I have a 2004 XJR, and have found the lower shock bushes to be toasted, and producing the same sound you describe. I also have an oil leak on the front contraol arm inner (larger bushing). I decided to replace every suspension bushing while I was at it, but I am having a hard time with the ball joint connecting the front control arm to the steering knuckle. I do not want to damage the rubber boot, so a pickle fork seems the wrong approach. The ball joint separators I see advertised appear to have too small of an opening at the ball end (3/4 inch, when it looks like I need 5/4 inch). I have considered a Pittman puller, and I saw someone whacking the side of the knuckle on TV, which might be fine for steel, but scares me for aluminum alloy. I considered a blowtorch for applying heat, but that will melt the boot and its grease. Maybe the boiling water trick? Any helpful suggestions to save my knuckle and its ball joint?

 

Boiling water, plus a bit of penetrating oil, maybe ? You can safety whack the securing nut after it has been unturned to hide the balljoint stud, because this nut must be replaced, being a Nyloc type. I would certainly not whack the upright as it is aluminium as you say, and could initiate a crack.

 

Thanks. I found that with a decent lamp, I was actually measuring the boot diameter, not the tapered shaft. With a screw driver, I could move the boot just enough to get a ball joint separator in there (not a pickle fork). What I did was put some penetrating oil on and let it sit a while. I put good pressure on the separator, and let that sit. Then repeated a couple of times until finally it popped free, like a gun shot. I will definitely be using anti-freeze on the taper when I reassemble. Here is some lessons learned so far that might help others:

1. Rock Auto had what appeared to be all the bushings needed for my 2004 XJR. They do not have the upper wishbone ones, but mine look fine. Turns out that their web site has some bad descriptions, though, and I suggested they refer to the straight or the curved connecting arm to fix that. The Deeza JA-R601 looks good for the lower shock bushing, as advertised. But, the Beck/Arnley part 1017517 and the Deeza JA-R203 (supposedly confirmed by Deeza to be the same as the JA-R601) do NOT work for the front (curved) connecting arm. They are similar, apparently the right diameter, but 5/16ths inch too short. I did not want to try using washers to fill the space, but I guess one could do that. Maybe they are the same for another chassis, but not for my XJR.
2. The Welsh people sell refurbished curved arms, but only replace the frame end (larger) bushing, so you get a used bushing at one end, though Welsh only recycles servicable ones. They have yet to find anyone who makes a replacement for the end that connects to the steering knuckle. Bummer! If that bushing ever rots, at the price of the shock bushings, I might try using them and adding spacers before trying a new arm. The diameters of the two are the same.
3. Getting to the sway bar D bushings on this car cannot be done as with an XK, from above. That is because there is a bar that obstructs the forward clamp bolts. Doing the job either requires removing the radiator OR, as I observe with all the other suspension parts removed: by removing the plastic wheel well liner, you can get in from the sides! The bar that is in the way has two bolts at either end. It looks like you can easily remove them and get that bar out of the way. I'll try that while I am waiting to get the new bushings pressed in, and report the saga here.

On my vehicle, the shock bushings appear to be the source of the clunking noise. I have an oil leak on the curved arm frame end (large) bushing, passenger side. The rest look old, but okay, though I will be replacing them all. Except, of course, the knuckle end bushings on the curved arm, unless someone has found a source. ????

 

I meant to say anti-SEIZE (compound), not anti-freeze. But, I suspect you all caught that!

 

Yes, quite likely, as these bushes last no time at all, compared to the others. Not surprising when you consider that the four lower shock bushes together take the full weight of the car !!

 

I had the same noise. Turns out to be the shock tower bushing on the top of the inner fender in the engine compartment. I replaced mine with rubber ones. Do a search as these metal housings that sandwich the bushing are a bear to get split and back together.

 

I had a clonk on the front right side of my 2004 XJR. I could not find any loose suspension parts and replaced the air shock with an Arnott replacement. That was the problem. Prior to purchase, the Arnott tech suggested that the hydraulic shock (it is part of the air shock) could be defective, so I took a gamble and replaced the air shock assembly.

RyeJag