Hi Ray,

I have thought of this before but have forgotten to mention it. I think I recall that some members have had trouble in the wiring harness where it passes into the trunk/boot near one of the lid hinges. I may be thinking of another model, but it might be worth searching the forum for reports of this and perhaps examining your harness where it comes into the trunk/boot to see if there are any visible signs of pinching or other distress that could lead to a shorted wire for your LH rear damper.

Don

 

Okay, today I double-checked my readings; LH Rear: TL33-1 = 11 ohms & TL-2 = 0.005 volts. RH Rear: CR23-1 = 8.7 ohms & CR23-2 = 0.038 volts

I also checked again that I do have continuity between the ASM ends and shock ends and I have?

So I still have passes on the rear volts & fails on the rear ohms?

There is no black/pink wire in the black connector in the rear centre console for me to check, but I cannot see that it matters given that (although for some inexplicable reason the rear shock wires appear to pass through this console on their way to the shocks) I do have volts, continuity and (albeit too low) ohms at the shocks?

So something is going wrong with the resistance between the ASM and the rear shocks, OR (given that my suspension appears unchanged) either the ASM or the ECU are misreading something and posting a false CATS System Fault?

Has anyone tried what I read (in a post by Cambo) in which he discussed a member who successfully used (I think) 10 ohm, 65 watt resistors plugged into the shock connectors to remove the CATS System Fault message, please?

I ask, because if I do not get my car past the annual re-registration test I will be fined for each day/week/month that I fail to do so!

Please help!

 

UPDATE: There are TWO black connectors in the Rear Centre Console, one on each side!

The first has the White/Green wire and the second connector has the black/pink wire and I (think) I found 3.000 m ohms and 11 volts....at this wire?
However, if this is a short to B+ (which I assume means battery positive terminal)? I really do not know how I am going to find it? The wires disappear into the Console just a few inches from the connector?

Should I have continuity between this Black/Pink connector wire and the Black/Pink wire at the rear L/H shock connector, please?

Regards,
Ray

 

UPDATE: I have been testing the two black connectors under the Rear Centre Console (the location of TL93 as described by the wiring diagram) and I no longer believe that they are TL93.

I have now found the following Connector under the rear seat:




However, I cannot get to test this new under-seat connector, because I cannot get it apart; I have tried pulling the red clips outwards and squeezing them in and I am also unable to free it from the plastic 'tray' it is fixed to? There appears to be a lug at the back which I have tried pressing down on as I pull but no joy? Anyone have any ideas for me to try, please?

 

Hi EsRay,

The connectors typically slip on to a flat tab like the one beside your black connector and latch with a small "nib" or ramped tooth that fits into the square hole in the tab. You can often just pull the connector off of the tab with some careful force, but inserting a small flat-bladed screwdriver between the connector and tab may help release the nib from the square hole so the black connector will slide off of the tab.

If you can get the connector off of the tab, it will probably be obvious as to how to disconnect the two halves of the connector. For connectors in dirty environments, a little WD40 spritzed onto the connector housing will sometimes make it easier to separate the two halves, just be sure to clean with electronic cleaner spray before reconnecting them.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don, it was exactly as you say.....However, turns out not the connector (TL93) I am trying to find! The wring diagram shows connector TL93 as situated 'under the rear centre console', but if it is I cannot find it there?

 

UPDATE:

Well today (just over a month since I started this post) in a fit of pique I pushed hardwood tooth picks between the female spring terminals in the CR89 ASM connector and the sides of the connector walls, thereby pinching the sprung receivers tightly together and broke the picks off in situ. Plugged it back in and CATS System Fault light is out!
DTC 2304 has cleared!!

Two things to note for anyone who has this problem in the future:

1. The wiring diagram describes how the rear left damper wires go to a separate connector (TL33) which (it says) is situated 'under the rear center console'. After an exhaustive search, I can inform you that this connector is under the rear seat in the centre underneath where the arm rest would be and so I think they must be referring to the rear entertainment centre as the 'rear center console'!

2. The spring loaded connectors at the ASM are poor; give me a good old-fashioned male and female spade terminal connection every time!

 

Sincere congratulations.

And too marks to Roger too

 

Glad you got the problem solved, a month stuck on an issue, is TOO long.
Have always believed simple but hard to find issues are part of the design.
Like your issue, a simple wire nut, eliminating the connection would have fixed it.
Rather crude, not something i would do,but to get home.

 

Thank you Cornershop, Roger was absolutely outstanding!

 

UPDATE: I have replaced the terminals in ASM CR89 with female spades and now have the correct resistance (more than 10,000 ohms) on three of the corners; however, the front right (WU) shows a variety of ohms (from 12 ohms to 25 ohms) at the damper connector, but more importantly, the WU male pin in the ASM is only showing 2.1 ohms? All the other males show more than 10,000 ohms?
It may be that my ASM is malfunctioning?
Curiously, the WU goes to a shock that has been replaced with an aftermarket air shock (not that that is really relevant because the shock is not even connected when the Pinpoint Test is failed)?
Gonna think about buying a second-hand ASM, but I have an awful feeling that it will then need to be calibrated by a Jaguar Main Dealer?
Please can anyone confirm (or otherwise) that?

 

Got the C2304 fault for "CATS System Fault" a month after scoring "deal" on a new strut from amazon.
Kitty had a leaking bag on FR, so it was leaning forward before install now its hard on all paws and rides like a skate board.
The constant vibration from being so hard is not worthy of a luxury vehicle and things start falling off so I NEEDED to fix this.
Started by get a used strut from a healthy donor from the local junk yard tossed it under hood with just the electricals connected rolled a few yards and BAM! not faults!
Thankfully the used one came with the pigtail wiring from which I could confirm with a meter was short to ground on both wires for the "new" strut but not on the originals.
Also my pigtail came out of the strut all oily and shiny indication some internal seals probably burst and fluid/oil shorted the circuitry.
Summary, am keeping the used one and looking into my warranty fineprint. Just glad I didn't take the whole car apart hunting for the "C2304-short to ground".
Hope this info helps someone on here; I saved a mighty pocket change from being on this forum!