Last week my driver's side (North America) front air shock developed a leak on my '08 VDP at 100,000 km, so I replaced both front factory shocks with Arnott aftermarket air shocks. I disconnected the battery before doing the work. When I was finished the work and reconnected the battery my entertainment panel / display lit up with "Communications Fault - Consult Dealer". By pressing "Menu", "Logo On/Off", then "Nav", the message went away and I was back to my normal Nav Map, FM Radio channels, and in-dash CD displays: but no sound. When I pressed CDC (for the rear CD changer located in the boot), nothing happened. The display just stays on Radio, in-dash CD, or Nav (whatever is displaying when I press the CDC button). When I checked the CDC in the boot I noticed the green light on the eject button was not lighting up. I had someone turn the ignition on and off while I watched the CDC in the boot and there was no sound of CD's moving back into the tray, etc. The eject button doesn't light, and nothing happens when I press it. I checked the Rear CD fuse and it is fine. I know that the Radio, in-dash CD player, and CDC are all on an optical loop, and that if one of the components on the loop isn't working there will be no sound for any of the devices, but how do I get power back to the CDC? I disconnected the battery and touched the + and - cables together to do a hard reset, but that didn't restore power to the CDC.

 

One additional note: looking closely with a flashlight I can see that one of the CDs is only partly retracted into the magazine cartridge. I tried the suggestion for stuck CD's and used the tip of an blade to try and push it a fraction of an inch at a time back into the magazine, but it won't move (it seems to want to spring back into its position when it does move at all). I assume this method won't work because there is no power going to the CD changer (green eject button is not lit). I can remove the CD changer from the boot, disassemble it and manually move the gears to retract the CD and eject the magazine, but I assume that after all that work there will still be no power to the CD changer when I reinstall it and I won't be any further ahead. I'm still not sure what there was about disconnecting the battery to replace the air shocks that caused this problem, but I have the sense some circuit that powers the CD changer was tripped and needs to be reset. I can buy a replacement CD Changer from eBay and install it, but could wind up with the same no power issue. Any one have any ideas how to 'reset' the CD changer so that it gets power?

 

The CDC contains two small motors.
One for spinning the disc and a spindle motor which
operates the disc change gear.
The first one I have changed successfully but now
I believe the the spindle one needs replacing since
the CDC is not working again.
However there is power to eject the cassette.
I suggest that you pull the thing out and have it checked over by
a HI Fi repair person.
The motors wear out and if you install an used one how long will it last?
There may be a fuse inside the CDC
New motors $4.00! I kid you not. lol

 

I found a 2008 CD changer from a wrecked '08 VDP, so when the weather warms up a bit I'll remove the defective one and hook up the replacement. When I do, I'll report back on whether it powers up. I'll also dismantle the old one and see if there is an internal fuse, etc. for others' future reference. This will be the second time since I purchased my '08 VDP 15 years ago that I've had to replace the CDC. The older I get the more difficult stretching to work inside the sidewall of the boot becomes. My car and I are both getting old! As an aside, this problem cropped up when I disconnected the battery overnight whilst installing new front air shocks. The front driver's side shock had developed a leak and wouldn't hold air. I was surprised to find that the upper and lower control arms were so rusted that I couldn't loosen them to install the Arnotts. I wound up cutting them off and replacing them with aftermarket aluminum control arms. I took the car for a long drive today on our Nova Scotia roads, which at this time of year are full of pot holes, and the new Arnott air shocks (on the medium setting) provided a much better ride than the original air shocks.

 

Quick update: I installed the replacement CD Changer, and it works like a charm. I took the old one apart and found the little circuit board that the power supply plugs into was fried. Replacing the CD Changer would be a lot easier if the fiber optic cable that plugs into it was a few inches longer. Putting the replacement CD Changer loosely in place barely gives you any room to plug the fiber optic cable back in. Because I had a hard time reaching behind it with my fingers, I thought I would use a pair of long needle nose plyers. I held the fiber optic cable connector with the plyers and inserted it that way. I managed to apply too much pressure and broke the white plastic retaining clip on the connector - but with the assistance of some duct tape it isn't going to budge.

 

Add a version or three of "Kelly forceps" AKA "locking hemostats" to your toolbox, then. Google will find them. Cheap ones are fine for a mechanic who is not also a Chirurgeon.

Long and short, large & small, right angle, 45 degree and straight. .. annd one can slip some tape or tubing over the tips for padding, if/as/when where such need arises. Handy for a lot more than just motorcars, too.

Bought once, don't really "wear out" hence saving my **** for ... well over half a century ... and counting.

 

Great suggestion. I've just ordered a collection of them from Amazon.

 

LOL! My first-ever - and still smallest - one - 1960's? - ordered to heat-sink delicate semiconductors whilst soldering their leads - was about a dollar from one of "the usual" pre-Amazon newsprint rags.. Cheaper now, adjusted for inflation.

I grumbled on arrival - as it was marked "Made in Pakistan".

No fear. Works as good as it ever did.

I weren't qualifed to do open heart surgery in any case.



Though I have several USUALLY better-suited tools for it, my largest ones are strong enough to manage spring hose-clamps when awkwardness demands it.