Diy air spring leak diagnosis
#41
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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Brutal or u102768, you may know the answer to this. For the Rangie I bought an OBDII/USb data cable off ebay for about $45, and downloaded the free software that came with it to work on the Rangie's air suspension. It enables me to read (and adjust the height of) the sensors & just about everything else including fault resets from my laptop. Can you buy the same thing for Jags?
IMO, well worth the investment if you can.
Cheers,
Languid
#42
Still waiting for a comment from Languid about these temp cutouts. I am holding a brush block in my hand. If it's there it is invisible and wireless.
#43
Not many, because Murray generally throws them out as duds. The brush mount I threw in the recycling bin yesterday had a small black chip on it through which the (earth?) wire ran. That chip is a solid state thermal switch.
However, something has occurred to me: the US market cars do have a number of differences to cars we get here in both mechanicals & electronics, & that may be one of them. I do know that the Japanese Imports we compete with in NZ have many different electronics & even dash & trim variations to ours. VIN's provide some clues, but not all the answers. They are excellent for the country of market, but outside of the particular market it can be very difficult to obtain answers. Jap market cars are quite different to Hong Kong market cars even though the two countries are quite close to each other. The Aus, HK, & NZ cars are the same except for a modification made in Aus by the distributor before delivery.
I'm not going to pull the compressor off the Daimler to look, because it has only 67,600kms on it, but I have noticed two different brand names on the compressors. One is Wabco, & the other is Thomas. I didn't look at the name on the one I stripped threw out, & since the bin is bloody great Jumbo that has been sitting out in about 500mm to 600mm of rain this past week, it can stay there.
Cheers,
Languid
#44
MK 82,
Not many, because Murray generally throws them out as duds. The brush mount I threw in the recycling bin yesterday had a small black chip on it through which the (earth?) wire ran. That chip is a solid state thermal switch.
However, something has occurred to me: the US market cars do have a number of differences to cars we get here in both mechanicals & electronics, & that may be one of them.
Languid
Not many, because Murray generally throws them out as duds. The brush mount I threw in the recycling bin yesterday had a small black chip on it through which the (earth?) wire ran. That chip is a solid state thermal switch.
However, something has occurred to me: the US market cars do have a number of differences to cars we get here in both mechanicals & electronics, & that may be one of them.
Languid
The problem is that more than once you have warned folks of the possible failure of this thermal device when I have been unable to find it through physical inspection and perusing the schematics. I am sure you don't want people looking for a non existent device and wasting their time.
Once again, I cannot equivocally state it does not exist but I sure as blazes can't find it. The black ground wire in connector EC60 dissappears up into the loom to an unseen ground. It would have to be on the block somewhere to sense the correct temp.
Cheers
#45
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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oh my GOD Eddie, Did you just join the "whimpification" of America with your new sig
That Wabco and Lanquids explanation of 2 suppliers make sense, because I dont recall seeing a Wabco ASM in a jag Ive had the pleasure of accessing or replacing. I just never said anything about it and assumed a variation.
That Wabco and Lanquids explanation of 2 suppliers make sense, because I dont recall seeing a Wabco ASM in a jag Ive had the pleasure of accessing or replacing. I just never said anything about it and assumed a variation.
#46
Well with all the air spring question and how to diag questions that come up not only here, but shops cant seem to get it right either.
I made individual test and air fitting with gauges. You screw them (if you make 4) in the air spring tops after you remove the air line. Then you fill them up with compressed air with an air chuck just like you fill a tire. I take them up to 100-125 psi and then watch to see if they go down. You have to make sure that they dont leak in the top where they screw in. use a bubble solution to check and teflon tape. I built these with brass fittings 1/8" pipe thread, gauges, and screw in schraeder valves, all sealed with teflon. The front takes a plain 1/8" pipe thread into the fronts, and the fittings you see on the second set are actually the front spring fitting taken out and these screw into the rear ports that have different thread sizes. This takes almost all the guess work out of determining how many of your air springs are leaking and how fast. The Jaguar way can even lead to misdiagnosis cause you measure height of each wheel arch to the ground. 1 air spring dropping will also pull down and lower the rest of the car front or rear. SO you dont know if that corner is leaking too, just less, or not at all. Ive thought about making more and selling, but I dont know they can be alittle pricey and a hassle to get all the parts and ship but who knows. If I get enough request I might. Another note is that Ive never ever seen lines leaking. Always air springs or new compressors that people didnt pay attantion to the air line fitting and proper sealing. 99% are always the air spring and predominatly behind the bellows where the lower seal seals against the shock body.
I made individual test and air fitting with gauges. You screw them (if you make 4) in the air spring tops after you remove the air line. Then you fill them up with compressed air with an air chuck just like you fill a tire. I take them up to 100-125 psi and then watch to see if they go down. You have to make sure that they dont leak in the top where they screw in. use a bubble solution to check and teflon tape. I built these with brass fittings 1/8" pipe thread, gauges, and screw in schraeder valves, all sealed with teflon. The front takes a plain 1/8" pipe thread into the fronts, and the fittings you see on the second set are actually the front spring fitting taken out and these screw into the rear ports that have different thread sizes. This takes almost all the guess work out of determining how many of your air springs are leaking and how fast. The Jaguar way can even lead to misdiagnosis cause you measure height of each wheel arch to the ground. 1 air spring dropping will also pull down and lower the rest of the car front or rear. SO you dont know if that corner is leaking too, just less, or not at all. Ive thought about making more and selling, but I dont know they can be alittle pricey and a hassle to get all the parts and ship but who knows. If I get enough request I might. Another note is that Ive never ever seen lines leaking. Always air springs or new compressors that people didnt pay attantion to the air line fitting and proper sealing. 99% are always the air spring and predominatly behind the bellows where the lower seal seals against the shock body.
#47
Maybe a silly question but would having two front height sensors instead of one impact on the methodology of measuring and possibly reprogramming height level?
Btw, I searched in the forum but was unable to find from which VIN the XJ04 has lost the two front sensors to keep only one. Could somebody give the tip?
Thx
Btw, I searched in the forum but was unable to find from which VIN the XJ04 has lost the two front sensors to keep only one. Could somebody give the tip?
Thx
#48
I finally found that info:
The RH front sensor was deleted from VIN G26873.
If it can help others...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ent-faq-35024/
The RH front sensor was deleted from VIN G26873.
If it can help others...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ent-faq-35024/
#49
Brutal:
that was an excellent idea, you came up with, did you have to buy the pipe, air gauge, etc..., all from one supplier, or different ones, I'm thinking of starting with the front, two setups, I take it the front thread is 1/8" npt, but the back thread is not npt, and if its not , then is it standard or metric, much appreciated since you already did all the hard work.
that was an excellent idea, you came up with, did you have to buy the pipe, air gauge, etc..., all from one supplier, or different ones, I'm thinking of starting with the front, two setups, I take it the front thread is 1/8" npt, but the back thread is not npt, and if its not , then is it standard or metric, much appreciated since you already did all the hard work.
#50
brutal,
when you have a chance It would be much helpful if you give me some specs about the thread kind, I mean the front is 1/8" , but there is npt and bsp type,and also what did you have to reduce for the shraeder in the 1/8" tee. I see you put a reducer there, also what type of the thread is the shraeder.
Your response is much appreciated!
when you have a chance It would be much helpful if you give me some specs about the thread kind, I mean the front is 1/8" , but there is npt and bsp type,and also what did you have to reduce for the shraeder in the 1/8" tee. I see you put a reducer there, also what type of the thread is the shraeder.
Your response is much appreciated!
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