Let us know how this turns out. Did Arnott say what was the problem with these particular air shocks or whether there is a history of that fault with this style?

I am hoping my clunk is fixed with the new engine and transmission mount, but it looks like I may not finish until this week end. If it still clunks It would be nice to know if the shocks are a valid possible source.

 

When you install struts, you must have the vehicle at normal riding height when tightening the 60mm bolt to the lower control arm to 130 foot pounds of torque.

 

This is why you let a profession do the work and not Mickey Mouse around and do it ghetto style

 

Philwarner, I will be looking forward to your weekend project's updates! Let us know how to ttranny and engine mount replacements go for you.

 

I finished the left engine mount and tranny mount late Saturday - well, almost finished. I was able to turn the upper front engine mount bracket bolt a few more turns, but did not get it tight. Letting the engine down on the new mount gave better access with a long extension and universal, but the angle is still not good, it was taking 30 foot pounds or more to turn the bolt, and the 13mm socket still wants to slip off. I tried first with the engine weight off the bracket and the other three bolts backed off a few flats and then with the other bolts torqued to spec. and the engine weight on the mount, but had about the same difficulty both ways. I also tried using a 13mm flare nut crows-foot on a universal and on a wobble joint extension but, while it did let the extension be offset more from the top of the mount, being also offset from the bolt head I couldn't push it on with any force and it wouldn't stay on the head any better than the socket.

So...everything but that one darn bolt is back together and torqued up to spec., the tranny mount was definitely bad and the new one holds the tranny 1/2" higher, acceleration is much quieter and smoother, nothing kicks you in the bottom of the seat going over railroad tracks, but (and this is a big BUT)....there is still a clunk! It's not as much as before, but still a clunk in the front. I took more photos if anyone is curious, but the camera is still in the landy discovery at the shop, so it will be later tonight before I get them off-loaded.

One concern was getting the steering universal back on the steering rack spline in the right position, but using a cold chisel as a wedge in the universal and big channel locks to squeeze it onto the spline was easier than expected and the steering wheel is straight, so whew. The tranny mount was a piece of cake using the lift with a jacking tray - maybe a 40 minute job - and I was also able to put a lot of wires back in their clips that some mechanic(?) had left off.

My thought about the bracket bolt is to maybe buy another 6pt 13mm socket and grind the opening down to eliminate the lead in chamfer and try to back the bolt out and replace it with a new one; the head is enough chewed up now from the socket slipping off under torque to make further tightening even more difficult. I just hope the bracket is OK with three tight bolts in the mean time.

 

I was afraid you were going to say that. What are your plans now?

 

Well, I have to admit Arnott is just about the most customer service oriented company, I have ever dealt with. I just received overnight from FL a brand new rebuilt pair of Bilstein tested and assembled just for my car and my application from Arnott. I will make an appointment today, to have them installed tomorrow morning. I am almost positive this will solve my noise complaint. Since they will have the struts out I will have them double check to make sure EVERYTHING is as it should be. Seeing how everything is new and has been changed and the noise didn't start until after the were rebuilt ones were installed.


These were built on 1-22-16 (as you can see by the date code) and delivered to me this AM. They didn't even make me pay this new set set. That is insanely honest and trusting of them and I on the other hand be the same way with them and send them back once the new ones are in. They made sure they were tested for noise as well as rebuilding the known defective bladders.


I am thinking that what happens is they just don't usually put new gas cartridges in them or the gas has leaked out if they did. Either way, they stand behind their product. Also note, the ride and handling is exactly as my originals were but now they don't have the exposed bladders. I think everyone is up in arms about nothing over them being comfort or sport struts. The ride and handling were identical to the originals except the bladders went. So, if your worried don't be. Arnott will stand behind their product, just give them a chance.

 

I installed the new sway bar bushings this afternoon and 95% of the clunking is gone. The job was not as bad as I had expected, I didn't even bust a knuckle or break the skin on my arms.

I had my son helping me, and we did the job on my car lift in about 90 minutes.

Here is the order that I would suggest doing this job:

a.) Get somebody to help you, two more hands are key to this job.
b.) If possible, use a lift - not required - but makes it easier.
c.) Remove left front wheel
d.) Remove left sway bar link from lower control arm
e.) Take off top engine cover
f.) Remove air box and disconnect black air tube from throttle body, place all on top of the motor.
g.) Using a 13 mm socket, undo the 4 cross bar bolts and remove. You can reach the two right bolts by reaching across from where the air box was.
h.) Using a 13 mm socket, extensions and universal have your friend loosen the 4 sway bar bushing clamp bolts while you hold the socket on the bolts.
i.) Take old bushings off and put a little grease inside new bushings to avoid squeaking and to ease the new bushing installation over the bar.
j.) Put all back together in reverse order and don't forget to torque the lug nuts.

I had taken the lower pan off, but it is not necessary. All 8 bolts can be accessed from above where the air box is located. The key is having another person to help guide the socket to the bolts.

 

Not sure what is next, but I would like to get that top bolt replaced and tightened to the 30 foot pound spec. so I can stop worring about cracking the bracket.

I might try removing an air shock to see if they have any clunk like the ones in the other thread (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj...shocks-156201/) or like Collector1 experienced, although mine are the newer AS-2710 units like the ones Arnott just sent him so I'll see how his new ones work for him.

I took photos of all the bushings while it was on the lift and some look a bit ragged, so I may have some bushing problems too. Acceleration is so much smoother and quieter now and momma is happy and it seems to track just fine, so I guess I can live with a little clunk for awhile longer.

 

OK, update. New rebuilt Bilstein from Arnott are in and no more noise. The car does ride stiffer but I will get used to it. I actually like the smoother ride of the original Arnott's but these will do. It is just a matter of getting used to them. Good luck guys. I'm happy! Arnott came through!

 

FYI, it took them 30 minutes per side to R/R them.

 

The Arnott air shocks on my SV8 dated 18.09.14 have the same part number of AS-2710 but look quite different from the photos of the new ones you posted. Are your new ones actually Bilsteins that preserve the CATS system? I am wondering if mine could be the source of the slight clunk I still have after replacing the stabilizer bar bushings, the left engine mount, and the transmission mount. Can you post a photo of the old Arnotts?

Mine were installed at the auto lot where I bought the car and had 1,200 miles on them when these photos were taken. I've driven another 2,200 miles since then and the ride has always seemed a little harsh, but I am comparing it to my 87 and 85 XJ6s with 15 Inch wheels and tires with lots of side wall.

 

Sorry, I already sent them back. Yours look similar to the ones I sent back except your bottom cover jacket isn't tightly affixed to the strut at the bottom, like the ones in the picture I posted. Yours have an odd rubber boot configuration, which isn't keeping any dirt out of the component and looks loose to me.


These are Bilstein's for sure and they have a thinner shaft than the Arnott rebuilt ones. The only thing I would say is, don't wish for something you don't want, because the Bilstein's ride much firmer than the Arnott's and I prefer a softer ride over a firmer one.


If you have a clunky suspension and you have ruled out everything, 99.9% bet, it is the struts. I tested my new old replacements and I didn't hear any noise but one retracted just ok, the other one didn't retract much at all (after full compression to the bottom stop). That tells me the gas had leaked out of both (one more than the other).

 

...

 

To avoid confusion on my part, are collector and collector1 different folks? I am getting a bit mixed up on some of these posts.

I am also confused that the Arnott AS-2710 units pictured are called Bilsteins but have Arnott stickers and stamped Arnott logos in several places.

 

[QUOTE=philwarner;1390445]To avoid confusion on my part, are collector and collector1 different folks? I am getting a bit mixed up on some of these posts.

Let me straighten out your confusion, they are one and the same. It happened because I couldn't remember my user name or password and since I went to my new IPhone I don't remember which one I am signed in nor do I have a clue as to which one I am on.
Ok, now that has been straightened out, let me correct any misinformation I might have put on line. These are Bilstein rebuilt units from Arnott. If you look, the shafts are thinner and the shrouding is also different from their usual rebuilds. My paper work even says it clear as day. Also, these are a harder ride and not as nice as they were before. The noise is gone but I really am not worried. Like I said on another post. If these don't have the CATS system functionality I couldn't care less. They work without noise and they at least make it so I can drive the car when I need a larger car to take others around in and not worry about getting my new Bentley GT Speed or my new CL 600 damaged or ridden in. The car works great and I am happy with the end result. If it has the CATS system functionality great if not great. I didn't know before and I don't know now. So, the old adage is true. What you don't know won't hurt you. This didn't cost me anything so I'm only out nothing except for 120.00 for labor.
So,for me,I'm through, I tried to help and now people who are concerned about monitory issues either replace them with the Arnott ones or not. It is a cheap alternative and since mine were replaced under warranty I'm not out anything. To be honest I preferred the softer ride of the Arnott units over the Bilstein ones but I'm done, so for me the torture is over and I now can finally drive it, when needed. Thank you and I hope I have cleared things up and helped where I could. .

 

Thanks for clearing up the collector/collector1 question; it sounded like the same issue under both names so I am glad to get your explanation.

I am also glad you cleared up the Bilstine/Arnott question. I had read somewhere that Arnott no longer offered rebuilt Bilstine units and supplied only their own design and checking their web site I see only the new units listed, but apparently there are exceptions. It seems odd that they used the same part number for your rebuilt units, but I can understand it if the rebuilts are not a common offering and they used the labels on hand.

As rebuilt OEM Bilsteins I would guess you still have the CATS functionality which, If I understand correctly, uses an electrical current to change the damping characteristice of the fluid in the shock. I am surprised that they seem harsher than the Arnott design unless the cores they had were the sport version rather than the comfort version.

The photos on the Arnott web site show a bellows design that appears to be half way between the units I have and the rebuilt Bilstiens you received. It does not appear to be clamped to the shaft as yours are.

Info from the site says:

Additional Information: AS-2710 replaces Arnott Part AS-2519 which was formerly sold only as a pair.

The Arnott designed Jaguar replacement shock has internal dampening and will come with a bypass sensor built in to bypass the Jaguar CATS and message on your dash. This shock can replace both the Sport and Comfort OE shocks with a ride that is neutral.

Thanks again for clearing up my questions, and good luck with your new air shocks. That is also quite a nice collection of luxury cars in your stable; Our SV8 may be the last luxury car we ever buy as long as it holds up with no expensive problems beyond tires and a few more bushings.

 

Let me chime in on this clunk. I started getting it early last yr, & got some bushings replaced. It got somewhat better, but didn't go away, & has now gotten MUCH worse, but I'd notice when it'd get really cold out, & the car would do it's infamous bottoming out, I'd not hear ANY thud/clunks whatsoever.

Well, last night, obviously not being cold here in Memphis, my car (frontend) bottomed out! So, of course I'm ticked about that, but the good part is that the clunk is absolutely gone! So that makes me think it's more of a bad shock(s) rattle.?

 

Since early last year I have been noticing a clonking/clicking via the steering wheel when I hit sharp-edged road bumps. Yet apparently, according to the independent shop that maintains my car, all the front suspension is well, and not worn. I should mention that said shop replaced the 'banana arm' trunnion bushes last year, and the lower shock bushes the previous year. All other bushes and ball joints are said to be in good order. Yet I have this clonking.


Shop said it seems to be a steering column thing, so I went and got out my copy of the X350 Technical Notes of 2003.5, and looked at the drawing of the steering column assembly. On the column is a thing called "Rubber NVH isolator". that looks like a coupling with the metal parts held apart by rubber bushes. It is on the driver side of the bulkhead (US = firewall, correct ??). NVH stands for Noise, Vibration, Harshness. My suspicion is that the rubber bushes have failed and I am getting suspension harshness and vibration through into the upper steering column. And of course, this being Jaguar, no doubt the whole steering column has to be replaced for the sake of a couple of bushes costing £1 each !


However, (funny how there is always a 'however' !!), I also get clonking via the pedals too, but not so pronounced.


Maybe I should buy a less complex car !!


So.... Anybody else got similar symptoms ?

 

I went through that on my 98 XJ8. Mechanic thought it was upper control arm which was bad. Still had the clunking noise. Had him put in new shocks and no more noise! Rides nice and quiet now.