did the arnott conversion last night
#1
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took about 5 hours --but cleaned the wheels and fender liners --initial observations --car seems a little higher --hints and tips --on front take tie-rod link completely off ---not just 1 end --on rear --get a large friend to push suspension down to install shock to suspension -------all in all not a bad job at all---will try to compair ride later ----------have access to 3 04's to test ---but with different wheel sizes
#2
#3
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the lower shock connection is just a large bolt with a tourqe head --a large one -------try to use heat to loosen it -or a 1/2 inch rachet with a breaker bar----also they say loosen sway bar connecting link --i found taking it off completly give more room
Last edited by mark campbell; 07-22-2013 at 05:02 AM.
#5
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Thanks for the info Mark. I've used an entire 14 oz. bottle of a propane torch with absolutely no luck. Even though I ran both ends through several long cycles of heating and cooling as well as a couple of attempts with a long heating cycle followed immediately with an application of ice to cause it to rapidly contract and hopefully break loose. Still no joy. I've used a 1/2" drive impact wrench running 125 lbs. with a couple of reversing tries to also try to crack it loose with no positive results as well as having bathed it several times with liberal applications of PB Blaster.
That damned internal rubber bushing just absorbs the impact wrench and I can't apply backing torque with a pry bar at the same time due to only having two hands and two feet<G> With a couple more appendages I could probably heat it, cool it, wrench it, and pry it all a the same time<G><G>
#6
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sorry about your trouble-------for loosening try kroil or aero kroil it is the best ---------also go to a tire shop --they have large equipment --they can put a lot more air volume to an air rachet----i see your in fla so i'm guessing you have little or no rust -again sorry for your hard time
#7
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Well as I stated I finally enlisted the aid of my local shop that has helped me several times over the past 5+ years. They were able to get the lower shock bolt loose since their tools can produce 1000 ft. lbs. of torque. It took that 60 torx bolt and spun it into next week without having to cut it or destroy the bushing. That enabled them to be able to install the new Arnott rebuilt air shock very quickly.
I also had them install the new rear brake pads that I had purchased earlier since it made sense to aching knees to have them do it while it was on their lift. They also replaced the lower front ball joint dust cover that I had supplied. I had two of these universal type that I wanted to try since I had a couple of covers that were going bad. I think they'll do a great job as once installed they seal very tightly at both ends. I had cleaned the ball and socket portion thoroughly and loaded the replacement covers with wheel bearing grease which is a high heat resistant high viscosity grease and should do the job nicely.
The whole deal including a brake bleed to get some residual air out of the system only set me back $150.00 which I think is as reasonable as one could hope for. Now I just have to clear out some persistent warning messages and codes, retrain a couple of programmable features because I had disconnected the battery during my efforts, and go on to the next project.
Total cost so far to rebuild the suspension compressor, replace a bad air shock, recover two bad ball joint covers, and install new brake pads all around comes to just a hair over $1000.00. That includes over $230 in rental car expense so my wife had transportation while I was working on the car! The Jag dealer in Tampa wanted $1300 in parts and labor (plus sales taxes and bogus fees) to replace just the ONE shock with exactly the same one I bought from Arnott. Profit is one thing but rape is something else entirely.
In fact I could have replaced all 4 air shocks for about $1400 using the rebuilt Arnott's that have a lifetime warranty.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and when I have to replace the rest it will be much easier as a result.
I also had them install the new rear brake pads that I had purchased earlier since it made sense to aching knees to have them do it while it was on their lift. They also replaced the lower front ball joint dust cover that I had supplied. I had two of these universal type that I wanted to try since I had a couple of covers that were going bad. I think they'll do a great job as once installed they seal very tightly at both ends. I had cleaned the ball and socket portion thoroughly and loaded the replacement covers with wheel bearing grease which is a high heat resistant high viscosity grease and should do the job nicely.
The whole deal including a brake bleed to get some residual air out of the system only set me back $150.00 which I think is as reasonable as one could hope for. Now I just have to clear out some persistent warning messages and codes, retrain a couple of programmable features because I had disconnected the battery during my efforts, and go on to the next project.
Total cost so far to rebuild the suspension compressor, replace a bad air shock, recover two bad ball joint covers, and install new brake pads all around comes to just a hair over $1000.00. That includes over $230 in rental car expense so my wife had transportation while I was working on the car! The Jag dealer in Tampa wanted $1300 in parts and labor (plus sales taxes and bogus fees) to replace just the ONE shock with exactly the same one I bought from Arnott. Profit is one thing but rape is something else entirely.
In fact I could have replaced all 4 air shocks for about $1400 using the rebuilt Arnott's that have a lifetime warranty.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and when I have to replace the rest it will be much easier as a result.
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#9
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Mark I bought the dust covers from the local NAPA store. they were on one of those tall rotating display racks that hold all kinds of misc. body attaching hardware parts, replacement turning signal switches, etc. Their part # was 6501175 described as NOE...dus/boot and priced at $2.69 @. They are available in at least two different sizes depending upon the diameter of the threaded lower portion. either 1/2" or 5/8". They are not accordioned and don't appear too flexible but they don't need to be. The lower lip gets caught between the steering knuckle and a wide ring like portion of the joint itself and the upper portion gets sealed against the upper A-arm. The lower one towards the back, although with a smaller diameter (it appears as I didn't measure that one) is trapped in the same way although it is upside down. Not factory but better then nothing and I really do think they will extend the joint life immeasurably.
#10
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took about 5 hours --but cleaned the wheels and fender liners --initial observations --car seems a little higher --hints and tips --on front take tie-rod link completely off ---not just 1 end --on rear --get a large friend to push suspension down to install shock to suspension -------all in all not a bad job at all---will try to compair ride later ----------have access to 3 04's to test ---but with different wheel sizes
#11
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well there is a slight problem -----the car has salvaged title--hail damage ---------car is great-----but i do need to have it inspected --the system here in georgia had a shake up last year --so i decided to use the state inspectors this time --almost 3 months ago --well any day now --but it will be a good test when i do it --i drive 20 + miles each way to work --------and go to lunch a few days a week with 4-5 guys---so we will see
#12
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well fially got the ok from the great republic of georgia ---got my tag 12/26--the ride i can not tell a difference -------------monday took 2 co-workers to lunch -1 said he could tell a difference not bad ---but not as plush -------------today had a full load 5 of us --same 2 plus 2 others -both new guys said the same not as plush ---------they still love the ride just they can tell a diff-------also 1 guy noticed--the car used to level with a load
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