With the manifold unbolted, along with everything else.
Manifold now can be moved forward a little bit.
Easier to reach now from drivers side.
A two day job if you take your time.
If one really wanted to make the most of thier time.
And these things were not already done
They would replace the radiator, thermostat with housing, the water pump.
Auxzillary water pump, along with all the removed hoses.
Don't forget about that leaking top return transmission line.
Replacing only the leaking rubber portion of the hose.
Saves you a lot of work, as well as cash.

 

I made another shot at it, and I'm glad I did. The hose under the manifold was very soft and well ballooned, by far the worst of all the hoses on the car. Now my issue is I can't find the replacement hose that I know I have! I'm afraid I stupidly tossed the box out when I was cleaning up a few days ago, so I wasted a few bucks and ordered another one.


I was able to reach those rear connectors once the manifold came forward about 6 inches. I gave up before because I didn't want to even loosen the manifold until all the connectors were out, and those two on the back are inaccessible against the firewall. The EGR pipe was a pain until I remembered that I have a ratcheting 10mm wrench in the box! I don't have the whole set, just the 8/10, but that made child's play of getting underneath for those bolts on the EGR pipe!


I also needed a u-joint on the socket extension for the rear manifold bolts, as getting the extension in vertically was not possible, and neither was getting a tool in there without an extension. That, and figuring out the three different type of connector releases (at least three...) were the only other difficulties.

For anyone's curiousity, the back of the manifold. At the left is the connector for the fuel temperature sensor, at the end of the fuel rail. In the middle is the connector for the MAP sensor, absolutely inaccessible until you lift the manifold and pull it forward to the limit of the cable. The heat-shielded tube is the vacuum pipe for the brake booster.


I see people talking about needing the gaskets between the upper and lower manifolds, but I'm not sure why anyone would actually separate those. Unless some of the years are different, the manifold lifts from the heads with the aluminum lowers attached to the plastic upper manifold, and I don't know what job would require them to actually be separated. (Maybe you can't remove the injectors? I don't know.) Anyway, I bring that up because the word is, whenever I see that discussion, is that those gaskets are unobtanium except for horrible Chinese versions that don't fit or seal well. The gaskets for the lowers onto the head are easy to get.

 

The manifold has a few small screws holding it together.
The eight small replacement gaskets are green & black.
Ebay has them $119, or best offer, with free shipping.
You have the manifold removed.
Now is the time to replace them.
Mine were leaking, but the hose was not,
Replaced it anyway, while i was in there.
Good luck to you, what ever you decide.

Have not had the pleasure of replacing the 07's yet.
Assumed that they all used the same manifold.
The 04 was one of the early ones, dated 11/1/03.

 

The new hose for under the manifold is a single-piece molding now, not the large hose coupled to a smaller hose. One wonders how many of those plastic couplers failed to prompt this change... Although this is a URO part, not Jaguar, so maybe the actual Jaguar part is still the stupid plastic coupler.

 

Regardless it's a poor design

 

Agreed, with different sizes at each end...

 

Well, I have an absolute maybe, perhaps even a solid probability, that perhaps I'm approaching the end of this road.

The correct metal intake manifold gaskets finally arrived (as opposed to the cardboard ones everyone kept shipping me,) and I put it all back together yesterday. Took a 10-minute test drive, no issues, then a couple of hours later I went on a 45-minute loop around town, with my code reader plugged in. About halfway through the 45-minute loop it threw the P0171 and P0174 codes again, which I cleared, and they stayed cleared the rest of the trip. Car runs as smoothly as could be wished for, and it holds water! A short grocery trip today, no issues, and no codes.

If the system-too-lean codes keep coming back, however temporarily, I may have to break down and have it professionally examined, like in a shop, by someone with tools and equipment and stuff. At least a smoke test to see if there's an improper opening in the intake/vacuum system.

EDIT: Something just clicked in my head... one of the broken vacuum pipes I had before was the one that applied vacuum to the fuel rail pressure sensor, located on the right-bank fuel rail. One side is manifold vacuum, the other side is fuel pressure, and it has its electrical connector. Obviously that sensor has not had manifold vacuum for who knows how many months or years that the small plastic pipe has been broken. What effect does that have on what the ECU decides about fueling? Does the fact that it now has vacuum confuse the system somehow?

 

If the FPR does not have a vacuum source it should be setting a code?
On my 2005 STR when the FPR went bad and I unhooked it. I got a check engine light but the car ran fine. I checked and the system defaulted to a set fuel pressure and did not change since there was no vacuum input.
.
.
.

 

By unhooked, do you mean just the vacuum pipe, or the electrical connector as well? No vacuum might not set a code, but no electrical connection ought to, I would think. I definitely had no vacuum to this sensor, but I never had a code related to it. I did have codes for the secondary air injection system check valve backflow, and that system is fed from the same pickup on the throttle body, and both of those pipes were broken on my car, undiscovered until I removed the plastic engine decoration cover.

 

Not sure if one or both were disconnected?
I was getting a P0193 so that maybe from the electrical side?
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.
.

 

Well, I am declaring it REPAIRED! I've been driving it exclusively this week, to work, grocery store, whatever, and took it today to a customer about 50 miles away. The CEL has not reappeared after that first time last Saturday, and it's holding water, with an absolutely steady and centered temperature gauge.

Ta-dah!!!!

 

Nice one, congratulations!

 

I do like happy endings!

 

What I'm guessing had happened with the codes is that the ECU had to learn a new pattern after the vacuum lines were repaired. One of those broken pipes was supposed to apply manifold vacuum to the fuel pressure sensor, which obviously hasn't been happening for who-knows how long! Having repaired that pipe, and now with vacuum applied, the pressure sensor would show higher fuel pressure than the ECU had seen before, which when compared with air flow (which didn't change) would cause it to reduce flow in the injectors, i.e. lean the engine out. The ECU doesn't know the fuel pressure sensor has changed what it's reading, it just responds to the now-different reading the way it has for probably several years. The O2 sensors didn't like that, and their feedback initially threw "System too lean" codes, but eventually convinced the ECU to change its response to the fuel pressure readings it saw. Now that balance has been restored to the Universe, no more codes, engine runs like silk.

Pure guesswork on my part, but makes sense with what I know about the sensors involved.

 

Good thinking Batman