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Guess I should also mention that on my 06, the oil filler neck is not raised, and (not until after removing my wipers) I don't believe I have any kind of #8 access hole. Just had to cram my hands back there and fight with it. Luckily, #8 wasn't stuck like #4 was. Some serious goop stuck on the plug threads. I cleaned one old plug and rethreaded then removed it several times to get the gunk out.
Looks like my images got mixed up, the left one (with the shadow) is 8,6,4,2 and the right image is 7,5,3,1.
I got a misfire in cylinder 3, which prompted me to change the plugs on the off chance that the electrode had warn, opening up the gap to something unusable. Notice how the ground electrode on number 3 has a darker color? Turns out my COP on that cylinder had failed.
If you have a misfire on one of your cylinders (it's not jumping around, but is always the same one) I'd recommend changing the plugs (if for anything, just to work those threads loose every once in awhile) and then swap the COP for a different cylinder. If the problem follows the COP, there's your answer, if not it could be wiring or compression.
On my car at the top engine side of the brake fluid compartment there is a detachable "flap" that when removed allows easy access to that rear most plug.
On my car at the top engine side of the brake fluid compartment there is a detachable "flap" that when removed allows easy access to that rear most plug.
I sure wish our '04 XJR had that flap, but I haven't had too much difficulty working the coils and plugs out of the #7 and #8 cylinders. For the plugs, I use a combination of socket extensions and a universal joint and it's not too hard to remove and install the plugs.
I just use a conventional spark plug socket with a rubber insert that grips the plug. I like the tubing method for re-installation but on those rear cylinders where you have no direct line of sight I think it's easier with the spark plug socket and a short extension (3 in.? 6 in.?) turned by hand.
Those GearWrench magnetic spark plug sockets do look nice - I noticed the other day that Advance Auto carries them for just $10.99 in the 5/8 in. size, which is significantly lower than the eBay price.
This is the best section! I have learned a lot and am half way through. Coils removed, spark plugs next. My question...what is #10, which you quoted as not knowing what it is. I also don't know what it is but I just BROKE the hose connecting #10. It seems original and brittle.
Again, great post. Today I installed all new plugs and ignition coils. I did NOT need to go through the break reservoir area. I used 2 3" extensions and it cleared everything.
I had to remove the wrench from the setup, pull out about 4 inches then remove the first extension then the balance of the rig came out cleanly.
I wish to share my experience replacing the spark plugs of my 3.0 V6. The mechanic had to remove the wiper arms, the plastic panel above the firewall, and the intake-manifolds, and in the process, also remove the air box, air duct, throttle, etc. The plastic panel was too tight and refused to let go so in order not to break the windscreen and indeed anything around the panel, he left it in place. At least with many holding plastic screws undone, the panel was elastic enough to allow sufficient clearance for the intake manifolds to be taken out.
The mechanic said he had to remove these items to have full access to the spark plugs on the right side of the engine block, and he had to exercise great care not to break anything - plastic connectors, clips, etc. have all become brittle due to aging.
In replacing the plugs, he pointed out that mine had similar issues as with two other X-Type that he had worked on - the value cover plug well metal toppings have deformed (see picture).
He said in some cases the "ring" blew up so much that it could break the coil plastic case, possibly shorting the coil. A short-term solution is to wrap the coil; permanent solution is to replace the valve cover entirely.
I don't have the tools and the skills to DIY. Fortunately, spark plugs these days are quite long lasting and it would be many years later that that I need to worry about them.
Hey sir….thank you for this post…I couldn’t find the right info anywhere else!! How did you get the #6 out with the cables in the way? I can’t seem to maneuver it the right way.
1. Remove Engine covers on each side, they pop off but are hard extract around the piping and stuff. The centre cover unscrews and pops right off. Remove all of the clips holding the window cowl cover panel on, remove the wiper blades and the cover panels on the left and right.
2. Looking to the rear right there is a small plastic cover that allows access to the Cylinder No#8 through the brake reservoir well. Remove the clips holding this cover in place and pull it out. I had to remove the sound proofing at this time because it was in tatters and was sound proofing nothing, You probably will not have to remove it.
3. Here is the view through the hole looking at Cylinder no#8. I placed some paper there so you can see through.
4. This is the cover that was removed.
5. Now you can see my hand has access through the well to the coil pack and spark plug.
6. Right Bank Now... Once this prep work was completed, I then had access to all of the cylinders pretty much unaided. I removed all of the Coil pack cabling and then removed all of the bolts holding the coil packs in situ. One at a time I started removing the coil packs and the spark plugs.
7. Then it was a case of trial and error to get the right length of socket extension to get to the spark plug. Here we see the longest ext to get to cylinder no#8.
8. Sometimes the spark plug fell out of the spark plug socket and had to be extracted using an extending magnet.
9. Once all of the right bank were changed, re-assembly was simple. Replace and secure all of the coil packs. Attach all the cabling, refit the plastic cover by the brake reservoir well. Refit the Window Cowl cover and attach the wipers. Drivers wiper 56mm from the cowl, passenger 61mm from the cowl.
Thats the right bank done.
10. Left Bank. Remove this item (don't know its name!), remove all cabling and screws holding the coil packs in. Uisng your various length Socket extensions replace all of the spark plugs. Cylinder no#7 is easily removed if the electrical trunking cable is moved to one side and secured. A little bit of jiggery pokery and it comes out no problem.
11. Once all the spark plugs have been changed. Reassemble the left bank, screws, cabling and plastic cover. Replace the main centre cover.
Job done. I used the tape to secure the plug socket to the bottom ext bar (whichever it was at the time) as I had some difficulty pulling off the socket from the plug once it was screwed in securely.
These are the pulled old plugs. Right and left banks.
Hey sir….thank you for this post…I couldn’t find the right info anywhere else!! How did you get the #6 out with the cables in the way? I can’t seem to maneuver it the right way.
thank you so much for this tutorial . definitely helped me a lot to get this job done . I found oil in the wells of #7and8,what should do about it?
Car runs like a dream but I'm afraid that if i neglect this condition it will start going downhill . any help is greatly appreciated !!!
In that case, I fear that you need to replace the cam cover gaskets. They also include gaskets for the spark plug wells, and these may fail as well..
1. Remove Engine covers on each side, they pop off but are hard extract around the piping and stuff. The centre cover unscrews and pops right off. Remove all of the clips holding the window cowl cover panel on, remove the wiper blades and the cover panels on the left and right.
2. Looking to the rear right there is a small plastic cover that allows access to the Cylinder No#8 through the brake reservoir well. Remove the clips holding this cover in place and pull it out. I had to remove the sound proofing at this time because it was in tatters and was sound proofing nothing, You probably will not have to remove it.
3. Here is the view through the hole looking at Cylinder no#8. I placed some paper there so you can see through.
4. This is the cover that was removed.
5. Now you can see my hand has access through the well to the coil pack and spark plug.
6. Right Bank Now... Once this prep work was completed, I then had access to all of the cylinders pretty much unaided. I removed all of the Coil pack cabling and then removed all of the bolts holding the coil packs in situ. One at a time I started removing the coil packs and the spark plugs.
7. Then it was a case of trial and error to get the right length of socket extension to get to the spark plug. Here we see the longest ext to get to cylinder no#8.
8. Sometimes the spark plug fell out of the spark plug socket and had to be extracted using an extending magnet.
9. Once all of the right bank were changed, re-assembly was simple. Replace and secure all of the coil packs. Attach all the cabling, refit the plastic cover by the brake reservoir well. Refit the Window Cowl cover and attach the wipers. Drivers wiper 56mm from the cowl, passenger 61mm from the cowl.
Thats the right bank done.
10. Left Bank. Remove this item (don't know its name!), remove all cabling and screws holding the coil packs in. Uisng your various length Socket extensions replace all of the spark plugs. Cylinder no#7 is easily removed if the electrical trunking cable is moved to one side and secured. A little bit of jiggery pokery and it comes out no problem.
11. Once all the spark plugs have been changed. Reassemble the left bank, screws, cabling and plastic cover. Replace the main centre cover.
Job done. I used the tape to secure the plug socket to the bottom ext bar (whichever it was at the time) as I had some difficulty pulling off the socket from the plug once it was screwed in securely.
These are the pulled old plugs. Right and left banks.
I've got a 2018 x351 that needs it's plugs changing done the front 4 now the rear 4 are so tight I can't get my hand to them is it the same method removing the wipers and the cover etc
03-05-2017, 02:23 PM
