Going to ask some stupid questions here as I plan on replacing my CKP as soon as the temp rises above 25F.

When very cold and on other, less frequent occasions I get a crank no start condition. I have replaced my almost new battery with an Exide (Per Box) which has helped I think but the last battery did as well until it didn't. Per Don B I watched my RPMs while cranking and there weren't any leading me to believe I have a CKP issue. I purchased a new sensor and now the questions.

On a 2005 VDP, where exactly is this sucker located? All the pics I've seen are just cutaways that don't give any perspective. It appears to be on the bell housing.

Do you have to remove the skid plate to swap out the CKP? Less time in the freezing cold the better.

I don't have a lift or a garage for that matter, am I good on ramps or do I need to really get in there?

Hopefully this $12 part fixes this. I'll post results if I don't kill myself in the process.

 

Belay my last. The temp went way up today so I got after it. You do have to remove the skid plate and the bolt is a Torx, not the 10mm I was expecting. It was located dead center on what I think was the trans housing. It came right off. Fortunately(?) the skid plate was only held on by 5 bolts but it was still interesting getting it back on with about 5 inches of clearance between my head and the undercarriage.

When I started the car afterward I still didn't see the tach move so I'm not sure it did anything. It was warm so it started right up so I'll have to wait until the temp drops again for a real test. Worst case, it's still broken and I'm out $12. I've spend more time/money on far stupider endeavors.

 

**Update** No joy, issue remains. What a pita.

 

Hi usasnq,

I'm sorry to join your discussion late. I have moved your posts to start a new thread since your symptoms differ somewhat from those in the old thread to which you posted.

I don't recall saying that the tachometer in an X350 should read 200 rpm while cranking, but if I did, I apologize. This was certainly true for many of the earlier cars, and I have posted about this countless times. But if I recall correctly, in our X350 the tach needle actually drops below 0 while cranking.

Have you had your car scanned for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)? It would be most helpful to have this done on a diagnostic system capable of reading not only the generic Powertrain (P) codes, but also the proprietary Jaguar Body (B), Chassis (C) and Undefined (U, mostly Network-related) codes. This means either a Jaguar dealer or an independent shop with the Jaguar system or a high-end third-party system with enhanced Jaguar capabilities. With symptoms like yours, it is quite likely that in addition to P codes you also have one or more relevant B and/or U codes stored. Please let us know all the codes that are stored exactly as they appear (for example, P0616, B1681, U2510, etc.).

Intermittent malfunctions can be the most difficult to diagnose, so any DTCs that have been flagged may be very helpful.

While you are preparing to have the car scanned for codes, it would certainly be worth cleaning the engine bay ground points, especially the one on the right inner fender near the cabin air microfilter housing. Also check for wet leaves and seeds below the microfilter housing that could indicate the ECM electrical connector has been wet due to a clogged water drain in that area. Also clean the battery power connections, including the two points where the negative cable connects to the body. Here are some photos showing how to clean ground points; note the warning about not overtightening the nuts:

Grounds / Earths Near Headlamps

Please let us know what codes are flagged and we'll try to help.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the assist and the move. The 200 RPM you mentioned looks to be for an XJ40 issue. It came up in my 'crankshaft position sensor' search and misread it's forum designation.

That said, it appears the Techron may have done the trick as it hasn't happened since I used it despite days with sub freezing weather. Three cranks tops and it starts right up. I've also noticed increased throttle response as an added bonus. I'm not a huge believer in liquid mechanics and this may just be masking a larger issue but for now I'm going to see how it goes. My nearest Jaguar dealer is awful and my local independent guy is always booked solid leaving me to either drive over an hour to another dealership or take matters into my own hands. Things like brakes, thermostats, hoses, belts, alternators etc are all within my wheelhouse but electrical gremlins have claimed my last two Jaguars and this latest one may be starting its death knell.