The Jag misbehaved and fouled the garage floor after our last run together.
Inspection today appears to point to a leak at the joint between the two halves of the auxiliary water pump.

I guess this ties in with the small stain that was evident on the undertray when I removed that to work on the power steering fluid change.

So, I guess I know the answer, best idea is a new pump and coolant flush?
Adding Bars Stop Leak is not the best idea?

I note the radiator has a lot of fluff on it, and there are leaves in the gap before the water cooling radiator, that do not move with a blast from my airline, so maybe a water jet will move them? Too small of a gap for a vacuum hose.

This pump is changed from above? Just the top radiator hose off and reach down, unscrew one bolt, disconnect two hoses, one electrical, reverse, refill and done?

 

I had the same problem
As our summer was just stating I just replaced the pump with an elbow

See here Plastic 90ø Elbow Hose Joiner | Plumbing | Plastic Fittings, Valves & Taps

I ordered a new pump and ran with the elbow in place all winter only putting in the new pump recently as it getting cold here now

I also repaired the old pump replacing the o ring and I have ket the old one as a spare

I'd recommend just replacing the pump as it reasonably cheep and if it going to take a bit to get the replacement just put in an eblow for now

Cheers
34by151

 

Now there's some good thinking. Do you know what ID the hoses are/what size of elbow to get?
Maybe I can do that temporary replacement, repair the pump, and and avoid spending $160 on a new one. It is late spring in Ca, I am really not worried about maximum heating efficiency, ever.

Might get one of these
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite...248A/202033078
$1.51 for repairs works well with me. Then strip and rebuild motor, I have a box of O rings in the cupboard, hopefully one of them will fit, can also make sure motor works, after 120k miles it might need brushes, or more.

 

From Memory it was 19mm, I just took one of the hoses down to the ship chandlers and matched one up

The o ring it rather thin and quite a large OD about 80mm but you can match it up when you have it apart

cheers
34by151

 

By way of giving back....
It finally got colder here and that reminded me that I had abandoned work on this repair as the GF's car had dropped a timing belt while the Jag was in bits and I had cobbled together a repair so that she could use the Jag (new o-ring into aux pump sealed the leak, chopped an inch of the leaking hose and put it back on). Now that there was a need for some heating, there was none to be had.

So, I installed the new auxiliary water pump that had arrived some 4 months before (the top hose had been installed shortly after arrival, as it was less of a job) and I went through the drain 2 gallons, add distilled water, drive 10 miles, cool engine, drain 2 gallons, for five cycles, filling with orange coolant on the last fill.
For info (and I would love to hear other's figures) after a 10 mile drive, the IR digital thermometer quotes 175-180F for the temperature at the face level air vents (car stationary), with the outer ones being 3-5F cooler. Not much difference side to side, driver vs passenger - just in case anyone is fault finding their heating system.

The thermometer has not been calibrated at that temp, but against a traceable mercury version, it is around 3F high at 90F, make of that what you will.

Let me know if anyone wants to run through a more standardised test, with outside temp, forward movement, etc