now and trying to drill a hole to put a replacement bolt. How did you achieve enough clearance with the drill bit? I'm struggling with 1. clearance to drill a new hole, and 2. the length of the wires since they only seem to have a few cm of play
Please let us know how you get along.
Cheers,
Don
#11
We Just did that repair as well (WORKS GREAT! by the way) We did have to pull the headlight to get good access. We used stainless steel bolt and aluminum washers on both sides of the frame. I over sized the hole so the steel wouldn't touch it. Then I used the aluminum washers between the radiator support and the steel bolt. If the washers corrode so be it. I'll replace them. But the washers will be the problem not the frame of the car. Then I painted the whole thing so no water gets in to make it even worse. I have a welder, but the existing aluminum bolt and nut corroded from the factory, so I didn't believe that would work. Since I didn't want to have to do it again in a few years I figured that it's easy enough to replace washers when the time comes.
Last edited by Steve274; 02-04-2020 at 09:19 PM. Reason: spelling
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