Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix
#1
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Just wanted to post my fix for the oxidation problems with the drip rail, door trim/molding. This fix cost less than 20.00 and the results were awesome.
1. Deaden high quality automotive masking tape. (green masking tape)
2. Apply the masking tape to the car.
3. With 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper sand the the trim with water.
4. Dry off the trim and sand again, dry this time.
5. With "Mothers" brand Aluminum polish, polish the trim.
6. Remove the polish with a clean terry cloth rag.
7. Remove the tape and you're done!
This fix took my wife and I about 30 minutes per side and most of that was taping to protect the painted surfaces.
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0285.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75785d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0285.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0292.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75786d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0292.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0295.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75787d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0295.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0300.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75788d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0300.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0307.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75789d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0307.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0308.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75790d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0308.jpg)
1. Deaden high quality automotive masking tape. (green masking tape)
2. Apply the masking tape to the car.
3. With 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper sand the the trim with water.
4. Dry off the trim and sand again, dry this time.
5. With "Mothers" brand Aluminum polish, polish the trim.
6. Remove the polish with a clean terry cloth rag.
7. Remove the tape and you're done!
This fix took my wife and I about 30 minutes per side and most of that was taping to protect the painted surfaces.
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0285.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75785d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0285.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0292.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75786d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0292.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0295.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75787d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0295.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0300.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75788d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0300.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0307.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75789d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0307.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0308.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75790d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0308.jpg)
![Door trim/molding drip rail oxidation fix-img_0312.jpg](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/75791d1480971709t-door-trim-molding-drip-rail-oxidation-fix-img_0312.jpg)
The following 10 users liked this post by yourplce92:
Clamdigger (03-14-2014),
Don B (03-13-2014),
geberhardt (10-27-2014),
lcmjaguar (03-12-2014),
motofreak72 (03-13-2014),
and 5 others liked this post.
#5
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Very cool! Thanks for the step by step. Mine as well as my wifes needs attention and Ive tried everything but sandpaper. 1 Question though... should this trim have a coating on it after this is done? It looks like there's one there now so if that's the case will it corrode/fade quicker? Any recommendations if so?
#7
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Very cool! Thanks for the step by step. Mine as well as my wifes needs attention and Ive tried everything but sandpaper. 1 Question though... should this trim have a coating on it after this is done? It looks like there's one there now so if that's the case will it corrode/fade quicker? Any recommendations if so?
Last edited by yourplce92; 03-13-2014 at 02:20 PM.
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#10
#11
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You will not believe the many uses for WD40. One of them is oxidation on aluminum. Simply take a small cloth, wrap around your finger, spray with WD40, wipe the trim, stand back in awe. It took you 5 minutes. I did mine and could not believe the differance. Google, uses for WD40
#12
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I just did my window trim on my S-type with the WD-40. It looks great now but how long will the deep shine last? I'm just curious. I guess I can apply it as often as I do the armorall on my front lower bumper black plastic cowling. I've tried about everything to get it to stay the deep/black original finish with no luck. The the products I've tried only last a few days.
Thanks for the tip on the WD-40 aluminum polishing.
Thanks for the tip on the WD-40 aluminum polishing.
#13
#14
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You will not believe the many uses for WD40. One of them is oxidation on aluminum. Simply take a small cloth, wrap around your finger, spray with WD40, wipe the trim, stand back in awe. It took you 5 minutes. I did mine and could not believe the differance. Google, uses for WD40
Used carefully as joeglow42 recommends, WD40 is probably fine for cleaning anodized aluminum. But I've increasingly come to believe that the use of WD40 around a modern automobile should be very limited.
WD40 is petroleum-based and many plastics and rubbers can be damaged over time by petroleum products. According to the WD40 website, "Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastics are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD40." That doesn't sound too bad, until you begin to count all the things on a car that are made of polycarbonate (chrome-plated plastic trim, headlamp lenses, plastic parts that require strength or impact resistance, etc.) and polystyrene (virtually any other plastic part in the car, including lamp lenses, instrument cluster lenses, radio & NAV panels, decorative interior trim, etc.).
WD40 is not the best lubricant for virtually any job you can think of. The WD stands for "Water Displacement," and the trace of petroleum oil it leaves behind to displace water tends to not provide much lubricity or durability. If you use it on a squeaking door hinge, the hinge will be squeaking again in a month.
Lithium grease is safer for plastics (and probably rubbers as well);
Dielectric grease is better for water displacement;
Liquid Wrench is better as a penetrant / rust breaker;
Zero-Residue Electrical Contact Cleaner won't leave behind an oily film that can add resistance to sensitive circuits like those for MAFS, O2 sensors and Throttle Position Sensors;
For anodized aluminum I've used a specially-designed polish from Autosol that I really like:
#1920 - Autosol Anodized Aluminum Polish - 75ml Tube
They also make an aluminum protective oil which I have not tried because I haven't been able to confirm that it is petroleum free:
#1810 - Autosol Aluminum Protective Oil - 400ml
BTW, Autosol also makes an excellent rubber treatment that keeps door weatherstrip supple and prevents seals from sticking together in freezing temperatures:
#6501 - Autosol Rubber Care (Gummi-Pflege) - 75ml
My two cents! Let the flames begin! :-)
Cheers,
Don
The following users liked this post:
joeldietzjr (02-03-2015)
#15
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H'mmm, my car has plastic coated aluminum trim. I have tried everything in this forum and nothing works. Thinking of painting it black like a few XJ8s in Japan.
#16
#17
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I just did it to my trim and then went through an automated car wash with no change to the shine level. This is a trick that I brought over from my motorcycle detailing days. On the bikes giving it a polish with mothers once a month kept the aluminum parts nice and bright for years. Again I didn't go all the way through the anodized finish, just deep enough to reach a level of shine that was acceptable to me and the wife. We just purchased our xj8 out of New Jersey and the trim was horrible. Our s type is a 2000 model but has never seen salt as it has always been a southern car, and it's trim still looks new. While I'm sure the wd 40 trick works for the short term my approach will last through a wash or rain storm and not hurt any part of the car. Even if you have to sand all the way to bare aluminum, aluminum shines when polished.
#18
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While researching for another thread, I came across this interesting short article at the Popular Mechanics website, entitled "WD40 vs. The World."
WD-40 Oil Alternatives - The Case Against WD-40 - Popular Mechanics
Cheers,
Don
WD-40 Oil Alternatives - The Case Against WD-40 - Popular Mechanics
Cheers,
Don
#19
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Another polish that works exceptionally well is Truck Box Polish ( don't know the exact brand). It is available at Lowe's in the area that the truck tool boxes are sold. I use it on aluminum, stainless and whatever else might come along. On aluminum it produces a very nice shine with a minimum of work. It produces the same result on most other materials I've used it on. It's not cheap--- $14 for a bottle, but it's an essential part of my cleaning supplies.
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Don B (03-16-2014)
#20