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Vacuum pump ran for about 45 min.
The vacuum held steady for another 45, so we added the gas.
As for posting pictures, sorry my camera is the old kind.
That you buy film for, then have developed.
Old familar things that work well, have a way of staying around.
Just look in my garage, 4 motorcycles from the 80's, & two now older Jaguars.
With both us in our 70's, no family left, we just don't take pictures anymore.
Boxes of old photos, that.we seldom look at.
The much loved pets, along with most of the people pictured.
Are no longer with us, makes one feel depressed.
Sounds a bit crazy, but I have heard from specialists here in Germany that sometimes a system can hold the vacuum, but nonetheless have a leak that only appears under high pressure, and not vacuum.
What they do here now, because of environmental issues, is not the old system of re-gassing the system with a UV-dye added to it that shows a leak under the so called black light (UV light), but
1. to pressurize the empty system with nitrogen (up to 12 bar max, I believe) and then look if the system holds the pressure. A leak can be detected with hearing where the gas escapes, or by using a special leak detection spray that creates foam where a leak is. It is the more rudimentary option of the three.
2. If the system is not yet completely empty, to use a special electronic device, a kind of sniffer that can detect halogen gases, able to detect the smallest leak (they say).
3. Same as 1., but with a special gas (called "Formiergas" in German), which is composed of 95% nitrogen and 5% hydrogen, and using an electronic sniffer for detecting leaks.
I am aware that basically the only way that can be used at home is option 1., as nitrogen, together with the adapters needed, should be fairly easily available and not too expensive, and that the equipment needed for options 2. and 3. might not be available or quite expensive, but I hope that it helps bi giving you more ideas to solve your problem.
Why was the radiator replaced? I mean, I never came across anything on this forum before about a Jaguar XJ8 radiator being replaced. Anyways, you have to find out why the compressor clutch is not engaging. As I mentioned previously, the compressor clutches of the older vehicles (at least the GM makes) sometimes had to be temporarily jumped to the battery if the refrigerant level was low. However, I'm not sure how that would work with the Jaguar XJ8s though. Being that the compressor is buried down in the deep recesses, perhaps you might have to place a jump across the A/C compressor clutch relay contactor----provided that the car has one? Since this is a modern age Jaguar (and we all know how finicky these Jaguar XJ8s can be), I am only pointing to that possibility (without necessarily recommending it).
Actually, I wouldn't trust those Jaguar service mechanics to even change my engine oil, but it might be worth a shot to pick one of their brains in this case The Climate Control wiring diagram below is for a 2005 Jaguar XJ8.
. I mean, a phone call is cheap enough.
Radiator was replaced because it was leaking coolant.
Picking their brains seems to be impossible.
The person answereing the phone asks.
Just why you want to talk to the service dept.
I will tell the service manager to return your call.
Which just NEVER seems to happen.
Or she will set up an appointment for you.
First question is what year is your vehicle?
Sorry your vehicle is just too old!!!
Perhaps it was just as well. I mean, those high school wanna be mechanics in those Jaguar dealerships would likely begin by replacing everything on sight.
Thomas is correct--you can have a system that holds vacuum but will not hold pressure.
No point trying to "jump" the compressor on this vehicle--first of all it's a PWM compressor control, you'll likely do more damage than good. Second of all, with only 25psi static there's not enough R134a in the system to function and you may further damage the compressor. I can tell you from personal experience the system can be dead flat, and as soon as you recharge it above the minimum threshold the compressor will come back on with no problem.
Sounds like you did things right with the evac/recharge, but the system isn't holding the charge. It should be a fairly large leak--which is why I asked about the condenser pipe orings. Been there done that. Look for oily residue around the connections, that's also a usual tell-tale of a leak.
Another leak area are the schrader valves themselves. I had this happen. Connected gauges, it held vacuum, held pressure. Removed gauge set, replaced caps, and next day the system was flat. Could hear the gas escaping from the schrader. They are replaceable.
I wouldn't bother with a Jag specialist for this. Any semi-competent ac shop should be able to evac/recharge and leak search the system. The shop who said he doesn't work on "Euro" cars is full of it... there is nothing more complex on this XJ's a/c system than a typical Honda.
The 8mm bolt is torqued as snug as it was, or maybe just a little more.
Rechecked it, found it was fine.
Going to try this one more time, when things cool down.
Third time's supposed to be the charm.
Just hope i can get things working again.
Finally got the fuel gauge issue squared away, then this happens.
Found the upper trans line to the radiator hose portion is leaking.
Really needs to be repaired, & the transmission fluid level adjusted.
Before i can drive the car, but want to get the a/c running first.
The car needs to be running for that.
So the transmission line repair, & fluid level will have to wait
Almost a month now since i drove it, glad the other one is drivable.
Well kids took xalty's advice, & ordered a new A/C compressor.
Seems the old ones just not up to the task any longer
Never have had any dealings with the a/c on a car.
All were used cars, with non working a/c, when purchased.
All ran well, had good heaters.
The a/c was open butterfly windows at 60+
The compressors sure do vary in their prices.
Seems a year warranty is about the adverage.
Do appreciate the input & support from everyone
Wingrider, please, don't throw away money listening to bad advice.
From the information you've provided, the system only had 25 PSI in it. You had no refrigerant left in the system, the old compressor was not turning on because the pressure was too low.
With only 25 PSI the compressor WILL NOT TURN ON!!! How can that be the fault of the compressor?
The 8mm bolts on the condenser lines are not the seal. The lines have o-rings on them. They are not compression fittings, the o-rings have to fit in the bore.
Those o-rings need to be replaced. Leave the old compressor alone unless you actually confirm it's not working. Evacuate and recharge by weight. If the system is full, you will see 100-125 PSI on the high and low sides with the system off. Once the compressor starts, you should see low side drop to 30-40psi and high side 200-250psi.
Well after two days work, with my friend that has a lift.
The new A/C compressor is finally in.
Without his help, & the lift i'd still be working on it.
The compressor was bone dry inside.
Had no oil in it at all, surprised that it ran, wondering where all the oil went?
The temperature coming out of the dash, is now reading 38 degrees.
With the temperature at the low setting, seems about right, or should it be colder?
Do appreciate everyones input helping me to solve my issues.
06-02-2023 | 03:37 PM
