Changing Coils and Plugs on left bank
#1
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2005 Super V8
Got the right side coils and plugs swapped out with minimal problems. I'm doing it one bank at a time since I'm used to 4 cylinder engines ;-)
Any advice on tackling the left side. I found a useful procedure on here but it was not for a SC engine and it does not mention removing the dip stick tube. Do I have to take the dip stick tube out? Are there tricks to that? What about the fuel line that runs right over cyl 6? Does that move out of the way easily?
Thanks everyone.
Got the right side coils and plugs swapped out with minimal problems. I'm doing it one bank at a time since I'm used to 4 cylinder engines ;-)
Any advice on tackling the left side. I found a useful procedure on here but it was not for a SC engine and it does not mention removing the dip stick tube. Do I have to take the dip stick tube out? Are there tricks to that? What about the fuel line that runs right over cyl 6? Does that move out of the way easily?
Thanks everyone.
#3
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Google: Fuel Line Disconnect Tool
Like this one here:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6/ref=lp_15707681_1_3/145-3101680-5555766?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1551439372&sr=1-3
Also, I don't know whether or not you already know this, but the vacuum pipe that also crosses the Coil Cover is released by squeezing the knurled 'shoulders' at the Throttle Body connection and simply pulling it off and 'hinging' it back out of your way?
Like this one here:
![https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6/ref=lp_15707681_1_3/145-3101680-5555766?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1551439372&sr=1-3](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif)
Also, I don't know whether or not you already know this, but the vacuum pipe that also crosses the Coil Cover is released by squeezing the knurled 'shoulders' at the Throttle Body connection and simply pulling it off and 'hinging' it back out of your way?
Last edited by EsRay; 03-01-2019 at 05:28 AM.
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Don B (03-01-2019)
#4
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If this helps anyone, this is my method for all of the back cylinders on a NA 4.2 liter X350. I use 2 short (about 4") extensions on my ratchet. I feed one with the spark plug socket in first, as it straightens out, I add the second and loosen the plug after a shot of wd40 in the well. Not a lot. 2 short bursts. As I draw the plug out, I pull off one extension, and its MUCH easier the get the room to go around the obstructions with the shorter length. I also remove the dipstick when it impedes cover removal and/or coil removal. I remove the breather. That's all, nothing else.
Good luck - assuming you are still at it!
Good luck - assuming you are still at it!
The following users liked this post:
Don B (03-01-2019)
#6
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Yea, so cyl #8 took 50 minutes including head scratching and trying half the tools in the box to find things that would reach. Just getting the connector off was a trial. The rest of the left bank took another 20 minutes... It runs exactly as before but I feel better. In all likelihood those were the original plugs still in place after 14 years and 108k miles.
;-)
;-)
#7
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#8
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Truly amazing that these iridium plugs last so long with virtually no (detectable) performance degradation. I considered indexing my plugs when I replaced them, just because that's the kind of obsessive stuff I do, but I realized it would be a big effort for enhancement that would be in my head. Like all those oil & gas additive users that swear "it runs so much smoother, I get .01 MPG improvement and a huge HP increase. And a good car wash makes it run better, and don't forget decals... big performance!
Yes, you can fine tune a spark to be optimal, and gaps that are way out could be detrimental, but mostly, a spark plug either fires, or doesn't. Unless you are trying for that extra minute bit of performance efficiency, there is not a lot to be gained. That last 1% of performance requires another 50% of the effort. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
Yes, you can fine tune a spark to be optimal, and gaps that are way out could be detrimental, but mostly, a spark plug either fires, or doesn't. Unless you are trying for that extra minute bit of performance efficiency, there is not a lot to be gained. That last 1% of performance requires another 50% of the effort. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
#9
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If this helps anyone, this is my method for all of the back cylinders on a NA 4.2 liter X350. I use 2 short (about 4") extensions on my ratchet. I feed one with the spark plug socket in first, as it straightens out, I add the second and loosen the plug after a shot of wd40 in the well. Not a lot. 2 short bursts. As I draw the plug out, I pull off one extension, and its MUCH easier the get the room to go around the obstructions with the shorter length. I also remove the dipstick when it impedes cover removal and/or coil removal. I remove the breather. That's all, nothing else.
Good luck - assuming you are still at it!
Good luck - assuming you are still at it!
#10
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