A "different" air suspension question
#1
A "different" air suspension question
04 XJ8 Wife reported that at lunch time she got a "air suspension" message that was still there while driving home. After a 30 mile drive it was replaced by a "car too low" and she felt the car bottoming as she arrived home. This morning.... same. Car is bottomed.
This car had a leaky shock replaced 5 months ago. The time it took to get a shock installed caused the compressor to give up. I replaced it with an Arnott unit, again 5 months ago.
Of course it's possible that a 5 month old compressor gave up but are there other possibilities? Maybe electronics? I don't own a scanning tool or software so I have to diagnose this through educated guess.
I can hear the compressor after startup. It seems to go on for a minute, sounds like it's trying to lift the car then gives up shortly. This tells me that the relay and comp. both are doing something. But has anyone had experience with susp. module telling the hardware the wrong thing to do? Or should I just order a replacement pump? I kind of need to make a decision quickly as this is her (only) daily driver. But of course the wrong decision wouldn't help much, would it?
This car had a leaky shock replaced 5 months ago. The time it took to get a shock installed caused the compressor to give up. I replaced it with an Arnott unit, again 5 months ago.
Of course it's possible that a 5 month old compressor gave up but are there other possibilities? Maybe electronics? I don't own a scanning tool or software so I have to diagnose this through educated guess.
I can hear the compressor after startup. It seems to go on for a minute, sounds like it's trying to lift the car then gives up shortly. This tells me that the relay and comp. both are doing something. But has anyone had experience with susp. module telling the hardware the wrong thing to do? Or should I just order a replacement pump? I kind of need to make a decision quickly as this is her (only) daily driver. But of course the wrong decision wouldn't help much, would it?
#3
Hmmm. I will have to start it up again tonight and again see if I can hear a leak anywhere. I did this morning but I didn't think I heard anything. I did hear something but chalked it up to one shock trying to inflate. Not sure now....
Last time when the rear shock leaked you could hear it as long as you were on the same side of the car. It actually blew out the accordion seal. Would as big a leak as you suggest be obvious or can they go "unheard"?
Last time when the rear shock leaked you could hear it as long as you were on the same side of the car. It actually blew out the accordion seal. Would as big a leak as you suggest be obvious or can they go "unheard"?
#4
Good call tarheal. A rear spring. I tested each shock per SteveTech's advice. Disconnecting and plugging the line at each spring at a time. The car lifted when the left rear was disconnected. Then I listened with it hooked back up and sure enough....
This beast takes a c2c23697 (early 2004) and I searched for a used part. Not much luck. Anyone have some good search suggestions? I really can't afford the factory part right now.
This beast takes a c2c23697 (early 2004) and I searched for a used part. Not much luck. Anyone have some good search suggestions? I really can't afford the factory part right now.
#5
ARNOTTE INDUSTRIES (I think that's how you spell It) here in Fl sells rebuilt air springs for Jags. They are the only ones I know of but there may be others. Do an internet search or a search of this forum and you will turn them up.
Their charge is based on a core exchange and comes out to less than half of OEM price. I have a shop here that does Jag only service using customer supplied parts if necessary. Perhaps you have a similar relationship where you live or you'r up for a DIY. If you follow Stevetechs steps you won't even have to recal the height setting---software only avail at dealer or Jag speciality shops that have made the investment.
Now lets hope that your compressor has survived all this recent trama.
Their charge is based on a core exchange and comes out to less than half of OEM price. I have a shop here that does Jag only service using customer supplied parts if necessary. Perhaps you have a similar relationship where you live or you'r up for a DIY. If you follow Stevetechs steps you won't even have to recal the height setting---software only avail at dealer or Jag speciality shops that have made the investment.
Now lets hope that your compressor has survived all this recent trama.
Last edited by user 2029223; 07-30-2010 at 11:23 AM. Reason: last thought
#6
Thanks again. I know about Arnott. I think I was the first to link to them. Very sadly, they don't list a rear spring. Only 2 different fronts and the compressor. They only wanted $399 for fronts. And yes it will be a DIY. I've already done the other rear 6 months ago and it was easy. Lastly compresor.... it only developed this leak on the last 30 mile trip. And the car only hit the "vehicle low" light in the last mile. So I don't think the compressor was overworked this time. Thx again.
If anyone sees a used one on Ebay or other, please feel free.......
If anyone sees a used one on Ebay or other, please feel free.......
#7
Thanks again. I know about Arnott. I think I was the first to link to them. Very sadly, they don't list a rear spring. Only 2 different fronts and the compressor. They only wanted $399 for fronts. And yes it will be a DIY. I've already done the other rear 6 months ago and it was easy. Lastly compresor.... it only developed this leak on the last 30 mile trip. And the car only hit the "vehicle low" light in the last mile. So I don't think the compressor was overworked this time. Thx again.
If anyone sees a used one on Ebay or other, please feel free.......
If anyone sees a used one on Ebay or other, please feel free.......
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#8
Too late. Already ordered a junkyard strut. $250 incl shipping so I'm happy. Installed last night. Other than needing the strength of a gorilla to get the new part in place and compress it enough to fasten the bottom end.... it went well. Took two engine start cycles to pump up the system completely as it was sitting on the stops because of my disconnecting all shocks to diagnose. As Clouseau would say "The case she is sol-ved". Thanks to all who guided.
#9
Woe is me. Replaced the rear. Two days later the car is bottomed sitting in the garage in the morning. Lost a front strut. Massive leak. I think that when it bottomed before it tore a seal or something. Now I have to go for another strut. At least I can use Arnott as they claim to have rebuilt fronts.
#12
Got a front replacement from Arnott. (BTW Salesman said they do not sell rears).
Per request: (metric numbers are wrench sizes for convenience)
1) Loosened lugnuts.
2) Removed 3 upper strut bolts (13mm), loosened the 4th. Disconnected elec plug. Removed air fitting (12mm).
3) Jacked up offending corner by the frame. This is important. Don't jack by suspension as you will have to play with height between them.
4) Remove wheel
5) Remove Lower strut bolt (Tx60).
6) Loosen swaybar to dogbone nut but leave engaged 2 turns. Remove lower dogbone nut.
7) Put a stand or blocks under brake rotor (careful not to catch the sheet metal shield).
8) Play with jack til swaybar link is movable (i.e. not under great load). When manageable, remove swarbar to dogbone (13mm & maybe 6mm Allen in bolt end) and dogbone itself (15mm nut / 13mm bolt).
9) Remove 2 bolts holding ride height sensor (10mm) and let the sensor just hang.
9) Jack up til wheel just hangs above the blocks. Remove upper wishbone (18mm nut / 6mm allen in bolt end).
9) Remove last upper strut bolt.
10) Wrestle the strut out by pulling on the upper part of the suspension knuckle to give clearance. When you can clear the y shaped yoke, pull the bottom of the strut backwards being careful not to damage the brake lines / wire harness. This is the worst part.
Install = opposite
Note: By disconnecting the sensor I feel I did not change the orientation of the ride hight sensor because of the way I disconnected it. The car has not complained that I didn't take it to Jags $80,000 diagnostic machine to recalibrate but I don't thin I should have to.
I would like input about this method of handling the sensor. Also if I have missed or misinformed, please correct me. Just trying to be helpful as others have on this board.
I know it's saved me thousands so far.
Per request: (metric numbers are wrench sizes for convenience)
1) Loosened lugnuts.
2) Removed 3 upper strut bolts (13mm), loosened the 4th. Disconnected elec plug. Removed air fitting (12mm).
3) Jacked up offending corner by the frame. This is important. Don't jack by suspension as you will have to play with height between them.
4) Remove wheel
5) Remove Lower strut bolt (Tx60).
6) Loosen swaybar to dogbone nut but leave engaged 2 turns. Remove lower dogbone nut.
7) Put a stand or blocks under brake rotor (careful not to catch the sheet metal shield).
8) Play with jack til swaybar link is movable (i.e. not under great load). When manageable, remove swarbar to dogbone (13mm & maybe 6mm Allen in bolt end) and dogbone itself (15mm nut / 13mm bolt).
9) Remove 2 bolts holding ride height sensor (10mm) and let the sensor just hang.
9) Jack up til wheel just hangs above the blocks. Remove upper wishbone (18mm nut / 6mm allen in bolt end).
9) Remove last upper strut bolt.
10) Wrestle the strut out by pulling on the upper part of the suspension knuckle to give clearance. When you can clear the y shaped yoke, pull the bottom of the strut backwards being careful not to damage the brake lines / wire harness. This is the worst part.
Install = opposite
Note: By disconnecting the sensor I feel I did not change the orientation of the ride hight sensor because of the way I disconnected it. The car has not complained that I didn't take it to Jags $80,000 diagnostic machine to recalibrate but I don't thin I should have to.
I would like input about this method of handling the sensor. Also if I have missed or misinformed, please correct me. Just trying to be helpful as others have on this board.
I know it's saved me thousands so far.
#13
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