"cruise not available" 04 XJ...PLEASE HELP!
#1
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Hello All,
I just bought a pre-owned 04 XJR with 32k miles on it. It is gorgeous and in great shape, but it has one issue. On the info screen, it has a yellow light with the message "cruise not available", and another blinking yellow cruise light on the dash.
I don't use cruise that much, but I have to get rid of these lights or it will drive me nuts. I had someone look at the vacuum hoses, etc., but they believe it is electronically controlled in a module down by the firewall.
I am loathe to drive 1.5 hours to the nearest dealer where they will not only charge me an arm, but possibly a leg. I was hoping someone would have had a similar experience, and this is a quick fix with the right information.
Any wisdom would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance!
I just bought a pre-owned 04 XJR with 32k miles on it. It is gorgeous and in great shape, but it has one issue. On the info screen, it has a yellow light with the message "cruise not available", and another blinking yellow cruise light on the dash.
I don't use cruise that much, but I have to get rid of these lights or it will drive me nuts. I had someone look at the vacuum hoses, etc., but they believe it is electronically controlled in a module down by the firewall.
I am loathe to drive 1.5 hours to the nearest dealer where they will not only charge me an arm, but possibly a leg. I was hoping someone would have had a similar experience, and this is a quick fix with the right information.
Any wisdom would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance!
#2
#3
#4
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"Crusie not Available" is a protection mechanism designed into the system. The ECM controls a huge number of power train systems, some of which are pretty complex and linked together. When the ECM receives an input that is out of range (this could be any one or more of dozens of inputs) and under certain operating conditions designed into the system, one of the first protection mechanisms is to disable the cruise control. It does this because cruise control is a form of "auto pilot" and for safety reasons, it is better to have the driver in more control of the functions of the powertrain.
Now for a more succinct version, the yellow dash light/flashing light is indicating that some input the ECM is seeing is not within operating parameters. It is typically related to a fault code that can be read and analyzed. The fault might be anything from soup to nuts - could be a faulty wheel sensor
MAFS signal out of range
Maps out of range
Coolant temp sensor out of range
OK, I'm really guessing now. The code associated with the yellow flashing light needs to be read. As soon as that fault is diagnosed and repaired, the yellow light can be extinguished and the Cruise control feature will be reestablished.
Now for a more succinct version, the yellow dash light/flashing light is indicating that some input the ECM is seeing is not within operating parameters. It is typically related to a fault code that can be read and analyzed. The fault might be anything from soup to nuts - could be a faulty wheel sensor
MAFS signal out of range
Maps out of range
Coolant temp sensor out of range
OK, I'm really guessing now. The code associated with the yellow flashing light needs to be read. As soon as that fault is diagnosed and repaired, the yellow light can be extinguished and the Cruise control feature will be reestablished.
#5
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Nothing about it in the manual Frasor. I thought it might be a fuse, but it was OK.
Awesome Stevetech. THANK YOU for your expertise. I am going to get it in and have the code read.
Interesting that you said that "maps out of range". That sounds like it could relate to the navigation, and I bought it without a nav disc. Maybe that is the issue.
In any event, of the myriad of issues that could trigger this light, are there any that are very serious/expensive? Is it safe to drive the car until I get it checked?
Awesome Stevetech. THANK YOU for your expertise. I am going to get it in and have the code read.
Interesting that you said that "maps out of range". That sounds like it could relate to the navigation, and I bought it without a nav disc. Maybe that is the issue.
In any event, of the myriad of issues that could trigger this light, are there any that are very serious/expensive? Is it safe to drive the car until I get it checked?
#7
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UPDATE: Tried the Nav disc, and that didn't work. Not a nav issue.
Read else where that you can disconnect the battery by disconnecting the positive battery + & negative - terminals. Turn the ignition key several times to erase the computers memory. Reconect the battery + terminal and then - and start the car.
The fault code, will hopefully not return. I will give this a whirl and drop in another update.
Before I do, does anyone know if it is OK to disconnect the battery to reset the computer codes? Or could it cause more problems than it is worth?
Read else where that you can disconnect the battery by disconnecting the positive battery + & negative - terminals. Turn the ignition key several times to erase the computers memory. Reconect the battery + terminal and then - and start the car.
The fault code, will hopefully not return. I will give this a whirl and drop in another update.
Before I do, does anyone know if it is OK to disconnect the battery to reset the computer codes? Or could it cause more problems than it is worth?
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UPDATE: I disconnected the battery overnight, and no ill effects on the radio. But it did NOT clear the cruise not available message, and I got a NEW message (lucky me) of "apply park brake". Super. I have to bring it in.
IMPORTANT NOTE when disconnecting battery: When you do it you will have the shock of your life when you close your trunk and realize that you cannot open it again because it is a POWER trunk. Before panic sets in (as it did for me) and you are considering all of the ways to get this car towed to a dealer, you need to know that there is a little slot above your license plate where you can insert and turn your car key. This will pop the trunk. And hopefully keep someone from reading this from having a panic attack.
IMPORTANT NOTE when disconnecting battery: When you do it you will have the shock of your life when you close your trunk and realize that you cannot open it again because it is a POWER trunk. Before panic sets in (as it did for me) and you are considering all of the ways to get this car towed to a dealer, you need to know that there is a little slot above your license plate where you can insert and turn your car key. This will pop the trunk. And hopefully keep someone from reading this from having a panic attack.
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deaconknowgood (02-13-2014)
#12
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[quote=jagster;240227]Hello All,
On my 03 x-type 2.5. Same message. came on at start up and stop lites. Pulled codes, BOTH banks LEAN. mine also has a RPM limiter @28k SO I found a 2 inch split in the PVC hose Bingo, vac leak.At start up and idle there is high vac. so it sucked it open other wise it ran fine.Replaced hose, lights out life is good!
On my 03 x-type 2.5. Same message. came on at start up and stop lites. Pulled codes, BOTH banks LEAN. mine also has a RPM limiter @28k SO I found a 2 inch split in the PVC hose Bingo, vac leak.At start up and idle there is high vac. so it sucked it open other wise it ran fine.Replaced hose, lights out life is good!
#13
#14
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OK guys, I got the codes read.
P1696 CAN link adaptive speed control fail.
U2515 CAN adaptive speed control message missing.
P1582 Flight Recorder data is stored if any of 5 conditions occur...all of these 5 conditions should disable the car so you can't drive it, but the car is running fine.
The mechanic told me that the ASCM (adaptive speed control module) may be bad, and a replacement could cost north of $4000.
This would be a nightmare. The worst thing is he isn't exactly positive what it needs. It could take hundreds of dollars to diagnose.
If anyone here could give me some insight, I would greatly appreciate it. I may have the option of taking it back. Is this bad enough that I should take this option?
P1696 CAN link adaptive speed control fail.
U2515 CAN adaptive speed control message missing.
P1582 Flight Recorder data is stored if any of 5 conditions occur...all of these 5 conditions should disable the car so you can't drive it, but the car is running fine.
The mechanic told me that the ASCM (adaptive speed control module) may be bad, and a replacement could cost north of $4000.
This would be a nightmare. The worst thing is he isn't exactly positive what it needs. It could take hundreds of dollars to diagnose.
If anyone here could give me some insight, I would greatly appreciate it. I may have the option of taking it back. Is this bad enough that I should take this option?
#15
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Before Spending 4k I MYSELF WOULD -( 1)-ohm out each wheel sensor and check the reluctor disk for debre (2-) (ask stevetech about this) clear the codes unplug each wheel sensor one at a time (clearing codes each time) to see if you get a DIFFERENT code. At least eliminate the wheel sensors. If the ascm isn't bad it could be or is getting a bad or no signal. (3) subscribe to ALDATA on line for $24.00 and it will give you a wealth of info( sensor inputs, values and trouble shooting, diagrams). I have used it for three cars and has saved me thousands.$24.00 per year, 2nd car for $14.00 per year.
I haven't got it for my X type yet because I didn't need it YET. If I am off base with this I am sure somebody will tag me out,(baseball humor).
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#16
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Great information again billbjork! ALDATA is a great suggestion. Thank you.
I am going to spend the money and have the mechanic spend a few hours diagnosing it. I will bring this and other information for them to use.
If anyone has any information on those codes above, that would be incredibly helpful. Stevetech can you help me?
Further research has shown me that is could also be a brake switch possibly.
I am hoping that publicly documenting my progress on this issue will help other people on one or all of these issues I am experiencing. I appreciate everyone's help that has posted here.
I am going to spend the money and have the mechanic spend a few hours diagnosing it. I will bring this and other information for them to use.
If anyone has any information on those codes above, that would be incredibly helpful. Stevetech can you help me?
Further research has shown me that is could also be a brake switch possibly.
I am hoping that publicly documenting my progress on this issue will help other people on one or all of these issues I am experiencing. I appreciate everyone's help that has posted here.
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